1998 Daihatsu Mira L700 EJ-DE check engine light after cluster swap

Hi everyone, hoping someone can help.

I swapped my instrument cluster and since then I’ve had a check engine light come on.

The car runs perfectly normal. The light comes on with ignition, goes out after starting, then comes back on after driving about 20 to 30 metres. Turning the car off and restarting clears it, but it comes back again once I move.

I put the original cluster and PCB back in, but the problem is still there.

I took it to a mechanic and they couldn’t find any codes with a normal scan tool. They then used the diagnostic pins and got a speed sensor related fault.

The speedometer is cable driven and still works. Could the speedometer cable not being fully seated cause this, or is there another speed signal from the cluster that could be causing the fault?

Welcome to the forum, would be good to see some pics of the car in question as a ‘hello’

with regards the problem you’re having, it suggests to me that your issue is a wheel speed/abs sensor. The fact that the OBD1 code points to that, and that the ‘error’ is present with both the old and new cluster says to me that is whats wrong. Also, the fact that it only appears after you have moved the vehicle would align with that too.

So start with the basics - are the ABS sensors both plugged in correctly? Do you know which one is throwing the code? Next, check the sensor wiring from loom > sensor using continuity setting on a multimeter. You want a reading that ISN’T ‘1’ indicating there is no continuity

Hellooooo

After futher inspection of the back of the cluster I did notice a slightly damaged part of the circuit board that traces from the third pin of the white connector that leads from the speedo, so tomorrow I’ll bridge those twos and see if that fixes it.

UPDATE:

I have found the problem, it was the speedometer the entire time, popped my old one in the new cluster and no check engine light anymore, now I need to go to the wreckers and find a matching face plate :rofl:

Can you swap just the faceplate? It looks from the pic like you might be able to pull the needle off the faceplate, then undo the 4x philips screws and the plastic faceplate should come off the ‘brains’ behind it?

I could swap the faceplate but one is 160kmh and the other is 180kmh, numbers don’t line up past 80kmh so it won’t show an accurate speed.

But from memory I’ve seen a faceplate at the wreckers that will be a colour match.

Ah, sorry I missed that!

ecu disconnect and reset?