All the gods of Daihatsu
I recently got Perodua Kancil (which is a Mira L200) as my real first car
it’s an 850cc carburated 5-speed Manual
I’m planning to build a 1:7 power-to-weight ratio car ( similar to the 2011 Volkswagen Polo GTI 1.4)
and yea I kinda want to be a daily so nothing crazy
I don’t have much knowledge on L200s
I only know if I wanna hit around 90HP most probably I will need a turbo but are there any other ways that I could hit that without one
I’m planning to do a light overhaul on the engine too so is there anything I must change or just upgrades
Hi welcome to livetodai forums,
If you want to hit around 90hp your going to need a turbo. You could get it bored out to take ejde pistons but your still not going to get 90hp out of an ed20 without some sort of forced induction.
Have a read through some build in the forum and other info there is heaps in here that you can learn to get a better idea.
Hmmm I see
Then which is easier
I keep the carburetor and turbo it
or convert it to injection and then turbo it
sorry I got it wrong its an ED-10
Don’t want to rain on your parade but if you are able to get the engine to put out a reliable 90hp thats about 2.5x what it currently delivers. Not impossible, but a big ask.
You will need to consider that the brakes, gearbox, suspension, clutch and other important bits are designed for the 37bhp the ED-10 engine puts out in one of these stock.
I would suggest if you want 90bhp out of the car, you look at an engine swap. If you can shoehorn in a K3-VE or K3-VE2 engine that’ll give you a reliable 90bhp, though will be heavier than the EJ-10 engine. You’d need to look at wiring and sensors and whatnot too so its not a small job.
I’ve seen stock EJ’s with a snail attached push out right around 150hp, and with March pistons and a thicker headgasket well over the 200’s. Not that bad for an engine designed to only deliver about 50hp or so.
I don’t think engine swap gonna be on the list for now
Now it’s more like seeing what I can really push out of that engine reliably
I was thinking about having multiple phases
phase 1 (prepping for a turbo):
Change some of the internals
Keep the carburetor or just go injection with a new intake and ECU
Just push whatever I can with it before boosting it
(pls give me some suggestions like what I can do)
Phase 2 :
Convert the carburetor to injection for boosting
How deep are you pockets. ED20, is 2 valve tech and a poor base design to start with. Do you want a reliable and driveable 90hp? Spend you money and time on a standalone ecu with closed loop O2.
My experience suggests “do not bother” doing anything other than keeping it going as std. For all the work and cost to end up with a turbo ED20 I would swap to an EJDE. Even if you have the workshop and fabrication skills it is going to be off the road for a long time and it will be a costly exercise. 90hp is going to break the std gearbox eventually, the std open diff will produce frustrating wheel spin at any low speed, you’ll need either an expensive clutch and pressure plate ($800 alone for a decent one with a useable pedal pressure), brake up grade essential at least using Sirion M100 uprights and cooling upgrades.
Sorry to sound so negative, but “experience”.
This right here, why spend a lot of time and money custom fabrication something why you can use that money and effort to start on a way better platform. Also, if you break something EJ related, everything is available new either from Daihatsu or Perodua.
Sooo in conclusion the ED is just garbage for any performance
It’s not garbage, it’s just not as potent as an EJ. I want to remind you that the EJ is a whole lot newer too
I agree the ed is not garbage it is good for what it is. I used an ed block with an ef head and ef intake and wiring and ecu etc for my franken turbo setup on my old Move (L601) and it was great. Just if you want an easy solution for more power without a lot of headache’s then the ejde will be the way to go and even that is only 40hp from factory.
Technically it is 40.5 KW
Stupid question, but do you think the EF-DET head is a better option compared to the EJ heads? I thought they were the same but I’m not 100% sure.
not sure about the internals of them but outside the pretty much look the same.
From my understanding that the EF-DE head and EJ-DE head is the same part. It would be unlike Daihatsu to create a “one-off” part. I think you’ll find the EF-VE, EF-DE(T), EJ_DE and Perodua’s ED-DE are actually the same casting.
None of the those heads will easily go onto an ED-20 block as Daihatsu changed the water pump area and added an old drain however the EJ is basically just a bored out ED. EJs in stock form are very uninspiring however with a lighter ED crank, lightened flywheel, some balancing and possibly some EF head parts you could likely get it revving quite high. If ED-10s with 12v heads can do 8000+ “reliably” I see no reason an EJ with ED and EF parts couldn’t do at least that as EF-DETs rev well into the 9000s with the same (or super similar) head.
I think EJs eat bearings if you rev them that high though, my old ED Frankenstein took a beating at high RPM without worry but I’ve never tried it with an EJ. The bigger, heavier 72mm pistons might give it too much force.
I have found this to be correct. My ed10 bored out to take ejde pistons with an ef el head ate a set of big end bearing’s when it was boosted. However I repaired the crank (wet n dry and shoe laces) and got a new bearing kit and it ran great as N\A and only going to about 7k rpm with the ed head on it and the efel cam gear as the ed cam gears tend to flog out.