EJ-DE into L200 Modplate?

Is a modplate needed in Queensland for an EJ swap in an L200, full legalities observed?

Legally required to keep the ef or ed block. Would be silly to do the engine swap and not do brake and suspension also


Wait what? As far as I know there is a certain size/power limit when doing engine changes but retaining standard mounts an using an engine that is only 150cc bigger would be fine wouldn’t it?

I believe there is a 20 percent rule in qld. You can legally go up in power by 20% before you need a mod plate. I think you would be ok with getting one done.
I think you are looking at that because the car came with ej and not an ef/el or ed10?
Either way I wouldnt be looking at anything bigger in power than an ej for the topless. It has no doors and you can fall out of those things lol.

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I hope I’m wrong but changing the block to one that is not listed for that chassis, even if the capacity is smaller, usually means you’ll need a mod plate. You could take an ed10 bore and stroke (with an ej-de crank), out to say 1100cc and plop the ej-de head on and that would be, from my experience - fine (since you can show the block is original, but you can’t have modified any ancillaries),


which does say an “equivalent engine’ with an increase of not more than 20% power which is an identical fit can be put in (This does not leave much scope and it is main roads interruption of identical and such allows for replacement of rare blocks that are damaged with an “identical” recreation”). Anyway, based on manufacturer listed power figures an ed20 (which you might argue came in this chassis) means 44hp plus 20% or about 53hp. The EJ is listed for 62hp so it’s a no go, and even if you swap it must be done so with the original brakes. Let me know straight away if I’m wrong.

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Why change suspension? there is little weight change and the l200 suspension is stupid because it is made to haul freight.

You can bore the ed block to fit ej pistons. The stroke is the same.

The car he got came with and ej. I think it would be best just to spend the extra and get the mod plate. You could put on the vented disc’s found in the 660cc if required for the mod plate as they are apparently upgraded from the solid one from the 850cc model. Or if your mod plater allows it or requires you could source move brakes if keeping the 4x110

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@Daniel_Davies please explain yourself properly. What do you mean by “stupid”? The freight comment could mean “stiff”? I contend the suspension was designed to fit across passenger and utilitarian models and be above all else to be “cheap to manufacture and install”.

“Why change…?”, well the question was about legality of putting an EJ-DE into an L200, and the suspension from the donar car would have to be swapped over as well as the engine - becuase Qld Transport say so. It’s that simple.

If you read my the thread on my build you’ll see another perspective on why it shouhld be changed/altered/modified, well to change if any performance is sort after. I sense though you have a std front end and want to feel justified in keeping it that way so it won’t be worth debate. Drive a std Honda Civic of the same era back to back with a Mira and tell me which you’d rather have to take on a long trip based on ride comfort and handling.

The suspension in std L200 is designed for a payload. It has a lot of preload resulting in no suspension droop. end result is when the weight shifts to the outside the inside lifts resulting in loss of traction on the inner tyre. The std suspension is fine for ej de engine, the weight difference wont make 1 ounce of difference because of the setup. No I don’t run std suspension, but I dont run low either because that would screw all the suspension geometry. I run the best change you can to the std, cut off all the preload from the spring which results in about 1 inch of suspension droop.

If the L200 had indeed had a lot of thought put into it’s function as being “for a payload”, then I contend that that Daihatsu would not have used a trailing arm rear end. An increased rear spring rate for the van as opposed to a rear seat model, that I would agreed with. Design for a payload normally is normally evidenced with self-leveling systems. Subjectively I’d say Daihatsu did little more in thinking about payloads than a bit stiffer spring and omitting the rear seat.

Daniel, do you even know what preload does? So you’ve removed enough spring to keep the springs capitve and have the car sit a bit lower. Total droop is not affected by preload. Yes, cutting your spring has it sit more into it’s travel so the wheel can “fall” into dips.Rear has to much droop and needs to be limited to reduce rear traction (read up on making fwd cars handle - front needs all the grip). Total droop is affected by the stroke of the strut damper or rear shock.Weight shift is more a function of spring rate than ride height though the latter is a variable.

As far as traction goes you do not say whether this “loss” is front or back. This is a front wheel drive and they all steer like a dog as std. I’ve driven them since they were new (used to service a fleet of them back n the early 90s) and have driven dozens since- std and modifiied. I guarantee you that I have done more development work on the handling of these than perhaps anyone on this forum. Std rear rate is too soft, double it and the thing will be transformed. Front L200 rate fine for most applications. L200 method of supporting front axle is a disaster and dangerous in competition and disc should not sit on axle alone but is better when located with the wheel hub in the front cast steering knuckle, and that alone is reason to “change” even if std springs are put back into the new strut leg.

I suspect you are stuck with an L200 that has an EJ-DE in it and std L200 suspension, and you’re trying hard to justify why you are going to keep it std. Good for you. Legally your argument is not llkely to stick with the transport department if it were to be inspected.

Note: front wheel drive which is raced successfully. Watch for rear wheel lift. Think about it, as much traction as possible must go to the front and only one rear wheel needs to be on the ground to stop it tipping over.

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Hmm, you are a dick and totally why I don’t bother with these forums, thank you and good bye!

Okay, I’m a dick. I can live with that. You sir have little understanding with vehicle dynamics and its a shame you are not keen to understand what is going on with your car. I’m fine with others picking on what I do, how else have I learnt anything?

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thanks guys, yes the car came with an EJ-DE so i was wondering, will have to do more research :slight_smile:


You lost when you started talking about cutting springs…

Im sorry @Daniel_Davies but @Mr_Gormsby was trying to educate you…

Anyways in Canberra
There is three main rules

  • No more then 20% increase in power and or engine capacity (cc).
  • No regulations on engine being fitted as long as it does not require engine mount modifications or modifications to the rail
  • Emissions must remain the same or better.

if you go outside of the above 3 rules then it is required to have an engineering certificate which then goes into great detail on engine mounts/chassis/rail modifications, brakes and suspension, wheels etc.


In Queensland I am sure just changing the block can require a mod plate if one letter or number are different from what is avaiable from factory - has been my experience.

@FrAsErTaG the 20% plus rule is based on manufacturer stated figures? If so the EJ-DE is 62hp and more than 20% of the std Australian delivered options.

Guys, I’m not here to win anything on the forum. While recovering from this weeks surgery i will be at the computer a lot. Maybe I jsut need to read heaps rather than interject in any content. Regardless, while here I want to learn, so please be quick to point out anything I say wrong technically or otherwise, and I am okay with being quite free with the things I’ve come to understand and happy to share within this community - my bent though is always from thee pragmatic perspective of improved engineering>performance. So,

@Mokeman is there a strong need to stay with std L200 (front) suspension? The mod is cheap and fairly easy with the possible exception of one drive shaft needing attention wihich has been the bane of many I’ve seen doing this conversion. Is there a concern with legality? I am sure there is a solution but the context and rational is fuzzy. This is all about M100 or L700 front hubs, brakes, struts (with or without L200 springs and whether chopped or not) and (l700) control arms going onto an L200 that has only had the EJ-DE put in? What will it be used for? How will it be used? I wish I’d written the info down but geomtery wise when I EFIMira helped me do this several years ago scrub radius, castor, and all stayed pretty much the same. There was perhaps a 10mm increase in track which gave a tad more negtive camber.


Correct mate


@Mr_Gormsby the car is a topless i picked up for cheap, already with ej bolted and wired in and what else i have no idea as none currently in local wreckers to compare to :frowning: so i will be asking seemingly silly noob questions but i thank you for your help, and everyone else who helps thanks muchly in advance :smiley:

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original was the 660 so almost 50% bigger

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