With compression so equal: I’d not jump to headgasket failure or broken rings too quickly. Dud valve stem seals maybe. Easy to do in the car without pulling the head with a couple of special tools and an air compressor. Check PCV for being blocked (you say white gas out of dipstick hole, does the same come from the oil fill hole?). What you see are crank case gases, too much pressure inside pushes oil past things, in a perfect world you’d want to pull a vacuum on the inside so not pressure (go to comment about PCV and add “look at crank vent hose” that goes to tappet cover). Oil level not too high? Does it missfire?
Crank case needs to be venting. Check line from block to tappet cover is free flowing. Combustion always gets past the rings to make pressure the sump. Crank swings about splashing oil which mixes with combustion gases. To much pressure can mean some escaping back up via the rings as the piston rises. PCV should only draw combustion gases a idle when the engine is pulling vacuum.
Are you sure that spark plug is firing properly? Swap it. Does it have ignition leads of coil packs? Check these.
I’d go for a #1 cyl inlet valve oil seal change. Can be done without removing head. I’m a bit tired to explain right now. Have a google and see what you find?
Concerning rings, could be a broken compression ring too. Do you have a cheap borescope camera? Stick it down the bore and look for scratches.
In a pinch when I could not lift the engine out (engine and box together easiest) and only had the weekend before I had to drive it to work, pulled the head jacked the car/put on stands, removed the centre brace and pulled the sump. Covered the crank. The blocks are soft so 2-3 strokes with a three pad 220 hone (DO NOT USE A DINGLE BALL HONE) and 3-4 strokes with a 400 grit. Oil will sit in the 220 grooves and the 400 will just fix the edges of the 220. Oil sits in the 220 just enough to lube the compression rings. Cover the crank not only to stop rubbish but in case you hit it. Put a rag over the stones at first and practice at drill’s lowest speed. I use an air drill for super slow and best control. 45deg hatch. More passes more oil up. Less can cause ring chatter. Super clean with paper towel and not rag. Use assembly lube. If you want cheap mineral oil with absolutely no friction modifies. Dump the oil fairly soon and replace with run in oil (mineral only no friction modifiers or detergents). Drive neither on light or full throttle. Step hill is best and hold it at max torque or load it up driving on the brakes. You want max combustion pressure to push the compression rings outward. They will form most of their pattern for best seal in 20-40km. Keep some load on a few hundred k. Put good oil in.
Put some new plugs in. The orange around the bottom of the porcelain looks like they are burnt out. I don’t think that is oil on the plug. It’s carbon build up from not firing. New plugs ASAP.