L70 Speedo in L80

Help :frowning:
I am trying to install a L70 TRX Speedo into a EDM L80.
The Speedo came with a cut off interior wiring loom with only two plugs. I am missing one more plug. I know that this Speedo requires a rewiring bit without the matching plugs this will be a hard one.
The attached loom seems to be a L80 one, because it matches on the L80 Speedo, bit only only plug matches the L70V Speedo (the big one does not match)
Can anybody verify:
The myth says that only two plugs plus the Speedo cable are needed. If so who has parts of that wiring loom (L70) to sell?

Location: Germany


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while I can’t help much with info or plugs. I think if you can’t find any plugs you can always trace everything like what has been done with the L200 Trxx covervison’s. there just isnt many L70’s or L80’s in Australia anymore.

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I opened up both Speedos to see if I can swap the Platines, but they are very different both in shape and wiring…

The L70 TRX are very rare around the world, I have already contacted a few people on different platforms to get these plugs. I am currently checking if there’s a workaround or if I can find plugs that fit (the search for the needle in the haystack).

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You could also skip the plugs and simply solder wires to each printed circuit not connected to any available connector and, where required, connect a copper terminal to each of the guages.
A remote connector and harness can get added, in case your instrument pod needed complete removal from your vehicle

I might go with the connector solution. I would like to avoid soldering it directly on to the platine.

Here’s an example of what I needed to do for other reasons:

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Hi butch thanks for your solution, the responses to my inquiries about the L70V plugs are all negative. I will try your solution and I hope this almost 40 year old platines and solderings survive this action. For now I am working on a wiring diagram…

Thanks for your help :smiley:

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What’s important is good solder and perferably of the flux-core sort. A fiberglass pencil brush is best for cleansing surfaces to be soldered, without removing material.
Over here, stupid laws have prohibitted leaded solder, despite the fact that one could ventilate his workplace which only requires common sense. So, we get low-lead rubbish that doesen’t always stick, is difficult to work with and requires higher temperatures which aren’t the idealest for soldering printed circuits. Incidently, traditional solder is only allowed for wiring medical equipment which cannot risk functional interruption.
Hopefully, you don’t have globalized solder, over there. If real solder isn’t available, you could scavenge it from older device connections, being carefull not to inhale overheated bakelite gases emitted.
Many of those connetions on both instrument pods are visually obvious, not needing to get traced for designing a diagram, luckilly

No the diagram was very easy. I just used the workshop manual because I didn’t want to go outside and take the Speedo out (lazy me).

But I think Iam also very close on finding the right connectors. I have asked a friend for help and we found a large variety of automotive pin connectors that may have been used by Daihatsu in the late 80s.

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These seem to be the right pin connectors. We have also checked Sumimoto pin connectors but these one look like they fit. I hope that this Aussie shop sends it to Germany. I’ll try both solutions so it’ll work anyways.