Hi dudes, I’m about to bolt an amr500 on my ej-de once I finish reconditioning the head. Has anyone run low boost (less than 8psi) on the stock Ecu or could someone pretty please send me in the right direction?
All I can seem to find on the net is stories of someone else doing it successfully with a rrfpr.
Should I be upgrading injectors, pump, map sensor, adjustable cam gear and looking for an cheap apexi neo/greddy blue?
Many thanks dai family
Hey mate.
There are a lot of people on here who would probably say “use the search engine” but I will give you some pointers anyway.
Forget about adjustable cam gears and all of that shit if you’re going to run that kind of turbo setup.
Wire in a Greddy blue and with the map sensor just tee piece it to the factory map sensor. (So you run both)
Don’t bring the boost on at too low of an RPM and remember, detonation will kill your motor. Nothing else really besides revvs (you will loose a rod) will kill your motor.
Yes, you will be limited by injectors and fuel pressure and so on but you will be surprised what you can get extra out of the motor with the fairly standard things it has without spending too much money on upgrades.
You’re welcome to spend money on injectors and fuel pump and FPRs and all of that but if you’re not doing internals then don’t waste your money.
Just from my experience anyway.
I don’t know everything but I know a lot about wasting money on Sh!tbixes…
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@Paulep82 are you saying run the normal map sensor and run a map sensor through the greddy blue also? That was the one piece i hadn’t quite gotten to yet as before I just intercepted the factory map sensor wiring only.
Steven sorry to hijack mate.
If you do run a greddy blue you may need to make a TPS sensor if the ej ones are the same as ef and ed20 engines. a cheap vn commodore ones would do.
I think you can run an amr without the greddy though with less than 8psi it shouldnt be a problem with the map sensor and I think the stock fuel pump could keep up. As for injector’s, rrfpr etc from memory the ejde does not have a return line on the fuel system fuel system so not sure if you need a return line if using a rrfpr but you could go bigger injectors or 1 extra injector in your intake system if you wanted to make sure its getting enough fuel. you wont really be able to know how rich or lean it is running unless you have a wideband o2 sensor but you can make educated guesses by reading spark plugs and checking the exhaust to see if its running rich. (rich is better than lean). I put an amr 300 on a daewoo matiz with no change to anything but a boost guage. It never blew up and never had an issue with it. The only other thing I will say is good luck with the whine of the amr. they are very noisey
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Thank you for the good news! Electronics scare me, so it’s a relief to hear the stock Ecu can cope 
Sorry to be a PITA guys, I did try searching the site for 4 hours.
Thank you @evilhighway evilhighway For your tutorial on the emanage USB cable 
Im welding in the wideband and installing a fuel return line for the fpr just in case. Do you know what the base pressure is?
I read somewhere that there was issues with the stock 1bar map sensor and that timing would be an issue too? @Paulep82 I’m a little confused about your inline map sensor advice too.
What injectors would fit in the stock rails? I read somewhere that Camry 2.2 injectors might be the go. And a supra pump would fit?
What’s the cheapest way to control an extra injector?
Hey guys. Yes you have to run both map sensors. I got caught with only running one or the other. As soon as it Max’s out on the factory sensor the inbuilt one is the one that works.
I was pulling my hair out until I worked this out.
So to make it simple in words yes you run both map sensors and all that is needed is to cut a “T” piece into the map vacuum line and run it to the blue.
As far as the injectors go all you have to do is make sure the impedance is the same and the feed and nozzle is the same size and of corse the length. The plug you can change easily.
You can also fit resistors inline if need be for injectors.
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1 bar is 14 psi and your only going to run 8 so I dont think it will be an issue with the map. not 100% on what injectors would fit on ejde. I have only used ef/el heads but I am sure there is many options available. Timing I have no idea on as ejde is ecu controlled not dizzy like ef/el. As for base pressure for fpr I think it is abut 35psi? I adjust mine to try to best run with the air/fuel mix on wideaband.
Thanks @Paulep82 now I know I can limit my boost to 14psi with that also 
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Thankyou for your help
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8psi on an AMR is not the equiv boost associated with a turbo. 8psi on a roots blower is huge. The roots is a blower and moves much air instantly. Put your hand over the outlet and spin it. You will feel the volumetric nature. Do the same with a turbo and you will nothing. They do not compress air well due to the the poor sealing of the internals (at least compared to a screw type SC). This also means much internal friction from air rushing back past the outer of the impellers and the housing. The EJ-DE is already a torquey motor and that is where you will see a further increase, more so than big power. I suspect it will fry tires in low gears, and without an LSD will be frustrating. All the best with it. Do share your progress and post lots of pics. This will be fun.
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Hmm you have a good point there. But Ive always wanted to hear the wine of sc under my hood 
after my last project (Evo powered van).
May need to start searching for lsd options
It will whine alright. Original (factory) LSDs are few and far between for L700. Fortisd has just gone lsd check out his thread.
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Mr G is right it will whine. My amr300 whined so much I took the belt off and only put it on when I wanted to have fun with it and also that low down power you will have will be lots of fun.
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Turbo ejde is a really interesting one!
Have you guys actually done this?
Or are you giving theoretical advice?
I’ve not turboed one yet …but am going to soon
The stock computer seems poop from what I’ve seen on mix figures so far
…it leans out the stock engine!
Adding boost would be way worse!?
Emanage blue I’ve had nothing but issues with so far
My plan is to help develop a plug in version of a wire in 
So adapt the loom as a plug in …then can run a good computer like a link
Then replace map and injectors and pump to suit properly. Stock pump and injs barely keep up with the standard engine!
I know a few guys in Japan who have done this and the stock engine and box gives up very quickly
I have contacts for daihatsu race diff and conversion for k3vet gears into the L7 box if you want as well
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ef boxes not great. Poor ratios too. Stock block and head are fine with a good tune (read that as aftermarket ecu {Link or even old Motec M4} and dyno time). L700 box or K3 box? Well depends on the gear ratio/final drive you want. Most I’ve seen is 180fwhp on E85 (ecu was a Wolf, custom manifolds, Inconell TD04, XR6 intercooler and so on).
Yeah …issue is fuel delivery for a boosted situation won’t work well when it hardly stands up to the stock engine …I’ve seen a dozen lean out as they are
K3 gears are lot larger and stronger
Can do x4 gears as well
And a massive choice of final drive options of you’re swapping the diff anyway
Makes for quite nice ratios in the end
Base fuel pressure is 43psi
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Thank you!
I was hoping to boost my ej eventually (currently collecting parts). Very interested in seeing how you go with a plug in set up as I’m shit with wiring. There is also some development happing re a plug and play speeduino ecu apparently.
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Yeah I’ve played a little with the speeduino thing …but frankly its so far off and there are so many good wire-in’s for what I reckon is good money invested then I wouldn’t bother with anything else
Even with piggy-backs I’ve only really been frustrated by them unless you want a tiny adjustment
Will for sure let peeps know once have an adaptor for the link
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An old Autronic SMC with used loom with sensors is about $500-800 or Motec M4 for about $800-$1000 depending on how much is unlocked. For that you get a massive amount of tuning control if combined with closed loop O2. The result can be a safe tune. Now I need to practice this and get my SM2 onto my Mira.
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Update: motor actually runs well after I put in new rings and valve seals with some very light head polishing. Burson ordered the rings for $130, seals came from Ali express for under $30, manifold gasket sheet is pretty cheap at super cheap auto just cut out your own if you’re patient.
Finished up welding the extractors, wide band and straight through exhaust.
Next step is to track down a large V pulley for the amr500 so I can make the brackets. Been trying to contact kemo but never get a response.
Also looking for cheap wideband controllers to get the gauge working. Found a kit at jaycar which might work.
Made up a dodgy tool to remove the cam gear
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