You can use the ed flywheel and clutch etc but you need the spacer that you will find with the ej Box. You need to put it between the crank and the flywheel. You need this so that the starter motor can engage the flywheel. The ed flywheel is much lighter then the ej style one. You will also need to work out something for the clutch cable set up.
Aha… The same spacer that I removed in order to fit the ED gearbox. Thnx @evilhighway
The EJ flywheel weighs 7.5 kg, I tought a had a spare ED flywheel to weigh, but no luck. The one I have is on the car lol. I will have to wait for when the gearbox is down to be able to check the weight. Unless someone has one lying around to weigh with no bolts fastened if possible.
The ED flywheel or one from an EF-EL (same thing) is the way to go. Much lighter flywheel that is easy to machine. I’ve got these things down in the 3kg weight range after a lot of machining. Jim Berry from Race Clutches checked it and considered the cast item as “safe”. I did not use the “spacer” but instead shimmed the throwout bearing (this required pulling the pressed housing off and making a new Delrin spacer).
@Mr_Gormsby that’s great info, do you think a K3 flywheel could fit? K3 has 190 mm clutch instead of the 170 mm of the ED.
It will be much heavier. Should fit if the bolt pattern is the same. The lighter car will get away with the smaller item. I ran a custom solid center and modified pressure plate. Some here used to run twin diaphragms in the pressure plate housing to get extra clamping force. You end up with a ridiculously heavy clutch pedal. Instead I had the pivot moved upon which the diaphragm spring pivots. Doing this keeps the pedal light (does increase the travel) and increases clamping force.
You may find the pressure plate may foul the gearbox.
@evilhighway I think I will stay with the ED flywheel, just need to sort out if I will use this clutch or a stronger one.
@Mr_Gormsby I do have a clutch I ordered from Malaysia for when I wanted to use the ED gearbox on the ED, the vendor claimed it will hold 250+, but I am not sure about that:
If I look up the part number i find DD01T, for the clutch and pressureplate. I have found that their stage 1 "S"metal holds 40% more then stock, but that is on a S metal set, seems like this is a stage 2 version, I wonder if anyone has experience with this clutch.
I ran one of those clutches for a while in my Move and I got rid of it after one of our track days at Lakeside. It ran fine until the last session and it got hot and slipped so badly I had to be towed off the track. Once it cooled down it was fine again.
They are very good on the foot and are light and not heavy.
I did double sprung pressure plate after that and never had an issue again and yes the pedal was a lot heavier but not as bad as I thought it would be.
See how you go with this and go from there. Just keep hold of old pressure plates to make a double sprung one if needed.
Sounds like a nice plan, I found out that the ED flywheel weighs 5,9 kg, will be able to confirm once I got mine out, have to get it lightned, might as well weigh it for the before and after.
got some pics for you.
This is ejde flywheel
Then the ed/ef style flywheel
and the difference in top view and you have to use the ed/ef style pressure plate.
Ejde top one.
Thank you all… the info it is helping alot
I got my impact gun and went back at it:
Now with the flywheel is out we can go lighten it, If everything goes to plan I will be sending it off to the machine shop tomorrow. I put mine on the scale, somehow mine is 6,9 kg
Next I will be cleaning the EJ gearbox (I hate flithy hands) so we can fit the gearbox and start mocking the gearbox support.
Have a nice day
Its all so clean good work man!
I have some pictures of the EJ and ED box next to eachother to compare:
The black gearbox is the ED gearbox:
When the gearbox was in I noticed the end of the gearbox touching the subframe, with this touching the engine was not level, I was missing about 0.60 —>
I decided to mark the area, remove the gearbox again and give the area some whacking love hahaha
I’m happy that it fit, but I am a long way from done, the next item on the list is the gearbox mount… cheers
We are back at it and I must admit, I kinda like the process of finding solutions or making things fit.
Lucky for me, the EJ gearbox still had the mount, so I traced the gearbox mount on some MDF and cut it out
Traced the L80 subframe mount, wich is a simpel design.
I ordered some 6 mm steel sheet to fabricate the mounts, still waiting on the delivery.
For now I need to testfit and modify where needed, being MDF it cuts very easy and is not expensive.
Thats a snug fit!
Oh thats different when I did it, I did similar to what is on the gearbox and welded 2 plates outward that lined up with the stock engine mount and a hole through them so it would bolt up.
Everyone tackles things differently and I love how you have done yours.
Thnx @evilhighway , I’m surprised it turned out this well, I do need to put a 10 degree bend on the lower part, other then that it’s going as planned. Did notice that I need just a little bit more clearence where the gearbox used to hit the subframe, I will tackle that one, when I remove the gearbox.
Still waiting on the delivery, one of these days. Then we can continue with the mount
I had a derp moment and forgot this is an L80 not an L200. Could you maybe extend the mount down a touch which would raise the box and give you the clearance you need without too many issues.
@evilhighway That would solve the gearbox almost touching the subframe, but will also remove the 0 alignment of the engine. The subframe only needs 2 mm more room, I think the hammer fabrication will be used for the final mm’s. The middle hollow parts of the subframe bended faster then the edge.
The other clearence is the bottompart of the mount, original has a 10 degree incline for the subframe clearence. I am leaning towards the slight bend. Just feels right like that. I could also make a round spacer under the mount to raise the mount.