How did this happen?:
The original goal was to repair stock engine because it started to knock.
We havent found any repair size pistons, so after I read the forum and @evilhighway told me that EJ pistons will fit we decided to go this way.
Then after we took parts to machinist he told us the block was already bored and had repair sleeves in it, they found it out when they were milling into the block. And we are lucky that sleeves were smaller than new 72mm pistons so they just popped out.
Fuel injection is neither in our budget, nor we have access to such parts. For Armenia this car is a very rare thing, nearest salvage parts yard for daihatsu is in Tbilisi, Georgia
So we bought new carb and other parts for replacement. We keep fuel, cooling systems as they were, for now just overhauling the engine.
Car will be a daily
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We dont know haha, car was bought like that with bent valves, we replaced them and it ran 30k km before this big repair
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Except for one which is the timing belt’s tensioner. Judging by its appearance, it has been in there for a long while. Tensioners are more prone to failure than the belts themselves.
I would avoid SKF parts. The two that I purchased have developed rust which endangers the belt: Butchered replacement MOVEs diary - #40 by Butch_Butcher
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we put new ciling cover on!
that was hard.. if you plan to do it, do not throw away old ceiling, first make a cutout with old shape and cut new cover on the table. make sure to cover interior with plastic film to avoid glue from spraying everywhere. then get inside your car, tuck in front side of new cover in car body roof gaps, we used pieces of rubber hose. when one side of ceiling is attached, start applying glue on both car roof and new cover. align everything and make one center line pass, after use roller on sides from center
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Those specs aren’t for ED engines. It’s not necessary to renew ED head bolts, unless their threads are damaged, like what sometimes happens to head bolts being removed from where the siamesed exhaust ports are located.
The following are proper ED specs:
Translation: Apply a thin engine oil film onto the head bolts’ surfaces.
Torque down the bolts evenly, at least two to three stages, in the pattern shown and at the following torque specs:
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Thank you! we put head on the block today, victor reinz specs that came with ej gasket are nearly the same (59nm)
Next week hopefully will put engine in the car
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plot twist new roof cover went off, glue didnt hold it 
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tensioner was almost new, we left it as it was, thanks for the tip!
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Hey guys! We finished all engine works and drove it for the first time today!
heres a vid of me and my friend (he is the owner and drives it in the video), we drove to car parts shop to buy manual choke cable
this thing is gnarly, it revs very good, low end torque is awesome, Danya is happy 
some photos:
still got a bit of things to do – new oil pressure sender, shorter alternator belt (the right size is about 10x770, 785 is a bit too long)
thanks everyone for your help! im amazed that folks so far from us helped with great advices and information, blows my mind 
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Did you do anything to the cylinder head?
just resurfacing and new oil seals, it is stock ed 10
Thanks bro. I’m going to try to do something similar with the engine on my Move L601, the ED block will definitely remain. I will follow your post as it is quite useful for my future build
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go for it! and feel free to ask questions
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So glad its all gone so well. Another Dai lives again. Well done mate!
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It appears to run pretty good with that carburetor which is almost as bog as that engine?
Will you get around to adjusting those valves soon?
carburetor is Solex 21081 jetted from factory for 1.1l engines
it has 2 barrels, i wonder if stock ed10 carb has only 1? never seen it
valves were set at 0.20-0.30 clearance, i think we will adjust them again after 500km on next oil change
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Even though very messy, they are required to be adjusted, while the engine is at operating temperature:
Of course, the cold settings are initial, after any part of the valve train has been replaced.
I wouldn’t wait for 500 kilometers for adjustment, simply because the valve trains on EDs are subject to premature wear
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