Hey everyone, I have a 98 Terios Kid JDM in Colorado.
Having just installed a new turbo I am having trouble and will likely need help! I am not a mechanic but I am interested in learning and getting this little car back in running shape. EF-DET motor and the J111G
Anyone stateside have experience with this motor/car?
I also just joined the FB group
Welcome to the Forum @jacobkoski. I cant help with much although I do have an EFDET just Australia has no Terios Kids. I think we have a few US member’s not sure in many or any have a terios kid though. Im sure someone on here may know something that may help with what you may need.
Man that looks so good.
Thanks! I love this little car but its running rough!
Hah, this must look like ufo in US. I bet you’ll make more buzz at meets with this kid terios, than those domestic muscles 
Edit: wat petrol do you use nowadays in US? I’ve stoped at era when americans fed jdms with 92 ron, when these needed high octane (most jdm allstars was tuned for 100octane) that was dead sentence.
We also had problem in EU with “eco” petrol. 95E10 uses some alcohol in the mix, some of my cars wont start after couple weeks of storing… :E
I havent gotten a chance to drive it too much yet! My last car was a Honda Z and it turned heads like crazy. I got this over the summer but have only recently started to give it attention. The highest octane (alcohol free) I can find is probably 95, maybe even 93. We call it “premium” haha. On FB I have been counseled to:
Verify all boost and vacuum and install hoses have no leaks (Hopefully I can source some new ones, the boost pipes especially are hard as rocks)
Check Compression (will have to learn how to do that!)
New spark plugs and new fuel filter (dont know where the spark plugs even are or where to buy new ones yet!)
On the Turbo Actuator solenoid I have the top nipple going to the actuator Tee and the bottom nipple going back to the intake hoses-can anyone verify this?
if you take off the intercooler then underneath that on the rocker cover is is a black plastic cover take that off and the coils and plugs are under there.. Actually before doing a compression test it may be worth testing the coils first. It will be the same as when you test leads but there is little plugs on the coils. When car is running just unplug one if it runs worse great, if not there may be an issue with that coil or sparkplug. Then do the same with the others but always have the other 2 connected when doing so.
Do this before doing a compression test. as far as the turbo actuator. I am guessing you mean the one that is close to the timing cover?
Ok very helpful- I love the “unplug it” method for testing.
Yes the Turbo solenoid im referring to is pretty close to the turbo itself. on the front right side of motor- ill try to get some pictures tomorrow.
My first task is going to be building a simple leak tester to hoseclamp on the front of turbo (in place of intake) and check for leaks with soapy water and a little psi. I hope I find some!! That would make a lot of sense.
Another weird condition: in taking off my turbo I had to unbolt the catalytic converter from the back side- it is quite rusty and rough looking- it has 1 (single) O2 sensor (shouldnt there be 2?) and the exhaust pipe was attached to the bottom of the catalytic with just one bolt -leaving a gaping leak there. Then the tail pipe was chopped off roughly around the drivers door??? I’m curious if all of that nonsense could have a part to play. I added a bolt to the Cat/Exhaust pipe connector to tighen it up and it honestly ran worse after I did that! Got me thinking the Cat could be plugged or something? Maybe I should try a straight pipe? And shouldnt there be an upstream AND a downstream O2 sensor? That could be a major issue perhaps?
In europe all terios are 4wd i think. This is pre-suv era.
It is still an efdet and knowing Daihatsu there will be a lot of similarities with the engine etc Obviously the gearbox setup will be different but most engine stuff will be the same. Why design a whole new engine when the one you have already works and just have different bolt on’s and maybe change the oil filter location. for example K3 engines are in sirion/storia, yrv and terios.
Thanks for the help and the pictures @evilhighway my routing is the same as yours for the little waste gate control lines (I assume the yellow capped one will go back to your intake when its put back on?)
Waiting for new spark plugs in the mail- will try testing the coils/plugs when I have new ones to replace with.
Also I broke my blow off valve vacuum line nipple! May try to epoxy a fix on it.
I built a leak tester and used a rubber fitting to hose clamp it on the turbo intake inlet. Still need to spend some more time pressuring and spraying soapy water with that but nothing real obvious yet.
Diverter valve (DV)
Blow off vents to atmosphere
Looks similar to other japanese cars of turbo era. I have identical from Probe GT (mazda 2.2l)
Anyway this is not necessary to idle/running. You can shut it completly till you’ll find new one, but surge will occur. Dont push too hard while deactivated
Finished testing boost system for leaks- nothing noticeable or large.
Reconnected everything (including new intake)
Started car and it still runs poorly. Very low power, runs with an audible chug-chug-chug sound. Smells rich like maybe gas smell in exhaust.
Waiting for new coils and spark plugs and fuel filter in the mail. Hopefully i.boughr the right fuel filter
sounds like its running on 2 maybe. I would be checking the coils and plugs like I suggested. Fuel may not be burning in one cylinder hence rich smell.
costs noting but time to test.
