Fitting the suspension again, took my time to check for any kind of play. Considering the entire front and rear is packed with new stuff (shocks/springs/control arms/balljoints/bushings etc.) there shouldn’t be any. Not pictured but for the sway bar I opted to get my hands on a copen front sway bar to prevent balljoint bind and keep the correct tracking and camber. To summarize it if you want the l700 tracking width and camber settings you need to keep your l700 cv’s, control arms, shocks and springs, hub carrier and a copen or modified sirion sway bar.
I did some test runs and visited a allignment shop to check for deviation and it was still bang on!
Next was the loom swap, to make it yourself a whole lot easier just swap the complete loom solder the rear part together, the wire colours for the rear and the sirion are the same, the remaining colours that remained were for electric windows and central locking for the rear doors from the sirion. I just unpinned these.!
The sirion fan resistor pack is pictured above on the right.
Remember to switch the fan resistor pack from the l700 for the sirion one, this lets you keep the sirion fan controls and prevents extra effort to wire the l700 fan controls into the new loom.
After that I started the car with no problems whatsoever. Runs great!
Starting to put the front end back on.
After putting everything back together I noticed the throttle cable being too long, so I shortened the cable and soldered a new cable end that I made from brass stock 6mm in diameter and 12mm long. Works fine now.
For the exhaust I kept the stock sirion one, the endpiece that goes over the rear axle is only a bit longer than the l700 one, so I went to see a mate that shortened the pipe and rewelded the stainless tip onto it.