+30Nm seems like a healthy figure! Plenty of torque for the little nugget.
I still have to learn a few things about timing, but I’m guessing less timing is good because it means it’s less likely to detonate?
After my long and tedious fight with the standard ECU, I’m considering getting myself something like a Speeduino or Megasquirt as well. Good to know it works!
Regarding the gearbox question: Daihatsu transmissions tend to break quite easily if you put more torque on them (that’s what often happens with K3VET manual swaps). Since the torque is quite high, towards a comparable torque figure to the K3VET, I was wondering if the gearbox is strong enough for the application. I think N/A power is less aggressive than an early 2000’s turbo power, but still.
And I get what you mean about the TR bumper. I’ve been asked quite often if I was able to send a bumper to the other side of the world (which I’m not)
Regarding the timing, my feeling is that if it’s very retard the engine is “heavy” but if it’s very advanced, just before detonating, it also becomes heavy. When I get to that point I delay it 3-4 degrees and then I see in the dyno when it stops increasing the powerin intervals of 1°, when that happens I delay it 1° and leave it there.
I’m just going to make a comment regarding the gearbox… the gearbox is going to break, it’s a fact… the question is when…
This is how it looked the first time I broke the gearbox.
I wanted to tell you that I finally took little Mira to a trackday. The truth, it was difficult. Some spins that I don’t remember when was the last time I did those. A car that I feel turns less than the Sirion. Maybe it’s normal but I don’t feel the 25 hp difference. Despite everything, we finished second in the category and I had a lot of fun driving back on the track.
As usual I leave you some photos and videos of the car.
I know that we are all generals after the war, here are a couple of videos of one of the spin… in the interior camera you can see that it was my mistake.
It’s so cool that you have all these pictures and videos! It’s a bummer it doesn’t feel like the Sirion, but I think you’d be able to fix that to some extend.
Is it true that you used the same wheels on the Sirion? They look quite massive on the pictures, and the car seems to sit pretty high. Combined with the smaller trackwidth (Sirion vs Cuore), probably means that your load transfer isn’t ideal. Of course the Cuore is lighther, but still.
Another thing could be the steering rack. I don’t know whether or not you changed that on either cars, but the stock Sirion rack is shorter (about 3.5 turns) than the stock Cuore rack (4.5 turns). I used the Sirion rack in my car, and you can really feel the difference when you get back in to a stock Cuore. When you turn the steering wheel, it simply doesn’t do all that much to the wheels until you’re hula-hooping for life. Your steering input isn’t what it used to be in the Sirion anymore.
I just re-read your Sirion topic and saw that your 195/50/15 wheels are mandated by regulations, which is a shame!
Another thing that came to mind, is that your camber gains are probably more aggressive because of the narrower suspension bits (lower control arms, shorter torsion beam on the rear axle). Bumpsteer could also be affected by the change of LCA/tie rod lengths. I’m not sure if all of this is part of what you’ve experienced on the track, but I’m certain that these bits are different compared to the Sirion.
The Shorter wheelbase should turn better. Too much rear grip and not enough weight transfer to the front. What are your spring rates? Chock the rear springs with a packer in one of the coils and see how that feels. Are your struts/dampers adjustable? How much bump travel does the front have? As Blyatsu mentioned it will feel better with a quicker rack.
Camber gain - check the static angle of the control arms. The control arm’s pivot points should slope downwards towards the outside. Yes a shorter arm will gain camber more quickly but the car will be a bit lighter and the camber gain is also dependant on, yep, spring rates. Keep the front rate close to std and the rear double or even triple std. The short rear beam should affect little since the back needs to be really stiff and wheel drop should be limited to promote lifting the inner rear wheel. If you lift the inner rear wheel that weight has to go somewhere and it transfers to the front diagnally. The outer rear wheel is the one that carries all the weight on the back.
I’m don’t know much about setting up a car, so I’ll leave that to the experts. One thing I will say is: You need a race seat! You can see in the on board video that you are bracing yourself against the steering wheel to keep yourself in place. Get a seat that can keep you in place and you will have an easier (and less tiring) time with your steering inputs.
That’s right… I need a race seat. The problem is that I wanted the interior to be as normal as possible. I already went through transforming a car to the point of not being able to use it on the street and I didn’t want the same now. But it’s true, I have a lot of trouble staying glued to the seat.
Regarding the suspension, basically it is the same as the Sirion, the Sirion weighed 800 kg at the end and the Mira should weigh only a little less thinking that it’s complete. What I feel the most is that the car twists, I’m going to start by placing the corresponding reinforcements to see if it improves.
I didn’t think steering rack issue was so critical. I preferred to install of the L700 than of the Sirion more than anything because of the l700 is not hydraulic. It seems that I’m wrong.
Lastly, get the car as low as possible but I agree with @Blyatsu that it seems to be high.
While it is definitely high the tall tire makes it hard to get it lower. You will need shorter front struts to keep the front control arms correct. The rear would need the axles moved upward, as opposed to just lowering it.
While a race seat is great, I get the “keeping it looking road”. As such my race car has a highly modified road seat. Pull off the fabric and weld in quite a bit of extra bolstering. Plus add a diagonal brace on the opposite side to the adjuster. If you are not sure what I mean, sit in the seat and push back hard. The seat will twist. Stop the twist and add even a short brace. Add a six point harness, get one with clip in ends so you only need to have it in on race day.
Nearly four turns lock-to-lock will be an issue. You can turn the hydraulic Sirion unit into manual non-power steer.
(which I’m not)
