Hello from Australia! Brand new to Miras and just purchased a L500

yeah either will work :slight_smile:

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Great! Thank you for all the help.

hyundai excel x2 rear shocks is the shocks you want that work well.
here’s an old crappy vid from years ago to help modify them and get them in your car. They are also shorter so work better with lowered springs but I have had them in with stock springs before also.

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Yeah I will definitely look at doing that in the future. What’s the reason for needing shorter shocks?

it helps to keep shorter springs captive.

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If you keep lowering a long shock it will end up sitting on a bump stop and have no travel when it compresses but massive levels of travel when it extends. You must maintain bump travel. Shortening a shock body will give more travel in compression than lengthening a body. When a shock starts hitting the bump stop a lot things will get damaged, also hitting a bump stop changes spring rate as you add the rate of spring and rate of bump stop. When this happens the handling changes and grip is lost at that corner. Then blowing through the 10-20mm of bump stop travel and getting metal on metal contact radically removes/reduces tire grip and results in a loss of car control.

There is also the issue of keeping a spring captive but that is perhaps more an issue of spring seat location and spring coil design. In a coil over design if this is an issue then helper springs can be added. At ride height these springs stay compressed and don’t do anything. As things extend and they are no longer crushed/compressed they stop the normal spring falling out of its seat.image

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Thanks for the help!

Yeah that makes sense now. I’ll definitely look into doing that. Out of the 2 springs I posted above what one would you recommend? As they both seem to look extremely different.

First set I can’t see what the spring rate is. Second set are completely wrong and the front rate is ridiculous, plus they just say for Mira, that could be L200/500, L700 or L251.

It’s hard to make recommendations like this. If I had your springs in front and could measure them in and out of the car then things would be easier.

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Yeah that’s fair. I’ll probably go with the first set then. They aren’t crazy expensive so it’s not the end of the world if they don’t end up working properly.

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The l500 is annoying to get parts for. It’s basically an l200 mechanically by the car itself varies.

Here’s my l500 on kdfl-81 king springs. Kdrl-82 is the other set.

The rims are 13x5 at about +18. old school Cheviot wheels with the standard 4x110 pcd.

I am running new stock kyb front shocks with Hyundai excel rear shocks.

The setup is fine for an occasional road car. I doubt it’s a really great event setup but it’s safe and drives well on the road.


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Looks really good! Yeah I’m finding it really annoying to find parts. Especially engine parts. Everywhere I look it gives me EF-EL parts not EF-GL parts.

Roughly how much did you get the king springs for?

$350 per pair from memory so perhaps not the cheapest option but at least they are a good quality australian made thing. You can also get the exact spring rates from their website. On that, that are somewhat stiffer than stock. Basically as with all king springs, the rate increases relative to the 30mm drop. As others have pointed out this might not be ideal for the perfect setup in terms of performance and grip. I parked my grand ideas for performance so I could enjoy the car for a while. When I get back to modifying it again, ill be looking to do it a bit more seriously. Make sure I can upgrade the brakes, convert to 4x100pcd and get adjustable shocks combined with custom spring rates if I do go down that path. The other option (and im getting more serious about as time goes on) is to go full track car and put the engine in the back with an inboard suspension setup. As it is, for a road car (I have an ej on a haltech) it’s got more than enough power for the chassis and is a very easy driving kei car. I feel like I could spend huge money and time for minor improvements sticking with FWD. Taking the engine to the back would sort the balance, the rear suspension and the stiffness in one go. Plus creating much more space at the front to customise the steering and setup. A high revving NA motorcycle engine in the back with a sequential gearbox would make for a very exciting and potentially very quick track setup.

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I’ll definitely look into it. Thats actually a really cool plan. I hope it all goes well!