Hello!
I apologize if the question is one asked too often but I can’t seem to find what I was searching for. What are our options in terms of remapping fuel/ignition tables. The obvious answer and by far the most suggested solution is to run a sand alone ecu however I have no intentions of going to that length just to gain minor improvements. From memory I thought I’d read reflashing the factory ecu wasn’t possible. So I’m guessing a piggyback unit is going to be the only way to go? In my instance I’ve got a small blower on a a fairly low mileage EJDE, I’m also running extractors, hi flow air filter ect.
What are you using for your builds? Are there any brands that work better than others, or a even just a real basic unit. Any feed back, advise or thing so stay well clear of would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
honestly a stand alone is the best way as the factory ecu’s are locked, piggybacks can be a pain in thhe proverbial. Depending on your level of understanding about electronics, you can get a Speeduino for around the $400aud mark, either as a full kit to build or some places sell them already made and ready to wire in, it uses Tunerstudio same as the Megasquirt ecu’s and has a fairly reasonable following amongst the Mazda MX5 crew overseas so a fair bit of information and help available on their forums and facebook. I am personally looking at a Link G4+ Atom for my EJ when i turbo/supercharge it as where i live has 2 of the top Qld Tuners of Link ecu’s, price is under $1k for the unit. you will have to look at another trigger wheel setup as none (that i have heard of) support the 3+1 cam trigger of the EJ.
the main problem I have heard of with piggyback’s is getting them to connect to newer computers, @evilhighway has used a Greddy Emanage Blue with some success, he would be able to tell you more about them.
Curious as to what you have done to lower the compression of the motor??
yes I run a greddy blue mainly just using it to control fuel delivery as the engine’s I am using have a distributer. The greddy blue emanage is a pain in the butt to get working and I do not have mine dialed in perfectly nor care to have it perfect. It runs a bit rich but better than lean. I have the greddy blue talking to windows 10 without much of an issue and on xp as well. The main issue is having the tll adapter working properly in either of the win 10 or xp environments. I got my greddy for $75 and you get what you pay for but works for me. I could have run my setup with extra injectors etc and just did a manual tune like other have people have but they have more issues with having to feather in the throttle for boost etc. I did try that first and it did work and what I found was as soon as I hit the right boost for my secondary injector to come on it would just flood and cough and splutter etc. The greddy pretty much took out this horrible flooding part etc and smoothed out the drive and I was able to just use bigger injectors and turn the fuel down for when the car is off boost and gradually bring it up. @Mokeman mega squirt did a 3 trigger sensor as ill-minded had his ejde running that setup form a ms2 from memory. His was little red L80 with itb’s
ECUs are cheap. Full rebuilds are not. Get something that takes advantage of wide band O2, or even better still something with knock protection. My ECU decision was for a standalone where the cost of tuning won’t break the bank. Better to spend an extra $500 to $1000 more on a better unit than finding the tuning cost me a tonne. My first ecu was an early Haltech, at the time I could not afford the Motec M4. Big mistake. While Haltech are better now, back then the tuners could not get the Haltech right whereas friends were getting things right with the M4 at a fraction of my tuning costs. Then I briefly tried a Microtech LT8 with digital dash. Not a good thing, limited tuning parameters. Have run std ecu for a while but am going back to standalone.
Speeduino and adaptronic m1200 both have the ejde trigger patterns already programmed into them. Speeduino is the cheap way to go for full control but isn’t a good option unless you are willing to take on a realy steep learning curve. The adaptronic is quite a bit more expensive but has amazing technical support and great features, fail safes and software. These are the 2 options that can read the stock trigger patterns that i know of. The popular thing that is done all to often is wind up the fuel pressure which in my opinion is the wrong way to go about it and as seen on the latest track day a medium power turbo ej destroyed a piston in the first session (rip ejde )
The increased fuel pressure route can be okay with an NA and you might get lucky with your roots blower as changes are mostly linear - but the things make a lot of heat and the pretty much closed loop system of a factory ecu really won’t know when there is an anomaly. As in Danny’s example any destruction takes a nano second and there is no way on earth fuel pressure could be set to counter which one of millions of combustion events are going to smash the engine. Whatever benefit you’ve found with the AMR probably pails in comparison to have putting on an Adaptronic M1200 alone. Go the route with most support and save money, better performance, more reliability, more versatility, less headache…
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