Hello I just picked up a 1999 Mira Gino turbo and wanted to know reliable ways to increase power without putting crazy stress on the motor or car. I’ve done some looking around and it seems like more boost is the way to do that. If I want to add more boost or get the car to the 80-100 hp range how should I go about this. I really want the car to remain very reliable while still gaining power I know this is kinda uncompromising but I feel like it should be possible.
I also want to say that I’m willing to go to higher complexity to try and achieve this instead of the easiest way to gain power I’m just looking for the most reliable
Welcome. Please post an introduction in the new people section to get others more interested in helping.
You say “reliable”, go with a standalone ECU with wideband O2. That alone will make more power over std with a tune. Knowing your mixtures requires this and is the only way to be reliable.
1 Like
Thank you I’ll look into that and do an introduction post. There’s not much documentation in America where I am and they became legal to import not long ago. Really just want any relevant info.
Is there a standalone Ecu that you trust in particular or do I just buy whatever works.
Motec is about the best you can get but you pay for it. Many cheaper options around. If you intend programming yourself look into ones with autotune which will require O2. Another almost essential option is data logging which will make tuning and problem solving easier. Otherwise have a look for you most local tuners and select something they are familiar with and or the one with most support since you will need to wire it in. The one off purchase of an ecu and install may pale in comparison to the price of two or three tunes. I prefer road tunes as you will load thing better and the bonnet is down and the car sees true airflow.
I think I would try to tune myself mostly out of necessity. Obviously after much research and I’ll probly just wait and save my money for the best stuff. I tend to take a long time but for a better end product. I’ve heard that an aftermarket intercooler can help is that true or just a waste
Maybe. Will depend on the install, quality or the type. Air to water are expensive but often really good as these allow short less complex piping and remote cooler mount. Bar and plate are better than tube and fin when it comes to air to air systems. Have you ever had your off to see if there is any oil in it? Give it a clean a non caustic degreaser. You may find something same height and width but deeper to fit the existing place. Some shrouding or better detailing of existing shrouding to max air flow through can help.
I just got a boost gauge to install where on the engine do I attach the vacuumed line to. I don’t know where the engine vacuumed line is to attach the gauge
I’m also getting a fuel air ration gauge as soon as I find the money that plus the boost gauge and boost contoller are where I’m going to start at.
2 Likes
any vaccum from the intake manifold
1 Like
Thank you boost Hague is attached and working car is making 8 psi of boost. Seems low but engine is small does that sound about right
2 Likes
So what engine is it in the gino? I am very curious on what it is. For some reason I thought you are running a jb-jl unless I am getting mixed up with another post?
I believe I have the turbo ef det in my car
1 Like
cool that actually helps me as I have one currently in my L200 and I didnt know what it boosted to . The car is in storage currently so I it would have been a long time to find out for me.
Being based on an EF, if it has domed pistons like the EF-EL it won’t take a lot of boost without knocking.
I havent seen the pistons before in one but the engine itself phyiscally resembles an ejde. and has the ejde style head. The efel engine’ssuch as the efel etc can rev a whole lot more than the ejde based on limiter’s. Like the ef’s in trxx’s etc would rev much more than the 5krm limit on an ejde. I have not hooked up either taco or boost guage to mine as yet but will do before the engine comes back out for information purposes.
The ejde is a much longer stroke and lots of torque while the efel is really short in stroke and gets to a point quite quickly where no matter how much more you rev it the thing just stops making any more power.
1 Like
you are right however I found the sweet spot around 7-7.5krpm with ef’s and franken’s so rev limit on ej is around 5-5.5krpm so that would be about right at a guess with peak power point.
1 Like