On the back of the rim it has 13x4.00B50. Is this right?
That’s true that the Move rims weren’t designed for rear calipers, that’s why I did a quick search for L5 rims and the rims I have never appeared. I’m guessing that was the reason that the Move alloy didn’t get to the L5 for that inner rim reason.
oh I looked again at the pics and it’s a long shot but how much would need to come off the caliper’s if you ground it back a touch. or would it be a big breach of integrity of the caliper?from the pic it looks like 1 - 2 mm
Took the angle grinder and took a few mm off the rear calipers and we now have clearance!
We are back in business!
New issue encountered is when I drive forward or reverse a single click is heard from the front and I can feel it when I’m slowly taking my foot off the clutch. The sound is more obvious when I take my foot of the clutch suddenly (as if I’m going to stall the car).
Also, I wish I had a hoist - lifting up the car repeatedly is getting annoying now. Sigh.
Do they fit on a hoist? They’d be a bit like my mini excavator, to narrow for a car trailer, falls between the ramps on a four post hoist and the legs on a two post would not swing far enough inward
Okay…this is going to be awkward…I’m back again after two years haha
Eight year project and counting…I blame work and lack of enthusiasm.
Nothing much has changed with the Move, still starts up with minimal fuss after a few litres of 98, but probs need new spark plugs as it requires a few cranks to get her started when it’s a cold start.
Just need to finish the interior, the interior electrics, the power windows and mirrors. Also to sort out the weird single click/clunk after the Move moves forwards or back from stationary. Not sure suspension or CV?
Hopefully it’s just wiring up the few things, popping the dash back, seats and all.
I finally found a wiring diagram for the power windows as the L601 only came with winding windows.
The L600 halfcut had power windows, so the wiring loom already had the necessary wiring to the passenger front and drivers side. As the donor was a halfcut the rear wiring loom was cut, but after probing the spare wires with the multimeter, I found the other wires.
Next thing on the wiring list will be the power mirrors - problem during the testing phase was finding the circuits and this caused the power mirror switch to fry. Buying a replacement switch is cheap ($6), but after adding the shipping to 3rd party, the commission and then shipping to AU generally pushes the price up to $40 range.
After that, it should be putting the dash back on and interior parts.