Hhhhmmmm yeah I just had a better read of the legislation then, it seems that 6 point cages can only be registered with a certain kind of registration… I’ll have to talk to my engineer mate and my mate with the roadregistered swift sport that had a full cage and is all completely legal.
Cheers mate
Word from Qld Transport is that full cages of any type can no longer be certified. Your mate’s car was prob done before the change. The only exception I have been told is temporary rally rego that is sort of event specific. If you find out otherwise I’d like to know.
Yeah I just got off the phone with my engineer, apparently they changed the laws recently which is why my friends swift with full cage is still completely legal…
I suppose that doesn’t effect me too much I can still run a half cage and use that to attach harnesses to. Ah well that destroys that idea…
Thanks anyways boys
If, and I am sure it will, my MIra ends up with the sort of speed my Subaru has run then (when running properly) it must have a cage. I am reluctant to run without a pretty damn good helmet and a hans device, which alone has been a strange thing to get used to (have only used it once so far).
I’d say in SE Qld driving around with a full cage (even approved) would attract way to much attention and you’d get so sick of being pulled over you’d not bother. Though mine has rego and no cage at all yet it gets trailer ed to events. Will keep it reg’d for as long as I can afford it, cage will go in and it’ll get drive prob only in my street and on/off the trailer as close to the dyno and such shops for really short passive junts on the road.
Yeah I used to run a cage, harness and Hans in my 180, I don’t know how i feel about getting out on track in a car without a proper cage, but I’ll cross that bridge when I come to it…
Once I get the engine pulled tomorrow I’ll get to cleaning the bay and working out placement of vital things… I assume that when you do the sirion hub and brake conversion the bmc needs to come across as well so the plan is to order as many things as possible brand new for when the car starts to come together…
Also I’m going to start making a list of things that will need replacing from peeps on here so if anyone has any of these things let me know…
The passenger side skirt is missing the very end, ideally I could find a set of trxx ones from somewhere but whatever…
The more important thing I’m needing is the plastic surround of the steering wheel… It was completely smashed when I picked the car up so that’s a key piece…
So yeah, if anyone has the steering wheel surround let me know… Cheers!
L200 master cylinder and booster is fine. As is brake line w/ prop valve. System really needs to be upgrade to single line to the rear and get rid of the cross over system.
Full cage needed to stop body flex. On B roads mine flexes. At night I notice the interior light goes on and off - def flex/twist - door (local road with a left/right camber change one way to the other). All that came with running a stiff enough rear that it picks up a rear wheel. Is not stupid low and has 75mm of bump travel in the front with 115lb springs 500lb rear. Rear dampers are being run near full slow and has almost perfect balance right now except for “micro hops” at the rear. Suspect the soft rear trailing arms bushes so am making some delrin ones. Have made some crush tubes from old 20mm chrome strut shafts today, will get onto the bushes this week. There I go waffling again. For the street and not being able to run a cage welded to the roof I’d seriously add quite a bit of carbon fiber directly to the chassis vacuum bagging it to bare steel in the A pillar region. As mine is a van I’d do half cage but keep it looking like a barrier with mesh and hang some parts bins to it.
Ah ok… I guess that’s something I’m going to have to look at when the time comes… Mine had seats in the back but I’ve ditched those and will be leaving the back half of the car stripped so worst case scenario a half cage can go in and I can just look into fabbing some braces…
Thanks for the heads up on the bmc, I reckon I’ll still replace it and the lines with brand newys as doing it whilst the engine is out will make it easier than replacing when it eventually shits itself…
Cheers bra 
Alright so just a minor update, I’ve found an ej and box out of a cuore to buy locally, with steering rack, k frame, shift linkage, harness, ecu and front cuore hubs and brakes…
That’s the first pieces of the puzzle, once I get those home I can have a good luck at what else I’ll need and then I csn go from there…
Be safe peeps!
so you are going ej then?
Yep so I’ve been doing some research… I figured since every man and his dog have done the ej conversion I should just stick with that because when shit hits the fan I csn just post in here and get help from you guys hahahah
EJ head is an excellent design. I’ve got one I’ve cut in half through the inlet and exhaust ports. To me it’s like a copy of the good things in a Cosworth.
@Mr_Gormsby definately knows his ej stuff and as you have seen he is a wealth of information with Mira’s and other auto stuff.
Me Im a hack and no nothing much about ej stuff. With the exception of a couple of minor things.
We are both hacks. I’ve just done more hacking and had the best intro to the EJ-DE from EFImira who swayed me very quickly away from the EF-EL that was not producing expected gain/input-effort.
Hahahaha evil, I’ll probably be joining you in the hack group as well… Ive owned skylines and slivias almost exclusively so if it’s not Nissan and turbo I don’t really understand it… The internet is a wealth of knowledge though so I should be right sticking that ej into the Mira then fabbing up a manifold and sticking a turbo on there…
As top gear say, how hard can it be? Hahahah
Did you bore the heads out at all? The ej will be going on the engine stand when I get it and I’ll strip it down to make sure it’s ok… Best case scenario I’ll just run a better headgasket and stronger headbolts and go from there…
The EJ-DE uses a MLS head gasket from factory, the biggest issue is tuning it. A standard engine with good tuning via a proper ecu and the motor will be fine.
I’ve not actually got around to doing a proper head yet for EJ. Have about six ready and waiting. EFIMira ran std engines and heads w/ e85 bolting on his custom manifolds, w/ Wold ECU to 150+fwhp. Factory MLS headgasket is good. You could do custom ARP studs with ARP Audi internal wrenching s, or Johno figured that VG30 headbolts (some threaded section needs removing) might be a go with drill/tap of the block. I have some but have not gone that way yet.
Yep that would be the plan for me… Do headgasket and headbolts and then run standard engine on e85 with a flex fuel sensor for the ecu… I’m nwor chasing massive power just something that is proper reliable for the race track…
Good call, handling is where it’s at for track stuff i reckon.