Daihatsu sirion m1 misfires

Hi guys, first i wanna tell you, that i am so happy to find this forum with fellas like you, who are ready to help and assist with experience and knowledge, and of course pictures and instructions to these amazing cars of yours. Now on my question, i bought daihatsu sirion m1 with 1.3 l engine, 2002 year ,102 hp , k3-ve engine. When i took the car in my possession and give it a punch till 140 kmh i heard rattling noise from the engine bay like the pistons are with me in the cabine :grinning:. I knew something was wrong but when you dont have the money you just turn the music up , right (or just keep the speed below 140 :grinning:which i did )? But i few months ago i got the check engine light and went to a shop for a diagnostic test and it showed me p0133 (slow feedback from the o2 sensor) with p0300 to p0304 (misfires ) . I changed the o2 sensor and a little while after i left the shop , got an check engine light and went back to see what codes was throwing at me … it showed airbags and abs faults , we cleaned then but it kept misfiring. The guy told me that he cant help me… kept misfiring with the codes p0300 , p0314 with p0136 a few time , so i changed the second o2 oxygen sensor, with no difference… sometimes it threw p01300 which the obd2 scanner said that i should check the manual service for that exact code, but in the manual they start from p01346 , which is timing chain but at iddle i dont have rattling sounds . Also the long fuel trimms are around 40 percent and up. Changed the spark plugs with febi 2 months ago , checked the coils, taking them out to see if the engine would stall which it did. I tried to do check for vacuum leakes with DIYU smoke jar, but it was not very efficient because i cant make the pressure like a professional smoke machine . I cleaned the injectors with carb cleaner but nothing changed. The short fuel trimm of o2 sensor 1 is around 0 or negative 2 or 3 percent , the short trimm fuel of o2 second sensor is always around 20 percent and up.most of the misfires (blinking check engine light ) keep happening while i am waiting at traffic lights and i am at iddle .if it was definitely a timing chain wouldnt the misfiring keep hapening on cylinder 1 and 3 ? I hope you guys help me, im losing sanity here :rofl: applause to the creators of this forum , really having a good time reading about your d’s :grinning:

Which brand o2 sensor have you used?
As for the spark plugs, i recommend using only Denso or ngk. They run a lot better with those.

I’m pretty sure you have excessive oil burning. That usually cause noticeable misfires during idle and could cause o2 sensor codes or even failures.

I had a similar issue with my first L7. With mine it was very clear as it used about 1L of oil every 100km’s.

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The first o2 sensor is febi , thats what they sold me from the shop. The second one is denso. It is burnin oil but i cant say that it is excesive . I had a ford fiesta and that one was burning oil like a mad man. The dai is burning lets say like 1 l(even that is a lot but lets say ) for 6 thousand km.

Try running it on premium unleaded - 98RON stuff. As mine does few miles I use that as it has less ethanol in than regular e10 95RON

A friend borrowed my Sirion for a weekend and filled it up with regular e10 and brought it back with the EML on (grrrr) which turned out to be misfires detected on several cylinders. I cleared the codes, put a couple of gallons of 98RON in and its not done it again.

If nothing else, its cheap to test. Run the tank down, clear codes, put in a few gallons of premium and drive it about a bit.


I thought about that :thinking: and from e10 i changed it to the next one which is super but still getting the EML , i will try the next one then… let see what happens. Are these cars and engines so fickle about the fuel ? Genuine questione :thinking:

Did you allready checked the compression? To me it looks like something started a life of its own. Perhaps an oil scraper.

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I did not , dont have the equipment , so i will do it with the next change of my oil (which i want to check with a magnet , i really wonder if something is eating itself if i can say it that way) . Next change would be in 3 thousand km which is a two or three weeks for my driving. Maybe earlier , i will see how things are gonna happen. Why do you think of the oil scraper ? Would you elaborate , i am wondering because its not like it is losing oil so much. As i said earlier for 6 thousand km as i drive around 150 or 200 km per day and i did a few small refills. There is no smoke from the exhaust… im telling you guys , that car is a fucking enigma

Not just the oil scraper, but you stated you heard a rattling sound made by the engine. That sounds like…

  • spark plugs that are to long, and touch the piston. (Seen it before)
  • scraper problems, caused by an oil problem or non movin oil problem. Such a leak, or worn valve guides cause it to run bad stationairy.
  • timing problems. Worn belt/chain can or may cause problems as well.

P is Potsdam right? Just a bit to far for me. But someone should help you with a compression test. And dont forget to look at the plugs. Snake eyes will help.

The rattling which is like someone is hamering my door occure only when i hit 140 kmh . Yeah, I am in potsdam. If yhe spark plugs are hitting the pistons, the next thing they should hit, should be the head of the person who sold them to me… i willmake a video , so dveryone can hear how the engine works at iddle.

Just check the distance of the sparkplug tip. You will see when it just hits the piston ever so slightly

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I’ve had that happen on my Gino. I pulled the plugs because i was taking the valve cover off.
Turned out someone put in Honda plugs, and they were hitting the pistons (as far as i know no damage luckily). (I believe i have a pic on my build thread).
It’s one of the many reasons i only use the plugs that are in the workshop manual.

May i ask you where i can find the manual on english ?because i serarch for it but found it only on russian.

I can’t help with a manual (yet).
But i have the next best thing… A parts catalogue.

Denso K20R-U11 or the NGK BKR6EY-11.
However, i strongly recommend Denso.

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These are the old ones , which i changed with bosch. I will buy the denso one tomorrow and will change then though …

They don’t look good at all.
From the condition of the plugs it’s clearly the wrong type. Maybe it’s been running too lean and/or too hot?

I think she is runing lean because of the fuel trimms i watch on live data. Long fuel trimm is almost always over 40 percent . The short fuel trimm of o2 sensor 1 can go from 0 to - 4 percent , but the short fuelt trim of sensor 2 is around 20 percent. Which from what i read its runing lean .

I changechanged the spark plugs with denso . While chaning them i saw that one of the coils has a brownish colour and the chamber also while the others were clean…
Check engine still blinking

The car even stutters when i hit the gas pedal after i vhanged the sparks , i dont know what i did wrong

The discoloration is most likely from excessive heat.
The coil might be bad. Is there a noticeable difference when you unplug it with the engine running?

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First of all thank you Aaron for trying to help me, really apreciate that like a beam of light in the tunnel , a very dark tunnel :grinning:. I did check them pulling them out while the engine is working and everythime i pulled one it was like the engine is going to stop , starts shaking