L80 EJ-VET

Intro

Hi all, my name is Jason. I’m 43 years old and live in the Netherlands. I am a self taught mechanic and love to meet new people and make new friends. I bought this K-car about 3 years ago and been having fun with it since, I’m not much of a storyteller, but I heard people love pictures, I hope you enjoy took me alot of time to make this post… :nerd_face:

Here are a few showroom pictures of the car:
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A picture next to my wife her Civic Ep3, she was so nice to go pick up the car with me altho that 2 liter engine drinks 98 octane :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

The first thing I did was make sure all the lights worked and changed them for Leds:

Cleaned the rear of any emblems or stickers:

The old battery with unknown history got swapped for a new one:

Gave her a well deserved service, fresh oil, plugs and filters, she loved it!

A few floormats cleaned her up a little more:

Suspension

After some searching I found these on ebay, it did not drop the car the way I had in mind, oh well…

This is a picture after the ZerOne Coilovers, sit on 12 inch wheels in this picture:

The coilover did fix the handeling a little bit, I was expecting it to be stiffer, I guess I need to upgrade them in a later stage of the project, especially for the plans I have prepared for this little nugget :smile:

Interior

A small steering wheel for a small car, this made the car feel like a kart, I loved it!

I’m not that great of a singer, so I decided to update the audio system, by making a trace of the original panel and remake it out of thin wood, after spraying it with satin black, it gave the car a clean look.

OOPS!!! not there hahaha…

Much more like it:

Let’s do the front:

Here I had already swapped the door handles for the grey ones:

I did not like the blue interior much, made me feel like inside of a KLM, to my luck I found a same model Cuore at the wreckers wich had a grey interior wich I sprayed with a special plastic interior spray:

The blue carpet got removed to make room for the clean grey one:

I’m happy with the finished look:

Rear lights

A friend of mine who is painter did these for me, they turned out very nice:

Wheels

The rims are from a Ford with the center machined to fit, with wobble nuts:

The Tyres are Yokohama’s A539 175/50/13

I drove her like this for a year figuring out what my next step would be… going back and forth between a few swap idea’s and how much work there was involved with making the swap work. With my previous experience of a turbo car, I decided to take on the challenge and do an engine swap, what turned out to be a simple swap turned out to be a huge project… you know how that goes… hehe

Project time

Scraping all that undercoating, it was a horror and took me forever…

My phone had a small crack in the screen, my son was playing with it and it fell in the water, I lost most of the undercoating of the car, swapping the engine and fitting the suspension and brakes, I’m sorry about that…

The engine is a stock rebuilt EJ-VE for now:

My friends garage became a little bit crowded, in order for me to continue I had to get my own spot:

Off to my first own small garage… I was so excited

Isn’t she lovely?

Custom Fuel Tank

The last motor was carburated and I didn’t want to put a fuelcell in the back of the car, I wanted the fueltank to be on the original spot of the car, to keep the car as clean as possible, I made a small example out of karton then drew it. Finally bent into shape and welded for the final product. It’s holding a 450 LPH Walbro pump for E85.

The returnline is welded with a bung on the bucket where the fuel pump sits in, to make sure the pump will always have fuel, kinda like a baffle bucket.

Here is where the tank will be placed:

Interior Touch up & Wiring

Turbo & Placement

The turbo is a Garret GBC17-250

Just enough room for my Oil Relocator:

Just welded 1 runner as reference how much room I have to work with:

Needed to cut the frame a little to make room for the Intake Filter coupler:

I will be cleaning up the engine bay when the time comes, need to get me one of those spotweld drills.


The Jig is almost ready, had some things to finish up at home, probably finishing it this week:

3-1 Merge collector test with steel:

That’s it for now my friends, if you sticked around all the way to the end, thank you… This is 3 years crammed into 1 topic, lots of memories… hope you all enjoyed the read up and the upcomming updates to follow… :nerd_face:

12 Likes

Nice build! Nice to see another person messing around with turbo EJ’s here in NL. I highly recommend upgrading to a decent MLS headgasket with some stronger headbolts since these engines are known to blow headgaskets even without any boost. While its open you can also drop in some lower compression pistons because the EJ-VE ones are quite high (10:1). I’d also keep the the oil filter relocation as close to the original position because the oil pump is also quite weak.

Looking forward to seeing more posts on this.

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@Wolff thank you, I been messing with it for about 2 years now, slow and steady hehehe…my son loves this car, sometimes we just go to the car and sit in it, even if it doesn’t drive yet :face_with_hand_over_mouth:.

The build is a learning curve for me, I have made some minor and some major mistakes, some more costly then others, here in Holland we call that “lesgeld” hahaha.

Thank you for the info will keep it in mind. I assume you done them yourself? I have a few Malaysia friends, we have picked eachothers brains. But I am more of a try to make the wheel turn better guy, not reinventing it. I wont take just use these pistons for an answer…

I know there is alot of things to pay attention to when forging an engine, I have a spare engine that I will be using for meassurements to figure out what static compression is best for this engine without sacrificing to much to not end up with a huge boost lag. I have asked my friends in Malaysia, they have pistons and rods for these engines. But till now I’m missing alot of info, what static compression, piston dome cc, combustion chamber cc’s, deck height and so on… heck… maybe we can findout together. :hugs:

To be honest, I think the gearbox will be ripped apart before anything else… I have the original L80 4 speed gearbox, stock L80 flywheel with a 4 puck clutch. I cut the eye on the shifter and welded it higher, homemade shortshifter. I have tried the Malaysian turbo manifold, but because there is little room in that small engine compartment I went on to making my own mock up, It’s my first time, wish me luck!

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Hey, let me send you a DM

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That’s allot of work! Looks awesome!

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Small update, got the turbo manifold jig done today, I will be ordering the bends tomorrow, I’m happy how it turned out as this is my 1st time trying this :smile:

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Surely this is one heck of a project, looking forward to seeing it move under its own power😁

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Hi all, small update on the manifold.

After a 15 min crash course from Rob (thnx Rob) I went to fiddle around with the program on 3d manifold design, it’s bit cheaper to get an idea how many bends and the lenghts I need. I only need the engine side flange cut, that will probably happen this week and then we can continue with progression. Goal is to not get caught up on equal lenght ect, we can still upgrade the design in the future to improve flow, but for now I think this will be it:

Till next time :wink:

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Absolutely no need for equal length. Cylinders fire at 240deg. Therefore there is no scavenging effect. Just improve flow reduce backpressure. A lot of myth in back pressure, you don’t want any as backwards pressure pushes down on pistons during their upstroke robing power. The Bernoulli principle is why small pipes can help low end grunt. I’ve only ever made one set for a 3cyl and just made sure transitions and angles are as shallow/smooth as possible. Your work looks much more professional than my efforts.

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Thank you, I will be using 35x1.5 mm piping to make the manifold as that diameter sits flush with the exhaust port, the only challenge is that I haven’t found short radius in that size yet, still looking tho. To get a 3-1 collector between 80 mm of space is kinda impossibel :thinking: and 3 tubes in a square is even more fun. I kinda like this design, I got some inspiration from a Yaris Gr manifold I found on the internet.

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A welder told me that the collector will be my hardest challenge, after drawing the 3x35 on paper with the flange, I realized that this needs to be manipuled in order to fit. Sooo… I decided to scrape the plans and start back from scratch, after alot of hours of scaling, turning and rotating I came up with this design. As I only have 80 mm to work with I think this turned out pretty nice :nerd_face:

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Hey all, hope everybody is doing well. Just received this box of goodies yesterday, tought I would share.

:ghost:"The man who moves a mountain begins with carrying away small stones"

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this is looking awesome :slight_smile: I am also playing turbo EJ’s and from what I have seen they are quite happy to be boosted as long as you enlarge the gap in the rings and use a standalone ecu for tuning them.

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After doing a few welds I came to realize that the quality that I am able to produce would be below my expectations for the car. She is back together and curently waiting on her date she has with the fabricator. This will help cut my to do list in half. I still have loads to do.

I wonder if there is anyone here with a L80, that has a EJ swapped and using EJ gearbox… I came to notice that my subframe doesn’t allow me to use the EJ gearbox due too the shift linkages hitting the engine mount bracket:

I know that L700 subframe doesn’t have this mid brace, @Wolff is taking measurements from the L700 subframe to see if I can make it fit.

Any idea’s are more then welcome, I get a feeling this is one of the reasons that the ED gearbox is most of the times used. :rofl:

I know Josie on the Facebook page was fucking around with an older handi and an EJ I don’t remember if it was a success

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I have used ej box on an L200. That middle cross member is different and I have to make a mount/ bracket for the gearbox to mount to the stock mount.

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@FrAsErTaG Thanks, I will take a look :wink:

@evilhighway that is some good info :smile:

I was thinking of making a tubular subframe in the future, that way I could improve the front wishbones maybe farbicate a traction bar system, improve the engine mounts. I wont be able to finish it in time. For now I will have to use the ED gearbox, I will buy a few spares just in case.

Using the EJ gearbox I did some research and found out that I need to make me some custom driveshafts, Malaysia claims that the 850 Kancil auto shafts fit, but that is not the case. There is alot of R&D going into this car, it’s fun and challenging, sometimes frustrating, but when you finally get it to work the way you want, it’s a very rewarding and amazing feeling.

I heard rumors that ED gearboxes break around the 120 Hp mark, it’s not Hp that kills gearboxes, it’s the torque. Who can confirm?

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If you go to the trouble of a tubular subframe, think about adding proper radius rods and mounting the sway bar separately. It will feel sharper accelerating and braking.

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She is back with her nose in the air, change of plans, we might as well go the extra edge to try to fit the EJ gearbox.

From some meassuring I noticed that the mid bar of the subframe won’t collide with the shift linkages of the EJ box.

I decided to remove the intake as well, it will be replaced with a custom intake, with bigger plenum and bigger TB, gives me alot more play room as I was thinking of going Drive-by-wire as the Maxxecu supports it, saves a bit of room in the engine bay with no idle control valve.

However the subframe bar does sit in the spot where you have the gap for the exhaust between de gearbox and the engine blok, making it a pain for routing from the downpipe to the back. To make it more interesting that Mid bar carries the rear engine mount, this bar needs to be removed. With this bar still it’s also impossible to remove the oilpan, so it really has to go…

The ED gearbox support doesn’t fit the EJ gearbox, so we will have to farbicate that engine mount or at least grind some material off.

With that taken care of we can remove the mid bar from the Subframe and make a custom mount for the back, wish me luck :joy:

For now, I am at the point of removing the driveshafts and removing the gearbox, so I can fit the EJ gearbox for mocking, but before that…

I’m assuming I need to use the EJ flywheel with the EJ box and not the ED flywheel? :thinking:

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I have been looking around, but still no confirmation on what flywheel and clutch to use with the EJ gearbox, but we do have some updates and finally some answers confirmed by people who broke alot of these gearboxes.

The stock 1st and 2nd and final drives are all good for 300hp. doesn’t matter if you got it from a EJ gearbox, Copen, Charade etc, they’re all the same strength apart from the 4.933 final drive which has much smaller teeth.

3rd 4th 5th are all equally as weak as each other. there’s lots of incorrect assumptions about these gears floating around the internet. they are all weak.

If you’re running around 160hp then the factory gearbox is fine (as long as it hasn’t been mistreated prior to loading them up with more power) if you use a good quality synthetic oil that won’t break down at high temperatures like Penrite Pro Gear.

For the ED gearbox anything above 120-130 Hp is probably pushing it, as the Input shafts are tiny and would break for sure. Breaking each time in a different spot makes them unpredicatable.

Waiting on an impact gun so I can loosen the drive shafts…

That’s it for now, have a great day :wink:

1 Like