Greetings, friend, I’m having an issue with my Srion K3-VE2 M101 transmission. When I shift into reverse, it often makes a sharp knock. There are times when it doesn’t, but most of the time when I shift into reverse, it makes a sharp knock.
Can you help me?
Welcome, would be good to hear and see more of your Sirion, do post up an intro.
In the meantime, when was the ATF last changed? Is it affected by engine temperature at all? Do you have any error codes (unlikely, but possible…)
Nice to meet you!
Dear (Farmer), I appreciate your prompt response and your attention.
I always read about it here on the forum. Well, let me explain: I have a 2003 Daihatsu Sirion / 1.3 K3-VE2 engine. A while back, while trying to replace the radio, I caused a short circuit and this damaged the TCM, as when I shifted into gear, it wouldn’t engage and would slip into D. After that, I looked for another TCM, and this fixed the slipping issue, although when I shifted into reverse, the bump was still felt. The other shifts shift in without any problem.
(There are times when I shift into reverse, the car shifts into reverse without noticing, but at these times the car must have traveled about 3 km and with the STEER-SHIFT in 2nd gear engaged, reverse works fine, and at other times the bump is slight.)
The car hasn’t had an ATF change; YES, at the time the stereo problem happened, due to my lack of knowledge, I added a little more ATF without changing the existing one. Mind you, I only added about 250 ml.
Regarding the engine temperature question, when I turn on the A/C on very hot days, the engine temperature rises within 15 minutes; at night, this doesn’t happen.
No problem, glad to help.
What I would suggest is to change the ATF as a first step, I’m not 100% informed on Daihatsu automatic gearboxes, but having worked on many contemporary ones from other manufacturers I doubt its anything like a complex as a modern 8-speed techno-nightmare.
It shouldn’t be any more complex than checking that there is a drain plug and fill plug (UNDO THE FILL PLUG FIRST BECAUSE IF THAT SEIZES AFTER YOU’VE DRAINED THE ATF YOU’RE STUFFED!). Drain whatever is in there, you’ll likely get about 50% of the ATF out of the entire system, measure carefully how much came out using a disposable measuring jug, then refill with the exact same amount of new ATF.
Run it like that for about a hundred miles so the old and new ATFs mix up nicely, then repeat the process. You now have 75% new ATF in there.
Repeat one more time and you’re up to 87.5% new ATF which is as much as is realistic to change using this method. I suspect you’ll need a 5L bottle of ATF, a large syringe (like 500ml) a measuring jug and something to drain the old ATF into.
Do that, then see what the situation is. Total cost should be under £50/$75/€70 + maybe 3 hours of your life over 3 weeks? I think it’ll want some Dexron III which is cheap from the likes of Mannol, Fanfaro, Liqui-Moly and others
I use mannoel its fine