In that case all i can think of now would be the engine timing or the fuel system (due to the lean stuff).
I cleabed the injectors with carb cleaner. The only symptoms i have are the check engine lighs and aometimes the rpm needle is foing slightly up at traffic lights. I dont know if that is possible , but whats the chance the ecu to be faulty and give me a rough time?
Could possibly be that one or more injectors are not closing fully. Causing the increase in rpm, but shouldn’t cause a lean code.
I’m not saying it’s not possible. But the likelihood that the ECU is faulty is extremely slim.
Thats the thing , i dont have a lean code but if you watch the fuel trims , she is runing lean but doesnt throw a code. I am asuming that if they doesn’t close the start up of the car will be extremely hard because of the fuel inside the cylinders … again i am not a mechanic and i am not making a statement…
Before spending more money…
I just remembered that the wiring loom underneath the airbox (on L7’s, M1’s and M2’s) tend to get rubbed through and sometimes break. It usually causes a check engine light on the o2 censor. But theoretically it could cause some resistance in the wire causing false readings, which in turn could cause the ecu to try and adjust for it even though it’s not correct.
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The pastic is rubed up pretty bad but never bothered to check the wires … i will check them and get back to you. Thanks
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I didnt have time today to check the wiring under the airbox ( i will do it these days, for sure ), but today i changed the old spark plugs back because with the denso ones , my car started to stutter as i mentioned, but i took pictures of the coil of the cylinder with the brownish colour. I want to ask you if it is possible the sparks to go out of the coil through small cracks which will cause the brownish colour in the chamber as well … just going through the pictures i took today and saw it …
Have you checked all the vacuum lines running along the engine for cracks? I’ve had the codes for a misfire after changing the plugs. Worked out to be a cracked vacuum line attached to the airbox. Cut off a cm and reattached and the problem went away.
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I looked but unfortunately cant see them cracks. 
sprayed carb cleaner around the hoses but didnt have change in the rpms or fuel trimms. There are a few holes under the injectors which i dont know if they have to be there , right under the injectors, right on the engine , if u look through the one u can see the ground 
Do you have a picture of those holes? I have a M3 1.3 so I could compare it?
Hey guys , so i just decide to change the timing chain with a friend of mine and we were amazed by the fact that , we could not take out the Damper ring or washer (i dont know the technical Termin for this part). i am asking you for advice how to take it out without taking out the whole engine.
Yeah, sorry to be the bearer of bad news but it is an engine out job on an m1 with a K3-VE or K3-VE2 engine. There simply isn’t enough room to extract the bolt due to the inner arch.
The tensioner/pulleys can only be removed with the engine lifted out of the car.
Also, re-fitting the aux belt in situ is possible, but not fun!
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I juat want to upload my progress with the misfires i am getting. We did everything we could but the misfires keep going on. I will post some pictures. We think that the problem is in the igniter module and i am asking you guys where i can find new or a used one ? I checked in amayama but either i am not searching correctly or its not for sell.
