Hello! Pretty new here, but I have followed a few DIY postings here with much joy, keeping my Daihatsu going. I am starting a question about horn switch issue on YRV 2001 non turbo, Japanese import. . . I’ve narrowed it down to the steering switch (horn works connected direct from the battery - but only 1 out of 10 tries connected proper and using the switch (different places, different pressure ) the horn emits occasional short beep. So I need to take the steering cover off and clean it or something - but a bit scared of the air-bag contraption etc - is there any good links for doing this repair specific to YRV ? According to a wiring diagram - there is horn relay at the switch - they are not in either of the fuse boxes. . does this mean relay may also be culprit? But where is it?? Any help will be appreciated - as my WoF coming up pretty soon! Thank you!
not sure about relay and where it is. If you are worried about the airbag then you can always disconnect the batter when you take off the steering wheel cover. If you have the factory stereo just ensure you have the code for it before disconnecting the battery.
Thank you! Taking out the air bag was easy, with battery disconnected as you say, two T30 screws easily accessed from both sides released the unit. Found the ground wire from the horn and able to test the switch - which worked fine - perfect connectivity, when the front plate pressed. This meant checking the next link - which turned out to be the clock spring unit - which required taking off the steering wheel. Easy with 19mm socket. Not forgetting to mark the position before removal. 4 screws secure the clock spring unit - and was able to access the horn ground wire behind it. perfect connectivity - whatever the position of the spring - so further I need to dig. The ground cable comes out of the turn Indicator and wiper/lights stalk switch (17A762 ) and disappears behind a circuit board. I can see a relay - Taiko CRX250 - which will probably be the wiper relay? Now - I am not too comfortable taking the circuit board out, as the stalk mechanism are complex and once dismantled, I may not be able to put it back together. I am sure there will be a faulty relay behind it - but I can not see it. I’ve tested it with battery connected - shorting the ground wire and the horn intermittently sounds - then stops, with ticking noise consistent with faulty relay. I am thinking three possible next step: 1. go ahead and take this apart and see if I can find and resolder new relay. 2. Find a second hand stalk unit and try my luck. 3. create an alternative circuit using this ground wire and fresh generic relay mounted elsewhere. I am thinking may be 3. . . . Any thoughts on this will be welcomed - never imagined a simple horn woe could take me this deep. . .
I would go with option 3 if it was me.
Be extremely careful with pulling the wheel off. Maybe you know this maybe not, leave the nut on a few threads if pulling the wheel to save smacking yourself in the face. Most come off with some violent wiggling back and forward. Push at 3am and pull at 9pm at the same time. Keep the wheel dead straight and ensure the airbag mech behind the wheel stays centred. Must go back together perfectly clocked. It’s the most reluctant thing a suspension shop wants to do.
Mr Gormsby- my favourite teacher! Danny Mulheron‘s classic, wasn’t that popular in NZ, seen and appreciated by more people over the ditch, where all good NZ satire thrives! Thanks for the warning and good advice on leaving the nut on. And thanks for the vote for #3 option evil highway - it’s good to get a second opinion when working alone. I’ve identified the ground cable to horn coming off the back of the unit (there were two Green Black cables in the bunch - so checked the circuit and found the right one. ) I bypassed the relay inside the unit and connected it direct to the thin wire plugged to the clock spring. Tested the switch and horn beeped. I’ve resisted the temptation to leave it at that -( probably started fire in the clock spring unit if impatient in a traffic jam) and put a $8 generic relay from jay car right next to the horn unit. Good wiring instructions on YouTube. I’m particularly happy the original switch on steering wheel works this way. Other YouTube tutorials used separate button and circuits- necessitating extra wires and a hole on the fire wall. I’m writing this in the queue at VTNZ, wish me luck!
There may be relays behind the glove box. Before you get to those, I would pull out any suspected relay, before pushing a horn button. As soon as no horn operation becomes evident, I’d switch that suspected relay with another of equivalent rating. Often enough, a relay’s cover is removable, facilitating inspection and granting access to a corroded or burnt point set of which could get cleansed, using a thin point file