Welcome. Looks like you had/have power steering and air con.
I imagine this is just going to be a street car? I’ll have a go at responding to things you mentioned in order.
EJDE is an excellent choice. It will probably have four times the torque of the ed10 and twice the power or more. You mention the supercharger. The std engine will benefit from an after market ECU and forced induction will need it. An AMR500 is to small for 998cc and will be a restrictor. They are damn noisy and the sound, while fun for a little bit, gets old quickly. They are a roots type blower and they do not make boost in a linear fashion, rather they move large volumes of air and will only do that well at one rpm range, above that the boost bleeds off. If you don’t believe me on this read up on them. The AMR500 has the edges of the lobes parallel. This gives a strong pulsing effect and the peak effect of this exacerbates the roots blower tendency to have air escape back around the outside of the lobes and this escape of air is why they are said not to make boost. The effect also makes a heap of heat. If you just want a supercharger to say you have one or are wanting to play with a SC, then ignore my words.
You have an ed10. The ed10 flywheel goes on the ejde. So you should be able to use your clutch and pressure plate. A std pressure plate from an ed10 or efel will not handle the torque of the ejde and will slip. An upgrade clutch is essential. Note the height of your pressure plate (PP) diaphragm fingers. If you have an upgraded PP some have fingers that sit lower. In this case the throwout bearing carrier needs to be spaced to bring the clutch fork to the right angle. Otherwise the pedal will be working right on the floor. I am not sure if the EJDE flywheel will fit inside your gearbox. Try it. The EJDE flywheel, clutch and PP are really heavy compared to an ED10 setup and will feel doughy.
Ignition barrel? Hmm, it would only need to be changed if the L80 can’t carry enough current to power the EJDE ecu. EFI does use a lot of amperage. Does the Sirion key have an immobiliser? I’ll come back to this.
You might be able to use the Sirion fuel set up. That would be the difficult route and takes away the one thing you can easy add to do a tiny bit of tuning. The Sirion will have a non-return fuel pump. I don’t think this pump and cradle will go/fit in your tank. My recommendation is to mod the fuel rail so it has a outlet. I drill and tap the end of them and run this to a rising rate fuel pressure regulator and then this goes into a fuel return line and back to the tank. If you have a intank fuel pump for the ed10 carb then swap this out for a small efi pump. I use a 255lph one which is huge for 998cc, even my modified one. With a std ecu the way to have a little tuneablity is with the adjustment on a fuel pressure regulator (note they have a vacuum line to equalise manifold pressure/vacuum against atmospheric pressure). Having a wide band O2 really helps move you find the right setting.
You could swap the whole loom over as is. It will be bulky. If you have an imboliser this could be the easiest way. I tend to use the Sirion engine loom, run it through the firewall to the ecu and use the body side harness plug and find the inputs and outputs from the body side you need. Not a lot goes to the dash (at least with the ones I’ve done) There is a pinout guide on the forum here if you do a search.
All the best Scoot.