I started with a EFEL engine with fuel injection which makes the process easier as I have read, because you don’t have to convert to EFI.
I’m using the stock fuel pump with a FPR set to 41PSI T’d off the feed line to the fuel rail and then to the regulator being the return.
In the photo, the plug that has the tape covering is plugged into the stock relay box in the engine bay for the EF-EL. On the plug the BLK/WHT which controls the fuel pump and the BLK/YEL which is a switched 12V wire.
The middle plug on the EJDE has the three wires for powering the ECU, the wire for switching the fuel pump and the tacho, speed sensor and check engine light wires.
Pins 9 and 10 are BLK/YEL wires and need to be connected to Switched 12V. Pin 8 is a BLK/ORA wire which needs to be connected to a constant 12V, constant 12V can be found on the ignition switch, use a multimeter and gently probe each of the connections until you found the constant 12V.
Also on the middle plug. Pin 53 which is a YEL/BLK wire, and it powers the check engine light, I forget exactly what wire I used for my L500 loom.
Using Pin 53 as a reference you can find Pin 28 and Pin 27.
Pin 28, is a BLK wire with a silver dot, and powers the radiator fan relay. I connected this to a solid black on my Mira loom.
Pin 27 is the fuel pump switch wire, I wired this to the BLK/WHT wire on the fuse box plug.
In the green plug on the EJDE engine loom, the solid white wire and the BLK/YEL power the coils and injectors and these need to be connected to switched 12v.
Pin 29 which is a RED/YEL wire can be used as a tachometer reading, I wired this to my apexi rsm. Pin 30 right next to it, which is a BLU/RED wire is for the speed sensor, I might give a go at wiring this to the reed sensor on the back of my EF-EL cluster as I have a intermittent check engine light.
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Just to note, the car runs great and goes well. Although with how much extra power the car has when I have the money I’ll give a go at upgrading the suspension to the M100 set since it doesn’t feel very confident at stopping.
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That is probably one of the best wiring explanations I have heard and very useful indeed. Such a great write-up with a very well simply explained walkthrough. I will be referring to this again in future. even though I have already done this I haven’t documented it as I should of and this is a great reference.
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Thankyou! Just takes the guess work out of messing around and staring at the manuals for hours. If there is any more photos anyone might need I’d be more than happy to go and take a few.
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Finally got around to wiring the speed sensor wire from the cluster, traced both the sensor wires from my factory cluster.
The speed sensor runs off a BRWN wire with a silver dot and a GRN wire with a silver dot. Although the BRWN wire goes to somewhere unknown without pulling the dashboard apart.
I found that the GRN dotted wire comes out at the body plug that plugs into the factory EF-EL ECU, making it quite easy and you wouldn’t have to remove the cluster unless to replace globes. I tested the speed reading by wiring it to my APEXI RSM and it seems it reads a little quicker than what the speed is shown on the speedometer. But being a factory cluster, should make it a fair amount easier to properly wire in the EJDE swap without having a check engine light.
Tomorrow’s job is to go re-read my writings and sort out an additional wire that gives the reading to the EJ ECU 
Also grabbed a heap of goodies from a wrecked L700 that had only 50,000km. So new LCA’s, and hubs with good bearings. Also grabbed a couple free M100 axles and the long shaft is at the machine shop for shortening and re-splining. Found that GTVI brakes are the same as stock M100 meaning less hunting about, although L880K copen rotors and calipers are larger and give a better pad selection.
Overall just waiting for machining and sourcing various bits and pieces. If anyone has a clue on a set of coil-overs that aren’t incredibly expensive would be quite keen as my Mira is a pinch too low and scrapes everywhere 
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