If you have an efel there is not need for to do anything with the fuel pump or lines other than run a return line from the end of the fuel rail to a regulator and back to the tank. If you have an ED10, then just swap the internal pump for an efi one. Internal pumps get cooling from the fuel and are quieter than external. I have made up a baffle inside my tank to control surge (plus my tank is chopped and capacity reduced to 20l so I can run the exhaust straight out the back.
You should go to M100 brakes all round (100pcd) and hubs/struts. You will need to use L700 control arms.
Use a efel flywheel if you can as they are a better shape and easy to lighten. I recommend an upgraded pressure plate as the torque will over power a std efel one.
Can’t help with cvs as I run an LSD and jackshaft. This has allowed me to make non-welded/non-cut-shaft axles that are a mix of std/factory parts.
Shifter for L200 box must come from L200 as it is cable. You can use an M100 or L700 box but it is a more complex swap, but you use the shifter from the donor car.
I believe you can use an early ecu and loom on late 1990s motors but I’ve not seen a 2002 EJ-DE. If all the sensors are the same I can’t see why not. They are a very rudimentary ecu and auto/manual should not matter.
Throttle adaptor is pretty simple fabrication.
What are you planning to do with the car? Looking forward to pics.
It’s just going to be a daily, I’ve come to realise i don’t need a big car.
I’m not sure which motor is in it, so i’ll have to check but thanks for the tips.
I was planning to go just braided lines and maybe some new vented front discs. The car comes with coilovers already, but if i do go down the path of m100 brakes, would i also need the brakebooster too?
I’m guessing if I upgrade the pressure plate, it’ll be an efel one?
A couple guys off the fb group said to go with the L200 cvs with the gearbox, i’ll have to look for manual parts now from an L2.
There’s so many conversions but not many write ups for it, i’ll hopefully can document it, if i remember.
my one has an early model ecu, no immobilser. the auto ecu needs a couple of pins " shorted out" so to speak to trick the ecu into thinking it’s in park or neutral to start. easiest using the L200 gearbox and shafts as stated so no mucking around with mixing and matching driveshafts and cv’s but changing to the sirion hubs etc as Mr Gormsby said gives a better braking system and also 4x100 wheel pcd which increases wheel choices compared to the original 4x110 pcd, might be worth the swap to the sirion brake booster if you have a donor vehicle there otherwise the original should be fine for daily duties. i replaced my clutch with a standard EF-EL pressure plate 160mm as i got told the 170mm one didn’t fit the gearbox but looking at the manual for the L201 ED 850cc motor it says the pressure plate is 170mm so not sure on that. Apparently the EF-EL flywheel is a kilo or 2 lighter than the EJ one so better performance. hope this helps a bit
L200 master cylinder and booster are fine. The master cylinder is the right bore, and it has the reserve capacity in its stroke to run a set up with M100 front calipers and Appaluse discs on the rear.
Std front discs are hopeless. But it is the front bearing system in the L200 that scares me. The front hub hangs on the axle, this is not good. It is like this, you have to have axles in the car to have hubs and wheels on if it is to roll. Early on when I sought to make mine handle the G’s were enough to flex the axle/wheel/rotor and the disc would rub on the caliper. On the M100 the rotating hubs have flange that sits inside the steering knuckle and you can remove the axles and still push the car around with wheels on. It is a huge upgrade that makes the car feel connected to the road.
Most coilovers for these are crap. They look fancy on the outside and allow one to “slam it down low for looks, shits and giggles”. The only half decent coil over for Dais that you will find easily available are BC Racing. If you must retain you coil overs you could probably redrill.
If you have access to a machine shop a std pressure plate is not to hard to upgrade yourself. One just changes the large ring that the diaphragm pivots on. The diameter only of the pivot point only needs to go out a few mm.
Have a look through my thread for suspension tips and some images on brakes.
Thanks for all the help, i’ll keep all that you’ve said in mind. Because it’s a daily i don’t think i’ll need to upgrade brakes just yet. But if i end up with a donor car, i’ll keep it all aside.
Ain’t going anywhere at the moment Gormsby, I took some leave to help renovate my mums place and thought I would have time, renovations not even finished and was too tired to work on the car. I did start this week and removed stuff from the donor car to prep it for removal, but still a long way to go, need to do a manual conversion whilst I’m at it, and will go 4*100 eventually as I have the parts but focus is on getting the motor in.
How are you? How’s your health and your work space coming along?
No dai progress. Have been running the library wagon a fair bit and have had three top five out right results in a row. Slow progress getting my wrx road car going. When it’s done the Mira gets moved so I can work on it. Small things done on the house. Hope to really get onto excavation over my long Christmas break
