OK, started a thread about the stock L60
Been doing a bit since purchased Into the rust in the doors and hatch. Going to make all repairs as close to the factory as possible and remove all the rust in the car.
So far the only rust I have encountered is a couple of spots each side of the windscreen, (which I have patched but will repair properly when I pop the screen out), fuel filler area, the bottom of both doors and one side of the lower hatch. Apart from that I got lucky there’s non in the usual spots (based on the last two) at the bottom of the front wheel wells, sills, strut towers (a little surface rust, no structural) or rear quarters!
Not being critical , in one of your pic’s I noticed some of the weld is what called in the trade bird /chicken sh*t that will not hold .(trust me I’m the best in aus at it or so boilermaker mate says lol).
It’s the corner of a door. Not pretty repair wise but barely a structural point. Probably a good place to start for someone looking at welding panel steel.
Well, I just used what I had n hand, which is a flux cored mig. Couldn’t be fed getting the tig out, and I should have taken a pic of the lead wiping I did to finish the repair.
And I finished my trade in 1990, might look like shit, but holds it enough to finish with lead.
Strong enough to hold in place to finish, don’t forget this panel is a little thinner than your usual stuff at .6mm Tinfoil,
Any how, there’s f all structure in any part of a handi van Tin plate all the way and 1.2mm bumpers
Tarting about with rims Seeing if a 15x6 fits. Used a commodore rim and filled and redrilled the stud holes, which I will tidy up now I know they fit
Running a 195/45/15, might drop to a 165/45/15, but also need to change the offset a little to get them under the guards. Plenty of clearance otherwise.
Back fits well, no need to touch the offset