Any so the rollers coaster continues… my father just finished a project. The car now sits at his place. I just got a bigger garage and today I’m going to look at a l251 potentially to use as a donor.
Anyone know if the crank is the same from an l251 auto to manual. Ie suitable to bolt up to the manual l500 transmission ?
I have an L251 manual gearbox bolted to an ed20 so I would assume its usable as long as the 3-4 biggest bolts line up you canuse it and just work out something for the inspection plate.
Well I’ve just trailered the l251 back to the garage. Going to try and get it running first. Suspecting fuel pump since there’s no noise and has had a hit in the rear end. I’ll keep the thread going after all
Engine seems brilliant after running it up with a makeshift fuel solution (bowl of fuel, old pump and a garden hose). Threw a new t-belt on for good measure.
Managed to grab an exedy HD clutch kit but unfortunately it didn’t come with the retaining clip for the release bearing and the old one broke where it attaches to the fork when removing. So im on the difficult hunt of trying to locate a new clip
Double check the clutch fork position. Some aftermarket kits need a longer throw out bearing body (spacer made). I made the mistake my first time going to ejde with L series box and the clutch only released right on the floor. Fit the box and have think about where the fork should be to ensure good travel.
All of it seemed be the same as oe and went together easily. Engine and gearbox are mounted in. Intake is on and it all works rather well. The air box is fouling on the bonnet but that will likely be replaced with a custom intake and a pod.
The exhaust manifold fowls on the sub frame. Not a huge problem since I was to run extractors. The manifold doesn’t exactly look high flowing.
Anybody got any leads on easy ways to build or buy extractors? I can old charade 1l extractors for sale but I assume that’s ed10 and wouldn’t bolt up but who knows. Any ideas would be helpful
I made my own extractors. Being 3cly equal length is of no benefit so a fairly easy job. Jasma or something else Malaysian are probably the only options. I bought a set once. Looking inside them they were not pretty. Nicely polished on the outside, but not even the slightest bit of deburring from the original cutting of the tubes.
The spot-welded pinch or flange on the K frame needs notching and welding back together for clearance. This was neseccary even with my 1 7/8" collector. How to build, hmmm? Do you have a mig welder (not gasless)? That Charade would have to be an L275 (not really a Charade) as it’s the only one with an EJDE.
Yeah, the 3cyl charade’s are CB engines and the exhaust ports are round and not square. With the exception that @Mr_Gormsby has stated the L251 ie EJ-DE powered. If there are extractors for them then you should be fine.
Engine is in and fired up. Having issues with the immobiliser bypass. We mistakenly threw away the key and ignition. Have tried following some advice on threads here but with no luck so far. Anyone got a known bypass for L251 immobiliser?
aftermarket ecu
not exactly a cheap option. Are there no ways to defeat a basic immobiliser?
on aftermarket… do you know of anything that would have a base map to run the engine ?
none that I know of and no also to aftermarket ecu base map as I have only used piggybacks in the past. The other option is to get an ecu and loom from an L700 that never had immobiliser.
Most aftermarket ecus will have a base map. I would say an aftermarket is a cheap option. Considering what you end up with they are a bargain. Thirty years ago to get performance one had to do things like buying a set of webers, manifold, and sets of jets and tubes. If you have to pay someone to fix the immobilizer problem it might work out not much dearer for an aftermarket ecu.
Aftermarket ecu was top of the wish list I just wasn’t expecting to have to go that way this early on. I’ve heard good things about haltec software wise and my dad has some experience with link. Any experience with these or other brands you could share?
Some of the new Haltecs are pretty good I hear. I had an early model and it was damn awful. My positive experience has been Autronic. They are not well supported but I like them and have one in my WRX and am about to put one on my Liberty. I also have some experience with Motec and would say they are one of the best, but expensive. I once had a Microtech LT8. Not great but okay for the used price which was $400 for the ecu, digital dash and loom, this one was a bit short on options esp lacking wideband. Often a good direction to go is to think about how or who is going to tune it and talk to them.
Ive been asked the following by Haltech support
"Do you happen to know what the trigger pattern is?
This is the amount of teeth the crank and /or cam sensor see per engine cycle. "
Does anyone happen to know this?
Im leaning toward Haltech Elite 550 at this early stage
Have you considered an open source ECU?
I was considering this for when I start my build.
https://www.everythingfuelinjection.com/ecus/the-micro-its-small-but-powerfull/
For the price and features, it’s hard to beat. However, I have next to no experience tuning ECUs, particularly anything open source so perhaps someone else could comment on that?
G’day gruss… i have been looking at those… thats super useful link thank you. The speeduino is a very cool concept. As an IT engineer, OSS is awesome and I am super comfortable with this kind of tech. My issue was making/assembling the PCB and case ect. This is so cheap im very tempted to get one and play around.
My thoughts exactly. Plus you will have support from a local seller (assuming you’re in Australia?).
I would love to hear your experiences with this ECU, if you get it.
I think I could quite easily install one of these and get a basic tune going. I would just need to find someone local to me who is able to road/dyno tune open source stuff well.
