No change to radiator. If you are just bolting to the ef-el gearbox then no drive shaft issues. Exhaust will probably not bolt straight up.
Wiring is not my area. Some people attempt the wring and throw in the towel after months of toil. My mate that wired mine did it in three hours easily. He did it with a test light. Can’t really be too hard. ECU in car goes to ej-de loom. Find power, earth, fuel pump…
Exhaust needs to be modded as the EJ manifold sits a fraction too far to drivers side, it does bolt up but then will hit on the engine crossmember, mine does anyways 
Ok cool. I found a wire pin out. Not sure if it’s the same as it’s from a different car to where i getting the motor and ecu from.
Exhaust i can put up with till i get one made .
Any mod to the dash required for gauges
My std dash was wired in, no prob’s or changes. Had a TR-XX one but the tach won’t work due to the diff ingition so I went back to std and put in a shift light with seven LEDs.
but from what i have heard there is an adaptor to get the tacho working, costs about $165 odd from ebay, looking at one one day myself
Ok cool not much to wire up then
So what about the fuel lines? I was reading one that says they are too small.
I was thinking thats because it was a carbi car and not efi like my 660cc
Fuel lines are fine. Yes, on a carb the return is to small. I drilled the end of the fuel rail out and tapped it for a return fitting. Run this to a rising rate adjustable pressure reg and then to the return line. I use a late model Ford Falcon efi fuel filter after the fuel in line and then from the filter to the fuel rail. The Falcon one is a good size and was the cheapest, so I can afford to change somewhat regularly. One problem that did arise was the car not wanting to run and only idle. It was the strainer in the tank was blocked. While I had the fuel tank out I cut a hole in the floor so I could access the pump without having to pull the tank. I also did the inside of the tank with Gold Standard fuel tank sealer and added an Apprilia RSV4 fuel pump.
Cool sounds like it shouldn’t be too much hassle to swap
One thing i have been meaning to find out @Mr_Gormsby, being that the EJ’s in most cars is a returnless fuel system, would it not be possible to block off the return line,use the standard EJ intank pressure regulator and have it as a returnless system in an L200?
That would require a variable rate pump, or intank reg. Easier to put a regulator under the bonnet than pull the tank and try to fit things in the tank. Then if you got the install wrong (such can take a number or revisions) the tank has to come out again, or while the tank is out the first time make a hatch inside to access such. It is my belief that return-less is cheaper for manufacturers as routing less items costs less (except if it is electrical and you are simply adding to the loom). A benefit of fuel return is cooling the fuel and rail. Return-less systems run hotter. And there is little option in pumps. At least the std pump will run a ej-de, and the factory pump is a straight swap for the most common after market ones (I went with a 255l/min pump spec’d as for an Aprillia RSV4 as the power figure of these is in line with where I thought my would end up power wise).
