Yeah the model prefix if fitted with EJ-DE/VE should be l251 . Sold here in australia as the charade L251. Australia EJ-DE euro EJ-VE.
Utimately I would like a Sadev. I look occasionally. About 5000euros for the used ones that I think would suit.
So apparently some guy in Malaysia has put a mr2 box on one of these wish i could do that, that would handle some power
So many topic starters in here
I hope you guys keep playing with this stuff
I can’t stress enough how much performance you can get out of the car by improving ratios. How much performance it unlocks can be quite amazing and the reason I love doing it so much is because it’s increasing efficiency rather than stress
So I’ve looked into the ej boxes a bit. (Apologies on the code error. I get confused with L2 talk and forget the new charade is L2 as well)
There are a few concerns. But mainly that they’re made a lot smaller and don’t handle the power
But you can do a Frankenstein build and make their ratios fit in the k3 casing. But the ej casing themselves won’t fit
Personally I don’t think it’s worth fiddling even the k3 box too much cause I’m breaking them even with the k3ve2 engines
Plus it depends how handy you are in gearbox work. But for me I’m paying a guru to assemble mine cause I’ve ruined too many and it really peeves me when I’ve taken all the time to put the box back in and something isn’t quite right
So in that thought I find replacing anything with less quality parts is painful. He seems why I do final drive switch and general syncros etc otherwise I only update gears and ratios to a better than factory set up
i may have spoken to him. is an interesting concept although haven’t found anyone who can actually say it works permission to speak frankly
- best i’ve seen is casing on the floor of a garage and read and heared a lot of chatter
chasing rumors around Malaysia seems like a wild goose chase tbh
there’s also a chap in thailand who makes gears who is a total hack job
in my opinion if you’re spending all that money then it should shift like a dream
from what time i’ve spent looking into it all - i’ve seen nothing but rubbish
i’ve looked at the six speeds anyway - and my main issue is that they’re very small gears squished in there
when i replace i’d prefer to go without syncros and have a wider tooth made of better material so it’s got capability on its side as much as possible
they sure are sweet!
but i have spoken to a couple of lads out here that have used them in custom builds and they don’t speak all that well of them actually
plus waiting for spares is apparently a nightmare - very much get the feel that they’re low priority in the bottom of the world
in my opinion it’s too custom as well - i’d rather spend that budget on a new gearset, stock casing to not go too custom - just concentrate on really nice ratio’s that are strong and are carefully and cleverly engineered to do the job
i’ve been driving a compact motorsport set and in all honesty i am a seriously picky customer. but so far have been nothing but super impressed
I’d really like to be able to change diff ratios without doing box swaps. Another part of me says get a transaxle box. But rule wise one ends up only being a motokhana special
All these things sound great, but my budget is quite small. On my side of the world, where everyone drive Mercedes and BMWs the daihatsus are not worth fixing. Ebay is flooded with gearboxes from various models and often around the 100€ mark. Im looking to buy one or two different boxes and play around a bit to get a better final drive and possibly get 1 2 3 a bit closer together. If I can do it for 200 bucks, even if it means I have to baby it a bit during launches and gear changes, im willing to give it a shot. If the information about the L250 ratios is correct then I would attempt to use 2nd from an L250 with a final from a copen or ej sirion. But im a tight ass, I dont want to fork out 100 bucks for an L250 box without knowing 100% if It has the part/s I need
Also worth mentioning, @KuetheMotorsport has used an EJ box in his rally car, only swapped the bellhousing. He said the diff basket from the K3 box was a better deaign, the EJ basket broke to pieces after a few launches, so the K3 basket was fitted with the EJ ringgear and has been going well since.
you’re confusing me
oh you mean once you’ve swapped to the sadev then it’s an easy ratio change?
yeah i guess that’s an advantage
but a world of problems to go with it?
first stage you could swap in an L7 casing with better FD?
I think you run massive wheels too huh?
you’ve got a bit to work through
Back to topic
"what are the options when converting a YRV turbo to a manual. Mainly if there’s a box that will fit the K engine and withstand the torque of the stock (maybe modified in the future) engine."
Other k3 box is the only casing you can use
They hold up OK with the stock engine - going to be down to how much you look after it and what life it’s had previous to you
Inside they are basically all the same build wise
If you’re going to modify them - first stage is a replacement final drive to bring all the ratio’s back to a better range
Also running smaller wheels - I run 13’s and it transforms it
If you go to modify then 3rd will start hating you
Personally I think the compact motorsport kit is the best around. from hot street up to serious race - individual gears to replace your broken stuff out to balsl out high torque I can’t find better anywhere for spec
good luck with the build bro. great territory you’re getting into there!
Diff ratio is able to be swapped without pulling the box apart, and possibly while in the car. When I used the car last I was swapping between a tall diff ratio box and low diff throughout the year. I know I need to just restart the work on it without extra fiddling with stuff like non dai boxes.
sheesh big commitment
what if you got a better FD so you could swap between wheel sizes to get the change you need?
i realise from reading your comments, that you need some work on convincing grip levels not coming from larger diameter tyres
but i used to do this combo with my last race car - going between 15/16" and different offsets and widths to adjust grip and ratio rather than comrades who had almost a different box for different circuit
also convincing myself that some of the difference i could drive around than tune around [cheaper too ]
looking forward to reading how you get on with this one
Will be a while before I get back into it. Space to work is a big issue and I need to finish off some projects (I’m getting there) and bring the Mira back from being shoved in a corner. The 15" wheels had a lot to do with the size of good rubber that is available. There is nothing in 14" and limited options in 13". I last used Nangkang AR1s, have some old softs in Advan 048 and Hankook Ventus softs - all are 195 or 205 55 15. It’s a big jump to go back to 185 50 13 but would work for motokhana. I’m racing the Subaru at the moment and should perhaps leave it for hillclimb and just leave the Daihatsu set up for Khanacross and motokhana. In hindsight I should have a 4wd ute, good trailer and have built a bike powered tube chassis thing akin to a Radical or West. The problem solving so far though I have enjoyed, but I like competing more.
I found the ratios on a page with car specs, for the other Daihatsu models I looked at it was correct, so I would believe it. To be sure though I would look into some L250 manual. I searched through some german service manual I found online, but found nothing. Maybe a user manual could have the spec info.
Wow, great Post!!
I think it has been one of the best discussions I’ve read, it hurts that I do not have much to contribute apart from that. As all, I need to shorten the relations of gearbox. At least I know that if I get a gearbox of M100 1.0 I can shorten the 4th, 5th and final ratio on my Sirion.
Hi, just note that as it turns out these two gearboxes are not the same, so the 1.0 will not bolt up to the 1.3 engine.
Should just be the housing that is diff?
Bell housing is different, but the box needs to be more or less completely disassembled to change the bell housing.