L2 Nugget build

So finally got the L2 home, leaking water from a kinked hose as the previous owner by passed the heater core due to some problem.

Missed out on buying a donor vehicle, now can’t decide whether to get the car on road as it is and drive it round a bit or to strip and prep it for the eventual ej-de.

Me and the kids will be working on it to get it on road, but it’ll just be a fun little daily.

Probably first things off the block:

  1. Wash and clean
  2. Fix the kinked hose and keep it bypassed
  3. Quick service
  4. Fix the idle hunt, my Mech friend thinks it’s the temp hose to the throttle body which has been removed due to the heater core bypass.


Does this sound right?

M100 front struts
M100 front brakes
M100 front rotors
M100 front hubs
L700 front control arms

Is there anything I’m missing from that? Mr Gormsby and Mokeman mentioned that I could go to sirion brakes all round, but just realised that the rears are drum as well. What do I need for the rear conversion, grab everything from it?

Do I also use the rear suspension from the sirion?
Will sirion / cuore lowred springs and struts fit the l200?

Also with my ej-de conversion, I’m going to be using:
Ef-el gearbox
Ef-el flywheel (lightened)
Efel cvs/shafts
Upgraded pressure plate
Non immobilised Sirion ecu
Engine loom, do I use the complete thing?
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel return line - I assume this is run under the car
Throttle adapter

Do I need any bits attached around the motor that’s around the engine bay from the donor car?

Battery terminals are original l200 yeah?

Starting to think this is going to all above my head :upside_down_face:

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Is the original engine a carby?

Nah it’s fuel injected, which makes it a lot easier apparently.

Yeah think that means you don’t have to muck about with fuel tank stuff, might need to upgrade the pump but I’m not sure on that one

Drums from the L200, you need the inner bearing. It gets swapped into the M100 drum. Make sure you put the crush tubes back in.

No the rear suspension from the M100 is completely different and will not fit.

Lowered Sirion/Cuore springs go into Sirion Cuore struts and they mount to the Sirion/Cuore hub/knuckle which attaches to the L700 control arm at the bottom and the strut tower at the top.

Yes the full Sirion engine loom gets used.

Original battery terminals, yes.

One Sirion/Cuore drive shaft (the really long one) will need to be shortened.

Std pump would supply enough fuel if in good condition. I had trouble at one stage with the strainer that attaches to the pump getting clogged up. I have since upgraded to a pump from an Apprilia RSV4.

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Thanks @Mr_Gormsby I’ve been reading through your thread and searching trying to learn what I need to do to fit the ej and the suspension in.

Your thread is a wealth of knowledge, but some of it is over my head as I don’t have access to any machining tools or much experience in the racing scene, I’m just a diy kinda guy but willing to give it a crack and learn a thing or three.

Yeah I read how at the motorkhana it got clogged, I think my pump is in good condition, but I’ll keep the sirion one just in case. @ewdwan the standard pump should be enough for the ej-de, just when fitting the ej you need to run a fpr and a return line back to the tank.

I noticed that you said I would need to shorten the longer sirion axle, would that then mean that I can use the sirion axles in the ef-el gearbox? Or use the ej gearbox instead? I guess I can try and test fit it when I get the chance.

Thanks again

I have to admit I have forgotten which shaft just slipped in. It was either the short shaft from a Sirion or from an Cuore. The long side on mine received a jackshaft set up so it has a short shaft whereas you will need a longer one, but not as long as either the long Sirion or long Cuore. Typically people just cut it (remove the correct amount, get a tube machined up for a perfect sliding fit, mount in the car and ensure at full suspension travel (up and down) and through turn angles that the cvs neither bottom out nor want to overextend thus pulling apart. When you are happy, mark the lengths, pull it out and have it welded. Ef-el gearbox will be easier. I’ve put an ej box into an L700 and there is a lot more mucking around. For motorsport I recommend the L700 ej box as it has “better” ratios and is a lot stronger. One day I’ll do that to mine.

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Ah sweet, yeah I’ve read that fitting the ej box is more difficult. I’ll leave that for another time I guess and shortening the axle I’ll probably need to find someone who has done it before when the time comes.

You’ve given me good info to get my head around it, now just need to start prepping for the eventual ej swap.

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keen to see this come along.

So just some ramblings and a record of some findings I made:

  1. The splines on the l700 axles fit the hubs of the l200
  2. You can’t just swap l700 brakes on to an l200
  3. You can’t swap l700 and l200 front suspension, as the bit that connects the bottom of the suspension to knuckle thing on the l700 is bigger. I was planning to reuse my coilovers on the l700 knuckle but I’ll need to elongate the holes
  1. Perhaps that is what I did many year ago.
  2. Brake swap means the whole hub/steering knuckle from the donor vehicle has to go with the set up. L200 hub/steering knuckle are a dangerous design anyway.
  3. Yes, the strut from L200 has a bolt flange that is different. Not sure what you mean in the first part of the sentence, “as the bit that connects the bottom of the suspension to knuckle thing on the l700 is bigger”. The L700 control arm is longer, but it has the right ball joint to connect either Sirion or Cuore hub/steering khuckle. Being a longer arm works well to bring the negative camber into the right ball park".

Thanks Gormsby, yeah I was just experimenting to see what fits just for my own knowledge.

The bit I was trying to explain was the bolt flange, I had no idea what it was called.

I think I’ll be doing the suspension, hub and brake swap in the first instance.

Whilst searching whether the l200 sway bar fits I found this gem of info from daiharris build

"But if you’re following along on facey you will know that for some stepid reason I measured the hole distance for the uprights and thought they were the same L700 and L200 and they are not… So my L200 coilovers were not a straight bolt up to the L700 hubs…

Thrn a lovely man FortisD suggested I just drill the holes out since It was only off by about 4mm so I whipped the Dremel out and away I went."

I have the same problem and I just remembered that derku told me the same thing but I was imagining something different.

The sway bar will bend that 4 or so mm to fit the L700 arms. Have a look at my build, somewhere there are pics of how I modified it for a bit more castor.

I have cut flanges off and replaced them. It does involve pulling the strut apart to reweld. The donor flange can be new plates that are cut from 3mm plate and butt welded on or I’ve used another strut and cut/bored the leg out of the centre.
Top strut in the image is L200. Note the lower one has the flange from a m100 welded on, and slid up 20mm from the base. This lets you lower the car but retain more bump travel.

I remember seeing that picture in your thread, I do not have the skills to cut and reweld so i’ll have a go with boring out the holes , it’s only the one hole too, so it should be ok.

I will be reusing the coilovers that came with the car, they’ll be a big improvement over the sirion struts.

i’ll check your thread again for that swaybar info, thanks Gormsby, how’s progress on your car going?

Rather than boring just one hole, spilt the difference and file 2mm off both sides. I did not even do that the first time (prior to adding the castor), just put all together really loose (control arms floppy) and tighten all little by little.

Zero progress on the actual car. Some health woes was the first barrier, space to work always a barrier (working on that) and now doing the HP Academy course on race car wiring in prep to rewire the whole thing doing away with all fuses and relay such that all control will be solid state.

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That’s a good idea with boring, I shall do that once I get the struts off the sirion.

Hope you’re well now and can sort out the space issues, I see that if you ain’t working on the Mira you’ve got the race car to work on.

So a little bit of work was done on Sunday, I removed a bunch a stuff from the l700 wreck and moved it out to get picked up.

I also took off the lower control arms for the 4x100 conversion but noticed that they’re weeping grease so will need to get that fixed and retrofitted the l700 cup holders to the first din in the l200.

I’ll do a little write up later on for what I did with that.

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Yes, racing a Subaru Liberty wagon. Even if I don’t finish high for the I am nearly always the fastest station wagon (or only wagon). Fairly quick for a road car with Bilstein PSS9 suspension, STI Brembo brakes, good tires and a warm ej25. Next event is the CAMS club challenge. Really due for a new engine. Have all the bits for new build and spare long motor, just need time. Yeah, health wise doing better. Have gotten back into racing MTB XC, doing well enough to finish in the front group for 50-60yrs.

Keen to see your L200 going again.

Nice goodies on that subie!

I really need to get out of the house, been meaning to start mountain biking but just not bothered at the moment.

The L2 is currently running. I need to remove the ej from the sirion and give it a refresh with water pump and timing belt change, are there any seals and bearings I would need to change whilst the motor is out?

Here’s my take on cup holders in to a L2.
*L7 cup holders
*bracket was cut down
*initially bracket was fitted right way up, but it sat the cup holder too low and wouldn’t line up for the screw holes
*bracket was flipped and swapped to the other side
*screw holes now lined up and it was in a perfect placement
*drilled holes out of the bracket so that the screws could pinch the bracket (no pic)

Photos on imgur