There used to be bracing around for the M1 Sirions. But it has all seemed to be discontinued. D-Sport used to make a few things, but now they are not even listed as discontinued items anymore.
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Yep noticed that 
Fullriver HC20 battery tucked in under the passenger seat, had to get creative to ensure it was relatively flat (floor is so bumpy!) and also not foul on the brake/fuel lines underneath
Came out tidy though with an accessible circuit breaker and easy to access battery with the seat fully forward
Will take the cable to a VE commodore positive terminal where the battery use to be, will finish that side once i put the GTVi loom in as ill be using the main loom grommet to “pop” the cable through
Also scavenged a heap of titanium bolts from the old RS liberty race car…no point going to waste?? Started with a few basic ones in all the door hinges etc
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Front copen brakes have been sitting around a few years and needed a tidy up
Calipers will be cleaned and then painted satin black, rotors had some decent surface rust and i thought id try some rust remover. Pretty amazed how good it worked! Took all the rust from the vents as well which is a bonus
The rotor hats will get a sand and then hit with satin black alongside the rear drums just to satisfy my OCD
Dome new rubber arrived for the Watanabe reps in some 185/60/14 dunlop direzza z3…decent 200 treadwear semi slick for the small 14 inch size and looks chunky as!
Also have some 185/60/14 nankang n2sr (120 treadwear) in XL coming, was silly cheap and am just keen to see how they fill the guards with my impul fz fins
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Nice one!
I heard people had issues getting good 14" tyres - seem like you got it sorted without having to go to 15’s.
haha - your comment about the brake-lines under the relocated battery is valid!
Pretty sure I ever so slightly knicked one!
Your effort is far higher quality / more attention paid to it than mine. I’ll have to lift my game if I’m in a spot to work on it again.
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Yeah theres definitely not as much to pick from unfortunately, but i found these dunlops, and nankang ns2r with 120 or 180 treadwear…and also nankang AR1 which are great tyres
Theyre not my go to hankook rs4, bridgestone re003 or advan a050 though lol
In regards to the battery this location was the only spot that supported the battery properly on the ribs…i packed out some parts with rubber to be sure it was secure.
All the bits are from my old racecar except for the new battery as i was running a lithiumax and mines dead flat…but they like $1200 now!!! Mine was $350 many years ago 
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Eyeing off one of the just race parts 14 in 1 gauges and sensor sets to keep an eye on the car for what is a decent price which includes a tonne of sensors
All those sensors are included, so could do decent monitoring for a touch over $300 which is the price of a good quality single gauge/sensor these days?!
Plan would be to monitor the following, just because theyre part of the package and the fact the OBD2 doesnt send to my scangauge
- coolant temp (inline adaptor- are they 25/28mm?)
- oil temp (sandwich plate- gotta find the thread size)
- oil pressure (sandwich plate)
- Intake air temp (threaded into cold air intake)
- gearbox oil temp (will get an adaptor to fit the drain plug)
- and could have spare to monitor a wideband later with an added wideband package
For the price that would cover way more than needed, but ive always found it is always good to have a decent idea on the engine/gearbox health and any changes to the norm when racing
And if i get a decent thermostatic sandwich plate i could add an oil cooler at a later date if needed, might not be with the hillclimbs though as its only short duration racing
The pro speed racing ones seems ok and cheap enough, with 2x 10AN outlets and 2x 1/8 npt points for sensors (oil temp, pressure)
Edit: found out i cant run the trans temp sensor as planned, with coolant and oil temp as my priority temps ill keep them and the only other port is a combined intake temp/trans temp…so ill just have to skip the intake temp
In reality trans temp is way more important, especially if pushing and going to a copen final drive and LSD
Being non turbo aside from CAI positioning and ducting theres not much i can do with intake temps anyways
But i may try configure a switch to be able to flick between the two when needed for testing as i have some ideas for ducting and shielding of the intake
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Michaels white 3 cylinder shell came with some added bonuses and one of these was a factory rear swaybar in mint condition
Whilst not as thick as aftermarket options, it’s certainly better than nothing and fits just like…well…factory 
And will go towards off setting the much larger front swaybar that the GTVi gets (23mm vs what seems like 17mm)
Have temporarily removed it and put it on the green GTVi as i have a date with an exhaust fabricator tomorrow to make a 2 inch system up on the GTVi that will be swapped over to the white shell when swapped
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Took the soon to be donor Sirion down to Hunter St Automotive in Hornsby for an exhaust date with Lenny Lie
Was worth the drive as Lenny did an amazing job for a cracking price! Hes just an all round nice/knowledgeable guy and was happy to have a chat about the upcoming work refreshing the engine and gearbox, and even provide some service info
Full 2 inch stainless, all double braced, tucked close to the body, high flow cat, hotdog resonator and oval muffler to a simple tip, same setup as standard and is super quiet but growl that bit more 
(also threw a wideband bung in just in case for later)
Paired up with the super circuit 4-1 headers the engine sound angrier and loves to rev even more now, had to take it for a run home via the old pacific highway and even with 20 year old suspension and crappy tyres this car is a blast to drive!
Excuse the O2 sensor wiring, it will get a heat wrap and a better more permanent position when the engine comes out…whole loom will more than likely get wrapped in cloth wrap to freshen it up too
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Looks great!
Do you notice a definite exhaust note change around 4k rpm?
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With the headers for sure with the OEM system, mainly sounded overly tinny and hilarious
Sounds much more growly now but
[quote=“Lando, post:30, topic:6565”]…it will get a heat wrap and a better more permanent position when the engine comes out…[/quote]On that pipe connected just below those headers, isn’t that also a Lambda port? If so, wouldn’t it be more practical to extend the harness to there where the loom won’t be exposed to excessive heat?
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Yep Thats definitely an option, there was nothing there on the stock system so just put it in the normal position provided on the headers, heaps of people run them with no heat protection without issue
I got the extra bung put in a wideband from my racecars set up when i move my gauges across, not important for an NA but good to monitor all aspects of the car and its a free addition
Honestly though where it sits stock is buried and probably in a much worse spot
Ill probably just extend it a touch and properly mount the cable up higher along the head when the engine comes out
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[quote=“Lando, post:34, topic:6565”]…there was nothing there on the stock system…[/quote]On later models, a second Lambda sensor was screwed into there. If you do choose to use it, it shouldn’t make any difference to the board computer, given that there should be enough heat available for accurate emissions measurement
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Yep saw there was a hole there on other models, thats why it seemed a good spot to put one…so its definitely an option im thinking about
I could then run the wideband off the header one with the cable straight back over the head so minimal cabling is in the heat…could also run a simple heat deflector on it to protect the sensor somewhat more
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New yahoo win arrived today in a tanto custom MOMO steering wheel! Was super cheap and in great nick!!
But that silver is blurgh and had some wear so i got to work with a few different grades of wet n dry and then finished with some metal polish, brasso and plastic polish to bring it back to gloss black plastic
Leather got a thick soaking of leather care balm and let to soak in, aside from some simple blemishes it looks absolutely mint now and feels a tonne better than the old one!
Also after failing on getting an OEM footrest for this thing, i went for a D-sport copen model hoping i could make it work…and on first glance i think its gonna work and be much better than the stock crud
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Bit tidier now with a little extension using crimp lugs as one of the loom cores seems to be stainless (usually thats so for the sensors wiring but i thought most looms were copper)
Opted to keep the upper one the OEM sensor due to shorter extension, and i have a clean route for the wideband cabling to the lower bung
Either way it works and its less exposed to the heat now
I will retape it all when the engines up on a stand and also add a bit of heat protection to the cabling running behind the power steering pump (and possibly to the pump itself)
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[quote=“Lando, post:38, topic:6565”]…using crimp lugs as one of the loom cores seems to be stainless (usually thats so for the sensors wiring but i thought most looms were copper…[/quote]Looms are usually assembled with copper wire. The only exceptions are for Lambda sensors, given excessive heat. As copper heats, its electrical resistance increases. Appearantly, the steel wire leading into the Lambda sensor retains a more constant electrical resistance under varying temperatures.
I’m guessing, you may not want to use too lengthy of a steel wire loom, because of voltage drop. I’d keep the length of the steel wire the same as it was and then extend the loom from its original socket with copper wire to the re-located plug
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Yep thats all i did, decent gauge copper twin core cut around an inch back from the plug and added approx 40-50cm extra between the cut
Seems ok so far, only idled and revved but havent taken for a decent drive
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Another stolen part from the Subaru racecar shell, the ishift ecliptech sequential shift light
Awesome little bit of kit that only needs 3 wires (pos, neg and a tacho) which can all be found behind the cluster.
Have it set up to start lighting at 3500rpm and flashes all lights at 7000rpm but can be tweaked at anytime
Also pulled the cluster cover off and cleaned a heap of dust out
I then started restoring the headlights and fog lights as they were a bit below average.
Hit them with 600, 1200 and 2000 grit wet and dry before an orbital buff with some metal polish. Still a few more stages but they look a million bucks.
The lights from Betty White have a few tiny spider webs inside so ill open them up, clean them out and maybe paint the chrome black a touch like ive seen on some european and jdm storias
And finally a little present arrived from malaysia! (within a few days of ordering mind you! Malaysian parts are so fast to arrive!) this is a kelisa 3 core sard alloy radiator…i think the inlet/outlets are a touch smaller than mine but will have new hoses next week so will double check and get them changed if needed (and got the turbo barb weleded up or converted to an npt bung for a coolant temp sensor)
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