Hi there chaps.
Joined way back in 2020 I think.
Realised that after making a post some time back that I have never said Hi.
So here we aređź‘Ť
I currently own two Daihatsu Charade L250s, one red and fairly beat looking and a nice metallic blue one, both 3 door.
At the moment am concentrating on sorting out the tatty red one.
Have replaced Clutch, cambelt, driveshafts, lower arms, trackrods and ends, discs and pads and suspension topmounts at front.
Just waiting for set of springs to turn up for the front so can get them fitted.
Due to the lack of parts/spares in the UK am trying to find other model daihatsu that I can pillage parts off if used or new parts that others may have used on their projects.
Currently on search for copen calipers and set coilovers, anti roll bars, strut brace from an earlier Mira/charade/cuore to try n settle the huge amount of body roll it has.
I find the body roll hilarious but passengers don’t feel the same way.
Any ways I think that’s a big enough Hi for now.
Will try n get some pics of my tatty mess up on here.
Any help on advice for parts from other vehicles would be greatly appreciated. Especially as far as ECU’s go as have a turbo and intercooler kit I have put together over past couple of years that am tempted to put on.
Anyhoo cheers for readingđź‘Ť
Just need time to make exhaust manifold
Welcome. Standalone ecu with closed loop O2. Megasquirt 3.0 assembled is about the min for “new” or go witha used Motec or Haltech (The versatile MicroSquirt ECU Version 3.0 ECU perfect for motorcycle utv). A caveat to that is if you have local tuner you want to use, go with what they are familiar with.
Concerning body roll. Think weight transfer. The front will need to be a “soft” as you can get away with. If you take “roll away” from the front then the inside wheel gets unweighted and wheel spin ensues under power and understeer occurs in turn in and transient conditions. The rear needs to be stiff as buggery. It should be so stiff as to knock rear passengers’ teeth out. If you can put the rear on one wheel (reduce downward rear travel actually helps handling) at the back through corners then the weight has to shift, well some of that weight transfer goes to the front, and the front is where you want grip. Soft front (close to the std rate) and two, three or four times the rate in the back. Remember that, sway bars are torsion bars and they link one side to the other. In effect they take independence away from one side and affects the other. Sway bars are advantageous when the ground is super smooth and cause problems as the surface gets rougher.
Great to hear from you, looking forward to the pics.
Looking forward to a build thread 
Welcome mate, good you finally said hi 