How to install a L200 TRXX Cluster into a TRXX

FrAsErTaG · April 7, 2017, 11:00am

This information was ported from original daiforum.net
I am not the original creator of this information, this was created by Levi

Levi:

Hey everyone, I’d just like to share a guide that I recently compiled.

This is to install a TR-XX instrument cluster into an L200S Mira.
For the uninformed, this is a highly desirable upgrade as you will have a fully functional, fantastic looking tacho!

When I first began the installation for myself, I found there was little, to no information online to assist in the process.

So after some severe head-scratching, several hours on the verge of rage-quit and a single blown fuse thrown in for kicks…the task was done.

To hopefully spare others’ the torture (especially those with a lack in electrical confidence) of figuring it all out, I decided to put together this guide.

This is for the manual version only, but I dare say there would be significant similarities with the automatic version also. There will also be some variations between certain models which may or may not have the seatbelt warning light for example…anyways…enjoy!

If you don’t have a wiring connector to use with the TR-XX cluster, you can just connect the wires directly to their locations on the cluster itself.

You must first extend all of the wires from the body loom as they will be far too short to reach the cluster comfortably.

For example, the Yellow w/Blue wire for the fuel signal, can be attached to the screw directly next to the letters ‘FU’.

The Yellow wire for the Temperature signal, can be attached to the screw directly next to the letters ‘TU’.

Below is an example of the wires connected. I used the same colour wires as it’s all I had at the time.

I hope this rough guide has been helpful to you, feel free to let me know in the comments if it has. This is all of my own work and photos.

You may share this link and photos wherever it may be of use, on the condition that all credit remain solely mine.

Cheers, Levi.

Gummby · April 8, 2017, 4:32am

Thanks so much, this guide will be a big help. I assume wire 17 to the ignition coil is what drives the tach? Also did you just solder wires 2 and 4 to each connector ribbon tab?

FrAsErTaG · April 8, 2017, 5:32am

Sorry mate as listed above I didn’t write this guide I just ported it over from the old forum

The guide was done by @Levi

Levi · April 8, 2017, 10:41am

Yeah dude coil is tacho signal and I did indeed solder them straight on. Like I said, be careful with it as the circuit board can tear easily

Gummby · April 10, 2017, 9:06am

thanks, I wired up all the spots but 2 and 4 yesterday. And when I tested, I just tried connecting ignition, the ground and individual parts, like illumination/indicator etc. Will the cluster function at all without without a connection to the diodes/grey box thing?

Levi · April 10, 2017, 9:37am

I actually think it will. From what I remember the grey thing is for catalytic converter temperature light. The white /red I believe is alternator charge light

Luke · January 28, 2018, 9:33am

Hi, for those wanting to use plugs and not go direct to the back i found out that L500 cluster plugs seem to fit perfect but you just need to repin and the colors are wrong but it’s a small thing when the plugs fit. also i have included a photo of what type of trxx cluster i did this on since they all seem the very, it’s a slight grey face.

evilhighway · March 4, 2019, 8:12am

@mjwalf have a look in here

Mokeman · May 22, 2021, 3:58am

Just done this in the topless, everything works but being that I have an EJ in it, looks like I will need an adaptor to get the tacho working as fro what I can find out the EF-EL gives a 12v signal whereas the EJ-DE gives a 5v signal. will keep everyone updated soon

Mr_Gormsby · May 23, 2021, 12:57am

I played around with resistors on mine but never got the trxx dash to work with the ejde

Mr_Gormsby · May 23, 2021, 9:53am

my old car that you have has the wires and plugs for a trxx as well as std dash.

evilhighway · May 23, 2021, 10:50am

I dont have either dash for it atm lol. I have been thinking of learning to use arduino’s and micro controller’s and making a dash display for it. There is heaps of learning online to do with how to but I must start at the beginning. I just received a small starter kit for my uno and intend to start as soon as I can get through a tutorial without interruption. I am also learning some other non-electric skills atm also.

Mr_Gormsby · May 23, 2021, 11:22am

You have the plugs if you or anyone wants them, and you could trace where they patch to.

evilhighway · May 23, 2021, 11:54am

were they for white or black? I have the black plugs in my other mira. They are different from what I worked out when i put my black one in.

Mr_Gormsby · May 25, 2021, 1:24am

Last trxx dash was black dials

evilhighway · May 25, 2021, 2:22am

thats good to know I have a black faced on here but the temp and fuel guage doesnt wok so i may test it on this to see if it was just my car or the instrument cluster.

Mokeman · May 26, 2021, 8:14pm

can’t help with those but this may help other bits

evilhighway · May 26, 2021, 8:57pm

I used a combo of everything here from memory. not all of it was spot on but enough to get it worked out and some trcing also.

Luke · May 27, 2021, 7:04am

if no value to you i’ll give you something for the black face plugs as mine is a paper weight

Mokeman · June 10, 2021, 8:08am

So I have installed the JRP Tacho Adapter, all wired properly and tested with a multimeter and still have no working tacho. Because I am not very knowledgeable with vehicle electrics, I am wondering as to people’s thoughts on if I might have to run a Tacho Booster Signal Adapter as well, this is from the JRP website.

Have you installed an aftermarket ECU in your pre 1995 car and noticed that the tacho signal output from your ECU is not able to drive your cars stock cluster tacho. Or changed your ignition system and its output is also giving you the same problem, the stock tacho is just not working. Well the reason is because in pre 1997 vehicles the stock tacho’s on cars used a much higher voltage to drive them than what an aftermarket ECU or replacement ignition system can output. The output from aftermarket ECU’s and most replacement ignition systems will be either a 5v or 12v square wave pulse and is just not enough volts to drive these older 24V & back EMF style factory tachos.

This is where these little JRP tacho booster signal adapters come in, you are able to feed the 5v or 12v output from your aftermarket ECU or ignition system, and these little boosters will convert this low voltage pulse signal to a high voltage signal which will drive the old factory tacho in your car. These little converters will output at least 48v and are capable of giving you a stable high voltage tacho signal that will drive any old stock cluster tachos.

It makes sense in a way to me, but wanting other people’s thoughts or experience.