Hi guys i was wondering if anyone has or know anyone who has done this, that the whole rear end of the sirion gtvi converted onto the L700 is this possible to have the wider wheel base im just wondering?
Sorry if this is stupid just interested in learning more.
Might be up to you to pioneer it. I would think there will be at least cutting of the inner rear wheel arch to keep travel. Plus do you plan to leave the front std track? A lot of effort to make it work, but if you are just after image/looks I am sure you can get what you want, but from a driveablity point I see much stuffing around to ge tit to work.
I wouldn’t try to do it now will finish what i set out to do initially, was thinking this would provide better handling, also dont care about the look i only care if it’s clean and performs well. Also it would have the front of the GTVI.
Just something im curious about if done properly would it make for better handling or won’t there be a difference.
Std front springs, a degree or two of neg camber and stiffen the rear to three or even four times the std rate. Test whether this works using pckers in the rear springs, you’ll be amazed.
Thanks for the advice and always being so helpful ill give it a go.
i’ve done a mock up with this and nothing looked like it was going to work
the chassis is around 50mm wider
plus so far i’ve only been impressed with the mira handling with settings like what Mr_Gormsby has said
plus I wouldn’t use the whole front end of the sirion - or you’ll be making the chassis worse trying to make the front 50mm wider as well
bottom arms will bind and suffer
much better to run custom sway bar and lower arms then can actually tune grip and ride height into it
…that all depending on how serious you want to go of course
When talking fairly major mods/changes on Miras, Curoes or Sirions I would strongly contend that it is the control arm/sway bar that needs altering. Having the sway bar do the work of radius rod is just cheap, nasty and anti-performance. They need either a proper radius rod with the sway bar decoupled from duties of wheel location but still coupled for load transfer. Or if not a radius rod a lower A arm for the strut. The sway bar position could be lowered for anti squat. But it still flexes in the centre/middle of the bar under acceleration and braking. When I had RX2 and RX3s I added a centre bush which fixed this a lot. But our bars are shaped such that this is not possible. On my L200 I have extra bushes as far inboard from the factory ones as possible. A custom bar with a straight centre section with a lowered mounting position to get some anti dive would allow a middle bush. But sway bar material is expensive and they are a pain to make, so I’ve not bothered, a probably never will. I’d rather an A arm.
Not all models are made equal though
The L7 is not the same as the L2 or m1 or m3 sirion
I agree with what you’re saying for a arm and detached sway bar being a great option
But I’ve seen a lot of L7 with m1 conversions in them and if you don’t address sway bar and lower arms as a starter then you’re going to all the effort to put a better engine in and destining suspension a heck of a lot. In fact in NZ it makes the car totally illegal and with the lower arms binding up because they’re put to such an extreme angle you basically have zero movement
The last one I saw literally had no suspension travel because the arm was stuck
Binding illegal here too.
Adding A arm or radius rod to detach sway bar as radius link is not something I would call simple, on anything. I would place such mods in the well advanced category.
So as I was saying …in the mean time to put custom sway bar arms and drive shafts which are a straight swap up to the sirion subframe in L7 chassis will at least mean it’s able to be vetted and work correctly
In fact I’m totally in love with mine!!
Such an awesome package if you better the final drive as well