My ''new'' red daily

[Aaron]

About a week and a half ago i bought this M2 YRV for 330,- EUR.
Fixed the rust where i bought the car ( and even got a job there now).

At first i didn’t really like the design of the YRV but it’s definitely growing on me.

She’s finally home!

It took a lot more then just welding the rocker panel.
Screwed around with the lambda sensors cause it showed a fault code for it. But i couldn’t get the emissions right.
After replacing the catalytic converter it was finally fine. However… The check engine light is still on .
So i’m thinking about buying 2 NEW lambda sensors.

Now it’s just a matter of installing the AC ,fixing the central locking and install a radio.
And maybe try to fix some of the little dents and scratches.

Btw, does anyone know how much refrigerant the AC system takes?

[Aaron]

A tiny little update…
Got a new rear view mirror as the old one seems to be delaminating.
And the cup holder was broken.

I also got some additive to try to reduce the oil consumption. I know it’s a long shot, but i don’t feel like rebuilding the engine right now.

If tomorrow the weather is acceptable i’ll make a start on the AC. Cause lately it’s either been unbearably hot or raining like crazy.
Also i just remembered i have a spare central locking kit. So i’ll try to find it.

In all honesty i’m really loving this car a lot more then i thought i would. My initial intent was to drive it for a couple of months and then sell it. But i’m starting to like it a little too much.

[Aaron]

Been really busy lately so nothing happened.
But today i made a start on the AC install.

I started on the switch. Pulled the plug that covers the hole and cut out the square.
The thing i love most about this install is that the wiring is already there, just like when i installed AC in my L7.

Then it was time for the evaporator core.
I strongly recommend removing the entire dash, but it’s possible to do it without removing the dash.
I did it without removing the dash and i regret it.

I did need to remove a bunch of bolts and a bracket.
Like the bolt in the top corner of the dash and the bolt that holds the airbag to the steel dash bar.
Also the plug was pretty difficult to connect.

Most of the AC lines are in as well. I capped of the open ends. Things like this is the reason why i save these caps every time i can. For now the lines are held back with cable ties until the condenser and compressor are fitted.

I’ll wait with the rest until i’ve run a tap through the holes for the compressor bracket.
The new belt should arrive tomorrow. If everything works out i should have a working AC next weekend.

[Aaron]

Ever since i got this car the clutch hasn’t been great. Sometimes the clutch is slipping quite badly. Occasionally even to the extent that when i try to accelerate that the rpm rises but noting else.

So i’m planning on chancing the clutch (obviously ).
Of course i’ll chance the crank seal while i’m there.

But i was wondering if i HAVE to remove the engine, gearbox and subframe in one piece in order to get the gearbox out? Or is there a beter/easier wasy?

[Mr_Gormsby]

Easiest (in my opinion and experience) is to pull the whole thing. There is not enough clearance to do just the box without having the car up really high and then dropping the K frame. I’ve not attempted box only in over twenty years and decades ago did try every method imaginable.

[FrAsErTaG]

It is possible to remove just the engine and gearbox without dropping the subframe.

Pop the lower control arms off the hubs, pull the inner side of the cv out of the gearbox, something to lever them is good but try still be gentle and have some patience.

Then disconnect everything, e.g radiator, break booster, wiring, clutch cable, accelerator, gearstick linkages etc

Then you have two engine mounts 1 front and 1 back and a gearbox mount, the rear one is a fair pain to get to and will be a slow turn by turn (tests your arm muscles holding them up in that tight spot).

Then you can crane it right out the front, once you have done this before you can do it easily in a few hours and a 6 pack

[Aaron]

When i’m going to tackle the clutch i want to fix the engine as well while it’s out.

There’s not much of a problem with the engine. It runs ok, but there’s a very loud low drone and when going back to idle it runs pretty rough for a little (almost like my L7 did when it was burning oil like it was fuel).
I recently checked the spark plugs and compression. The spark plugs look perfect (nice tan color). However the compression is much higher than the specified value in the workshop manual.

The specified value for compression is 10.79 bar with a allowable limit of 7.85 bar.
With a max. difference between the cylinders of 1.47 bar.
The values i measured were…
Cyl. 1 - 14 bar
Cyl. 2 - 13 bar
Cyl. 3 - 13 bar
Cyl. 4 - 14 bar

I’m not much of a expert on compression values, but it does seem a bit high. Especially considering the values given in the manual.
Which makes me think that the exhaust valves are not opening properly or even not opening at all.
Or might there be a totally different reason/problem.

I’d like to hear your ideas! Any help will be very much appreciated!

[evilhighway]

has the head been off and shaved b4? that can give a higher compression as it pushes everything closer. The exhaust valves will be opening at least to some extent but you maybe right and they maybe fairly cruddy and choking a bit?
I am definitely no expert but just some idea’s

[Aaron]

As far as i know the head has never been off. Plus i think the compression shouldn’t increase that much. But i never checked things like that when i did those jobs.
But tomorrow i’ll take a closer look to see if i can find any evidence of major work to the head or engine in general.