From a cheap run about to full track build! 😆

[Blyatsu]

Love you enthusiasm man! And I secretly still like those MSW’s

About the clutch pedal: I wrote a bit on that on my Blyatsu topic

@Blyatsu

CLUTCH PEDAL
Ever since I actually started driving the car, I felt like the whole clutch situation was a bit weird. It hooks up almost instantly when you start depressing the clutch, but I already maxed out on adjustment. Also, the clutch felt lighter than in most stock EJ L7’s I’d driven over the last couple of months, which seemed weird to me.
Last week, I came across the clutch pedal-section on Amayama.com, and noticed that the K3 and EJ both have different pedals. This made me think about how the actual, I don’t know how to name these, clutchlevers (where the clutchcable connects to on the gearbox) and pedalarms (distance between the pivotpoint and the clutchcable on the clutchpedal) might have different lengths and ratio’s, depending on what engine the car is fitted with. Here’s what I found:

It is very plausible the clutch isn’t disengaging because of the pedal, but on the other hand it’s no the first time I’ve heard or read something about crunching 3rd gears. Don’t know why, but it always seems to be the first with synchro failure. Or complete failure of 3rd gear, if you mate the gearbox to a K3VET ahem. On top of that, I’ve had a few grinds myself when shifting on high RPM, so I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re just not really comfortable with that. But, anyhow, swapping pedals might do the trick! Do be aware: I used the pedal from a YRV, which unfortunately has a bit of an angle to it, which causes the pressy-pressy bit of the pedal to sit higher (which I think is annoying).

Keep up the good work and keep enjoying!