hey peeps
wondering what version of the power steering / manual racks you guys are rocking
and along with that if you like/would change/know of / wonder of different versions?
my last two have used the stock sirion version and cut away some headlihght which i find annoying to do to be honest
one with a mira rack and the other with an adapted sirion rack which the latter is a total pest
now today am in the process of modding to a manual rack which i like the idea of the most i think?
but the curse being finding a replacement belt once the other bits are removed on the belt loop
thoughts appreciated.
Not sure what you are using your car for, but if you are doing rack swaps stay away from the horrendous 3.9 turns lock to lock of most Daihatsu racks. I fitted something from another Japanese manufacture (info in my build thread - please do not ask what the rack is). For what you are doing I’d have a look at some Toyota racks.
What are you using the car for?
I am using the sirion rack and sirion pump. Solution for not cutting the headlight is to fit a gino kit 
See what you mean with the Gino kit. But not going to suit my application
Really not going to work with cutting the headlight for our cert system either
For road and race cert it won’t work
Thanks for thoughts guys
But I need to be more clever and simple answer is out there I’m sure
1 Like
This Video is in German, you can turn on closed captions and auto translate to english
They used the 1 Litre Alternator, they have some videos of the build maybe they did something different for the headlight I am not sure… my internet is being pretty shitty so I can’t look through all the videos
the alternator is out the back - not sure why they would bother put that in
the issue i have is the front - because it sits so far forward that it would hit the headlight
you could fabricate a new backing to the headlamp and have something plastic welded up - but it would for sure be a pest to do …but maybe that’s one answer if you can get the length of the rack correct - which is the other pest - that the power steer rack is too long
but it seems no one on here is doing this work anyway - so not really worth much dialogue anyway i guess
Prob should just end it now then…
Was going to as what was wrong with an original power steer rack and fit lines but maybe it worth the effort
1 Like
sorry - was venting more at my own frustrations than anyone else
there’s quite a few issues actually
i’m trying to make up some conversion kits - cause i have a few mates who want to do this - but want the recipe planned out for them.
Plus i’m a bit peeved with how many bodgy conversions there are [in nz] and want it to be done right
I admit im a bit of a stickler for this kind of thing - but when i do this stuff, it’s worth doing right imo as i hate bouncing around with half arse jobs done and dangerous stuff
so the basic list so far
- converted rack doesnt bolt up to mira chassis correctly
- power steer pump doesnt fit into mira chassis without modification to LF headlamp
- mira power steer doesnt mate up to k3 engine
- length of power steer rack from other models [sirion./yrv] is incorrect - far too long
- some say that ratio of manual rack is bad
- if go with mnual rack - requires an aftermarket belt for the k3 engine - as it runs single belt for pump/steer/ac and there is no factory replacement for this - and currently i’ve spent 2 hours sitting with a gates rep to get a replacement that suits the size, but stil havent found something that will work
1 Like
Ah I get it.
Iv yet to try one of these yet so I can’t say here nor there about what your experiencing.
It would be awesome for your mates if you could get it all sorted and give them the secret recipe. Lol.
I also thought the same as you with the alternator in the video.
My Gino front also has had a lot cut from the original rad support panel but I can’t see why.
I wish I could shed some more light on things but I can’t.
I must admit your previous reply did seem like a bit of a insult to the rest of us but appreciate your rebuttle
As a person that has a K3 in an L700 and soon to be K3-VET (soon as in the next millennium) I found the perfect fix was to fit the Gino front end, but i already suggested that and understand importing/finding the bits to do so is pretty fiddly and expensive.
I also ridded the negative camber from the conversion by modifying the M101 swaybar, replacing the LCA’s, Driveshafts, tierod ends back to L700, I continue to run the Sirion Hub/Knuckle/Discs and Calipers although considering the Copen upgrade but also eyeing the discs and twinpot callipers @WoodWorx posted on Facebook, but this also leads to finding 15 inch wheels and a tyre combo that would work with the new found power.
I am currently having a lot of personal issues so work on the car is going to be a minimum for some time.
1 Like