Just removed the wheel of my Move that has been standing, brakes to dangerous to drive, so I started investigating…
Is this normal?
you’ve undone the castellated nut, which allows in-out movement so yes I would say that is normal.
If you re-tighten and stake the castellated nut then the splined end of the CV joint will re-engage with the corresponding splines on the inner hub and there will be no in-out movement (I would expect!)
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I agree with Granger. Just a little side note if possible. In future please do not upload vids to the forum. (if that is what is you have done) The reason we ask not to is it increases running cost’s really quick due to the storage of them. Please use something like youtube etc and imbed the video. I did not inspect your post as it I would have to use the edit feature to view it and I do not like to do that unless aboslutely necessary.
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Apologies. Its a GIF image quite alot smaller than a video, but point made, will refrain.
I checked on the other side with the shaft nut just as loose it does not move at all. Not sure what this means. Ill test by tightening the nut down and seeing if it still moves.
Another thing, when the wheels were on and car on the ground in neutral, i tried loosening the shaft nut but the entire shaft turned, i had to put it in 1st gear to be able to loosen the nut. Any ideas what this could mean?
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the last thing means that your drive shaft and cv’s are working. They go from the gearbox through to the wheelhub to turn the wheel.
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Im almost sure that on all the other cars Iv worked on, the axle doesnt move when I try to remove the axle nut with the wheels on the ground and in neutral. Could be wrong but having replaced a a pair of outer cvs on another car recently memory seems correct.
I was able to remove the nut from the other side like this, also the the other side with the axle nut loosened the assembly does not move like the side in the picture.
Also the other side has a machined hole in the part of the break disk that attaches to the hub, this side has no hole, the disk itself seems alot thicker also.
So im a bit stumped as to whats going on here, will do some more investigating when I get some time off.
Update: finger tightened the nut and the assembly stops moving, so it seems the nut was loose causing the wheel the shake dangerously.
I’d personally suggest inspecting the drive splines on that hub now. As if the axle was able to move independently of the hub it may have ground away the splines. I’ve had that happen previously on that style front suspension, definitely would install a new cotter pin in the axle so it can’t loosen itself again. And, if you have a impact wrench/gun some blue chemical thread-lock would work well with the new cotter pin.
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So since this, I have taken everything off the car except for the engine and gearbox.
The shafts look fine just 1 torn cv boot.
The rack ends both sides completely unusable.
The ball joints also finished both sides.
Explains alot about the vague steering and vibrations experienced through the steering wheel.
On to the wheel hubs, they are 2 seperate peices that seem to work by the shaft nut binding them together? Not sure if explaining this correctly, but the hub carrier has a bearing and the brakedisk and hub also have one bearing, they are forced together by the main shaft nut. They are 2 seperate parts on the shaft that just rub up against each other?
Never dealt with a setup like this, makes it most crucial that the torques on that nut do not come out.
The PO did some strange things like not chiseling the nuts down( if thats the correct term), or even torqing them to spec, along with random sized nuts used, one castled one without, so im just trying to understand what im dealing with here.
Thanks for the advice really helps alot
Your actual hub holds the splines the axle meshes with. That hub has the 4 bolts that hold the brake rotor on. But yes, the axle nut needs to be tightened down correctly or you can potentially have the wheel come off by the caliper bolts snapping then the entire hub/brake wheel assembly is free to go where it pleases.
And you’re lucky you have disc brakes .
If this was a drum brake front end you loose your tyre and brake drum, loose brakes and only have a handbrake that works on the opposite corner as the car dives down and lifts the rear up in the corner.
This I know from experience having my first L60 (L55) an early import model with a four speed and drum brakes all round.
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