Why would a less restrictive catalyzer increase fuel consumption?
because of the ecu euro 4 programming.
- backpressure
- thermostat exactly 82C
Seems this ECU turns off the choke at 82C exactly and 80C will stay on
Euro4 stuff
Which device can measure backpressure, unless something got lost in the translation?
Backpressure, by definition, is the exhaust gas restriction caused by bends, turns and exhaust pipe diameter. The higher the backpressure, the less efficient an engine can run, reducing horsepower and fuel economy, raising the amount of the toxic emissions that the engine’s management system tries to reduce. That’s why exhaust designers attemptsto reduce as much backpressure as possible
Long story to be short the lambda senses on both sides so a front and rear after cat
If its not correct the flow
the ecu corrects it
Only Euro 4 and up has this
To be accurate the correct backpressure a NA engine has the better it runs not less
With a turbo car its no backpressure is best
A Lambda device isn’t a pressure regulator. In other words, it can only measure the contents of exhaust gas. The only time both Lambdas work together being able to detect when backpressure is too high is when a catylitic converter becomes excessively restricted, through contaminant-introduction such as through excessive oil-burning or running the engine on leaded fuel.
Euro 4 can be achieved with only one Lambda device, such as with even my ED-20. But, the injection system attached to it is comparitively simple, not requiring a second Lambda device. The disadvantage to having only one, however, is the inability to detect a clogged catylitic converter, until it’s too late. At that point, the expense of either replacing the converter’s contents or having the contents sent out for cleansing could overweigh any expense possibly caused by the added risk of introducing more electronic components for operating a dual Lambda ECU.
When I was working as a mechanic at a Saab, F.I.A.T. and Cadillac dealership in Detroit, we had a new Saab in the shop which caught fire, because the catylitic converter overheated, through an excessively rich fuel to air mixture. This happened on a second generation Saab 900 which replaced the 99. So, I’m guessing that the injection system on these were of quite an early design, given that not all engines needed catylitic converters to run clean, as soon as the catylitic converter mandate took effect. This was first applied to American cars, because of their engine designs dating back to the early 50’s on some of them, while European and Japanese designs were modern, running cleaner by default. Had that Saab 900 been equipped with dual Lambdas, it certainly would have not caught fire. Therefore, more complex systems indeed do have their advantages, obviously
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lets see whats not going right now
Thermostat or Catalyic converter
Seems the thermostat is not working properly.
At this mileage a year I think its ok
I have done 34000km in 2 years
Done many Germany Autobahn trips, 2 Spa track days, Luxemburg and Belgium hill up 6000rpm+ pulls
Looking at other Daihatsu Cuores also as road trips.
bought at 174400km and now 209200km
Engine oil consumption is now down to 0.3L on 8800km
Good ATF-5 old school trick works
Winter is even worse than now
OBD Only reads 77C and when quicker drive only 75C
I wanted to tackle the radiator as preventative maintenance so will do it together again with thermostat
sometimes I did in 2 weeks 2000km so its almost a commercial vehicle drive
At one point did in one day a 850km to move a workshop stuff around.
Was a New OEM Toyota one.
Will use this time a Calorstat 82C have good experience with it
OEM 82C is discontinued for the 1KR only 80C is left
This L276 keeps you busy doing nifty things
Starts runs well just small things left
The heat just made the clutch pedal feel sluggish will grease the end where it is in the gearbox side
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Oil changed, filter changed
Oil is really clean now dark caramel clear to look
DVVT screen mesh cleaned
Breather hose broke replaced temporarily with a vacuum one
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Fixed 3rd interior light wiring seems double shrink didnt work
Still corroded the soldering
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1KR-FE Ecu is really picky on Temperature
I changed to 82C back in for a Calorstat one and fuel consumption decreases after it immediately.
oem is discountinued only 80C degrees was available
I installed that and was running a little rich using more fuel
Replaced radiator also plastic cracked also while uninstalling
Replaced thermostat housing also as it is plastic
Fan holder tabs wont fit because of aftermarket
I have Put 2 screws inside will sort out later
So annoying its a Nissens
Will later make an adaptor for the tabs
Replaced antenna for a Materia one
See before and after exact same road flat no in or declins
Before:
After:
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Washed the car and its now clean again.
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Changed Cabin filter old one is dirty.
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You keep learning on Toyota weirdness
87138-0K090 > LHD blower resistor
87138-0K110 > RHD blower resistor
LHD
RHD
Since Daihatsu decided to use a RHD blower resistor have to buy this one
Otherwise Its possible need to rewire the plug by repinning
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Passed inspection no advisories
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Mileage corrected Mira speedometer and using it now
Move L150S corrected also 30000km more
Need to finish adapter loom
Mira speedo L275 used unit was at 149580km now its 210549km
Correcting up 61000km +/-
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Working good this cluster will blank the Automatic display off
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How did you manage to do that? This is why I trust only analog speedometers. At least, those of which have been tampered with leave visual signs of such.
I might end up buying a new digital VDO speedometer for my Suzuki. But at least then, I’ll know the correct milage that will get programmed into it
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I bought an used speedo and matched the old speedo mileage so its correct.
Its digital eep rom so not secured
Its not illegal to correct mileage to replace a broken speedometer or swap a different in
As long its the same mileage or higher
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The heat was insane last Friday
A/C is working perfectly
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