That one you have of mine should be revving to 6500-7000. The adjustable cam timing helps. The ef-el, the more you rev it the more ignition advance it needs. One gets to the point of 8500rpm and 30deg ignition advance and it falls over. Without that much advance it won’t rev. Torque falls down everywhere.
It probably does I haven’t had a tacho hooked up to it or if I did I don’t remember. I do remember it was damn good.
Was meaning to ask how you tinkered with it, would much rather play around with N/A things than jump immediately into forced induction, I currently have a 60 odd thou K EJDE in my L5. Looking to get a bit more power out of it. Standard ECU for the moment, currently limits at 6500RPM, though no more power past peak HP at 5500.
Sorry for the slow reply I’ve been quite ill.
Custom headers of my own make and design (no need to be equal on a 3cly just smoother), 1-3/4 exhaust kept very straight (no wheel wheel-just a flat floor and orig fuel tank cut down in half so 20l only) into a ZXR100rr titanium muffler, a light unsprung Jim Berry clutch and PP rated at 300hp, flywheel is around 2 point something kg for responsiveness, have a look at my thread for the inlet (long and any edge and every single edge bevelled to keep air flow laminar, modified a the alu cam timing wheel (hard to buy now I think) to be able to advance cams up to 10deg which lets it want to rev (think I settle on 7deg for the best drivability off idle), adjustable fuel pressure reg, play with diff injectors, run a wide band O2 meter and use the three to get the mixture as right as possible. Was going to: port the that head (don’t remove anything unless it if for blending edges smooth ports are big enough already; try ej-ve cams that I had; Suzkui GSXR 600 pistons of a certain year fit and are really short, they need new rods which I was about to have made by Argo and machine the piston tops flat. Super thing rings better for keeping temps and friction down and the longer rods help reduce piston acceleration for some more revs plus better cyl filling at low rpm. Didn’t get to look at it at all but I had a Triumph triple manifold that I made carbon trumpets for in an autoclave. By that time it would have needed a standalone ecu.
Revving and piston speed. The std stroke of an ejde is 60.5mm. At 12 000rpm it’s piston speed is 24.2m\s. That’s not even as fast as a Honda s2000 pistons. So they will rev in theory. I’ve not checked for the issue with 3cyl balance, but should not be a problem. Mine with some dicking about with the ignition timing should be able to rev to 8000rpm easily (I think I got that right as the cam belt pulley was indendpent to the timing trigger via slots in it. Otherwise advancing the pulley moves both and I only got to play with one variable). Week link about that is gong to be std rods and pistons, I think.
There were other little thing I played with on the engine but have forgotten. Would I do it again for a Mira - no. Too expensive as a it was also gong to need a Sadev gearbox of the like.
From memoery the intake was 130cm in length.
I also did get triumph itb throttle body on there and working on the stock ecu with bodged together manifold from a spare stock ej manifold. It worked so I made a 3d printed manifold and is still sitting on the ejde. currently I put the efdet ito see if it worked and it does just have never got around to changing back to the ejde. I will get there eventually.
Idk exactly but my Mira Gino revs to 8500 no problem with only 6-8ish psi of boost it is the efdet in it. What do you mean by doomed pistons ? Just that they can’t take much pressure or that they are going to blow up down the line. I also get the feeling that my engine can take way more beating than it can stock with a boost controller it will handle 10psi of boost but the ecu tells at me. Do any of y’all know if I can turn that off with the stock ecu or do I have to go standalone to interface at all. Do any obd2 programmers work with it if so witch ones
Sorry that is indecipherable.
The engine is a turbocharged ef-det that makes 7 psi of boost stock roughly.5 bar
I have attached a boost controller and pushed up to ten psi of boost with no adverse affects. The problem is whenever it hits ten psi the ecu cuts gas to the engine and drops my rpm’s to 3000.
I would love to know if there is any way to program the stock ecu to turn the speed and boost limiters off or if I have to go standalone to do that.
I would also love to know exactly what you mean by doomed pistons. Can they not handle much boost do they struggle to produce tourque do they bog down rpm’s?
Also the car revved to 8500 rpm’s bone stock. At least to my knowledge bone stock. However my engine bay looks wierd.
Does the car have two air intakes stock my air intake piping looks wierd as all hell. I have a stock looking airbox sitting drivers side of my engine bay but I also have the worlds smallest cold air intake that’s red and some form of wierd spaghetti piping conetiing those two intakes one of witch leads after my turbo but before the intercooler??? No clue what’s going on there
With these the bottom end will rev and rev but never make much torque (torque more so than power will make it more driveable and enjoyable). The super short stroke vs rod length in these produce a poor bore to stroke so not much cylinder filling. Putting that head on to a ed20 or ejde block makes them vastly more driveable. I spent a lot of time when I had no money putting all my know how, porting, machining and fab skills into one of these. The process was enjoyable but results not satisfactory. Head design is absolute rubbish. To get compression with the small capacity they used dome pistons. Unless you run nitromethane there is no explosion upon combustion in a petrol engine (I am going to type and not assume you background knowledge, please take no offence if you know something I write and if I am wrong please correct me [I am sitting in a hospital bed with a dud liver and kidneys that almost failed - so a bit of pain). Where the spark happens the fuel begins to burn with oxygen and causes pressure. This happens pretty much at a known rate and is not instantaneous like it is in diesels. When the high pressure evens out it pushes down on the piston.
Perhaps we do this in mini chapters. Read this and get back to me and we’ll move on (maybe next turbos to on the ef to make up for lousy porting shape/angle, the dumb 12 port exhaust most have and a chap on ignition timing, standalone ecus ).
A closing note I think the best turbo for a road and track dai would be a factory IHI VJ38 with variable exhaust vanes and no waste gate. These use big versions of these on all newer 911 Turbos (not sure about the GT2).
the efdet head is more like an ejde than it is the ef-el. It is twin cam like the efgl also. If you looked at a stock ejde and a stock efdet and bare engines it would be easy to get them mixed up if not looking at the height differences. Even the intakes are pretty much identical. stock figures put the efdet at 47kw and the ej at 40kw. However, we know the ej in the Gormsby L2 is much better. I will not dispute your knowledge Mr G as I know better and I know how in depth you get in your study and learning also took me a while to understand your teaching but when it clicked I understood. I learnt that through your teaching on rear disc conversion. It had me stumped for a while but when I saw it I then understood.
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Mr Evil is a few steeps above my model knowledge, so thank you Sir Evil. I had assumed EF like all EFs. The EFdet, should rev high. A limit will be the ecu and compression if they are indeed like an ejde. This latter engine will make 300plus rwhp on e98 wth std engine, custom manifolds, big Garrett, ecu etc (but will break ef-el gearboxes and and twist drive shuts and no be very driveable (use a VJ38 variable vane). 8:1 compression on the the DET will not help. Modern ECU will take a lot more. Don’t shortcut and expect a non-wide band ecu (ie factory) ecu to make is safe. Also the short stroke will kill torque and poor rod angle be poor for cylinder filling at tdc and bdc. Ignition will be happening really early on these to keep them safe. That means lots of combustion pressure builds at the wrong time and is almost over by the time the piston just goes past TDC. Won’t get the right push down on the piston but the early flame will stop knock. Get better more accurate control of when to squirt fuel, how much and when to ignite the plugs and you’ll make bigger safe power. That’s even without more boost. Would be great off throttle like that but run out of go in the mid range.
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I can kinda feel what you’re saying when I drive the car. It pulls honestly pretty nicely 4-6 3-7 k rpms but as soon as you go higher it just works harder without much speed increase. The little tiny bit of increased boost I get to feel from the engine before the cpu stops me also makes a noticeable difference in torque. My goal hp is only 100 though. Helps keep the car in a safer zone hopefully to daily.
I will get a standalone ecu I’ve just got to get my money together first I’m a little broke right now. I also really appreciate the knowledge breakdown Evan if I knew all of that (which I did not) it always helps to have a breakdown in good in depth terms.
From my understanding my goal should be to acquire an ecu of solid quality and work on air fuel ratio and engine timing to make more power.
Stock it runs very rich? And wastes gas and energy by ignighting early wasting kinetic energy before piston is in its downstroke.
Another question is how much boost is a safe limit stock and at what point do I need to look into rebuilding my engine for increased fortitude and better rods/pistons/flywheel etc. i also tend to run “nicer” gas in my car because of it having a turbo. The best unleaded gas I can acquire is 93 at the moment though.
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Also I hope you get better soon I’m sorry to here you are in the hospital
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While your “goal” is 100hp (and I understand that), don’t think HP but gaining torque. Torque will bring HP as
HP= force in pounds x distance in feet \ time in minutes
Where torque goes up so does power. Torque and power down lower will get you out of corners. High end power is for drag racing.
First thing to get is a Bosch LSU 4,9 sensor and weld in boos for the exhaust. Figure optimal mounting. Easiest to buy with a gauge. I can’t tell you the best gauge. I’ve had success with AEM (very thing for mounting), Innovate I find easier to read and on diesels I use JRP and will prob start using them on most things unless I want dual channel in one gauge. With that you need to put an adj fuel reg on. You’ll get a little tuning with a set up like that and adjust fuel pressure to go a bit leaner safely taking gauge readings across rpm and loads. The ECU is open loop and uses set parameters rather than adjusting fuel and ign to suit sensor inputs. It will have narrow band O2 and that’s an input, but it is for steady state driving and just stops mixture drift. So if rich it just maintains the setting and same if a good mixture or lean. It is not OBD2 as far as I know.
I’d like to try a Speedunio ECU. Look into ones with fuel and ign. Best value.
Higher octane is good. The flame is more consistent and will tolerate higher temps/comp where a lower oct will explode too early causing knock.
If you’ve not got cash for an ecu leave the engine work for now. First item will end up being a clutch and PP to handle all. They will start to slip as you approach that.
Boost is hard to talk about. A better variable is air density as it takes air temp into the equation. 10psi of boost and intake temps of 100c are very different to 10psi of 30c. This is an area prefer not to give advice. Need to know more and gather info from a running car and the knowing the turbo efficiency. There will be a point where they become inefficient making heat and have air bleeding back past the blades, the tips go spin too fast and the air pass the speed of sound and they won’t pump anything or too much of a number of variables cause them the turbines to fail. I like to start with a new or turbo I’ve had reconditioned. I pull factory used ones apart and port first (days of work), get a billet inducer verified to flow more than and find a inconnel exducer (rare), and then have my local turbo guy assemble and balance. I take a lot of his advice. The last couple I’ve done made std unit flow 7-10psi more at the same shaft speed. So a IHI VJ38 going from struggling to make 25psi to being really happy at 32psi with a bit more in it that we didn’t try. This is a VNT model and a turbo guy will put it back to together and map the vanes too.
thankyou heaps for replying, yeah I’ve been slowly messing around with similar mods as yours has, though I haven’t gone for an adjustable timing gear as I’ve heard many not so great things. I’ll definitely have to grab a better wideband so I see what afr’s it’s on an the sort.
I never really beat on it as with the ej box you’re a light pedal press from getting a 20 over fine. I was planning on going for forced induction on mine and hoping for just about 7000rpm at 10 ish psi that should in theory make a bit above 70kw. Which would be great as I live by some large hills.
2wd EJ box is good for 200hp+ drive shafts start to twist near 300hp. But I would be careful with the AWD one. Are they are jackshaft arrangement?
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