Here we go again, now a L700

Hello everyone, so long absent … the truth was a difficult year that little and nothing was carried out of my projects that i had in mind. Normally, as happens in difficult years, people take shelter in family or work and leave other things aside. I’m not the exception.

Although this damn pandemic has not happened completely, I think for mental health that it was time to do something … and well I present to me “something”.

I had already shown my intentions to change the little Sirion for an L7, in fact I bought one at the end of 2019 but I found this one and decided to make the change.

Here in Chile there are very few 3-door Miras and although the car is not in such good condition, it is not so bad for a 20-year-old car. (except the engine that looked like a fireplace)

The intention of this car is to replace the little Sirion but taking advantage of everything he learned from him and everything we fix or worsen depending on the point of view.

Basically it will be the typical change from ej to k3 but, a point, I need the car to be able to circulate moderately through the city, that means that it cannot be a full track car, so in many ways it will be an everyday car, even if isn’ t “my car” for daily use.

I just started with this project, the car was acquired on 12/29 and I started with it on 01/01, I don’t have much progress but at least I have some photos.

I hope to have progress between now and the next weekend, I want to have the engine mounted at the end of January.

A big bear hug to all


I loved your first build! I cant wait to see more of this one. :slight_smile:

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Fantastic. On seeing left-hand drive it gives me a little head spin and rechecks of what I am looking at.

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Hi everyone!

I don’t have much progress, actually, rather, many questions.

Well the first, I cleaned the whole interior, wash the carpet, changed the steering column, wash the Sirion seats (they fit perfectly) and put the sirion steering wheel

Another thing that I started to do was the dissarm of the sirion (it’s a mix between sadnes and anxiety) but it seems that the pandemic made it bad, the engine sounds strange so I think I am going to disarm it to review…

Now I only have questions
1.- Can the steering of mira be placed with sirion terminals? (Mira is mechanical and I prefer it over the hydraulic)
2.- If I place the sirion suspension arm, the car gain negative camber, everything works fine or should I correct something else?
3.- regarding the rear brakes, the axle is not compatible, right? I saw that it is better to change the brakes for the Sirion, I think I will go here initially (I bought the applause discs but I don’t think I will make the change for now)
4.- I will put the spoiler of the sirion … it seems to fit, has someone done it?
5.- This is more of a request … someone will have for sale a pair of cheap headlight for sale? I had to ask. :upside_down_face:

A big bear hug to all

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Loving the start of this project thread…

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  1. Change the whole rack, they are both nearly 4 turns lock to lock here. I used Toyota’s ae86 (short pinion) or aw11 (long pinion) for 2.5 turns lock to lock. Steering will be faster. Watch pivot of rack ends up the same to reduce bump steer. You will need to swap method of attaching to the K frame and the splines to the steering column need a hybrid universal.

  2. You will gain too much neg camber. Adjustable tops should be enough.

  3. Put the Sirion rear wheel cylinders in they are bigger bore and will give more rear brake.

  4. Sure

  5. anyone got some?


the second point is the one that interests me the most of all. What does mean too much neg camber? -5° o more? I have Adjustable tops, but I don’t know if it can correct enough… To be honest I want to take advantage of the suspension, bushings and others suspension parts of the little sirion


-5 deg is prob as much as you’ll ever need. With the longer arms you’ll need to longer drive shafts. If the cradle is not the same length then you’ll need custom shafts. I’d prefer to gain more neg camber with slotting the top strut to knuckle holes on the strut lower bracket.

the sirion rack is too long.
same with the lower arms
better to use mira versions for proper suspension alignment
if you want stronger then get dsport spherical bearings and uprated bushings makes a massive difference
sirion shocks are too long - frankly the mira ones are too. if you can get copen ones cheap enough then good. otherwise better to get after market ones or stick with mira and short springs
steering rack is best mira. better to use a quickener than stuff around with other racks. is a lot of work and often suggested by people who havent tried to do it themselves and count the hours taken to get out there
most important is that you get it finished and start burning some fuel!

Steering rack swap is indeed a big task. I have done this and by the time I figured out Toyota AE86 or AW11 (allows steering wheel moved rearward 25-30mm as it is the same as AE86 but has a longer pinion) was the best fit the cost had got out of hand. The cradle (K frame) rack mounts have to be removed and either new ones made or Toyota ones fitted (passenger side is easily fabricated). To use the Mira steering column a splined hybrid steering universals needs to be made from the union of a Toyota end, Dai end and the universal from either. Adding a Quiafe quick rack and pinion to the interals bought the turns lock to lock to 1.5 with a bit more steering angle to boot. The rack ends need to be spaced out a bit also to reduce bump steer (female rack end socket, female tie rod socket [both the same thread dia and pitch] and bridge the two with a high quality thread that enagages at least two and half times diameter, and a spacer goes bewteen the two). Essentially, the rod end centre should be be the same distance appart as the distance between the control arms pivots. The steering quickner is a much easier solution if legal or not worried about what is legal. Definitely go the less stuffing around route and be out burning fuel rather than working on the car.

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