Well I got board waiting for parts to arrive so went on a online shopping spree and got more parts??
Yeah not sure how that works or fixes my problem lol. A few bits and now coming from over east, NZ, and Japan. Wonder if they will get here before my other big parts?
I don’t love the buying of parts so much as the hunt for parts. The thrill of the hunt I guess.
That true especially for these cars. I was amazed when I found out cusco made a strut bar oh and the d sport lsd mmmm yeas please.
YES!!! New shocks and springs are finally here, all plans tonight have been cancelled I got some lowering to be done.
Springs and shocks are in.
I did take photos to show the height difference but my iPhone is being stupid and I can’t upload them.
Needless to say I’m glade I replaced it all as the old ones I pulled out where the original Daihatsu factory gear. I think with 220k on the clock they where more then over due for a change. Makes me think about the bushes and if I should look at replacing them.
Something a little funny I found out is this car has not been well looked after or serviced and yet when I dropped the gearbox oil it was less the 3 months old I would say. Of all the oils to change I found that a bit odd.
Old height
New height
Difference in front springs.
I noticed some of you have swapped out the tops on the front struts with cupon ones. Is there any benefits to doing it?
Looks 10x better on those springs. Interested to see how the handling changes
Cheers bro, i was a bit worried to start with as it didn’t appear to drop that much. But it’s looking better each day as they settle in. The handling is worlds apart it’s amazing. Before it would feel like it was almost going to roll over around a corner. Get up to 100kmph and it felt skittish as, now she’s rock solid. I can’t wait to get my new rims with brand new 195/55/15 rubber, I feel the chassis will be well sorted then for the power.
I have done that swap but i used the copen struts as well, the copen strut tops won’t fit your m100 unfortunately.
Ok interesting might give that mod a miss for now then and just look at new tops for what I have. When I get home from Bathurst I’ll go over all the rubbers and see if they need replacements.
Hay all I’m back.
Been missing due to recovering from a hash fever that came out of know where and attacked all my muscles and then the week after I had a operation that I’m still recovering from now but feel I’ll be right as rain later this week.
So update on the car:
Still running strong but do need to fix up my exhaust as it is clattering on the rear axle now the body is closer to the terra ferma.
My wheels arrived from Japan yay!!
Due to the above explanation they have been sitting in there boxes waiting for me to get better and mount up the tyres.
Well I finally did that today, managed to rope in my brother in law to help with the heavy lifting ( not that they are heavy) and got them all sorted out and my gosh do they look good. Really turn the car in to a hot hatch looking beast as opposed to a grandma car.
Sadly I still have to massage the rear end so they have some clearance and also have to order some slimmer wheel nuts. So maybe one more week and they will be on for good. While at least until I decide to paint them as there all a bit flaky.
I happy real happy and excited about this car now
It’s sitting right
Handling right
Starting to look right ( got a few more mods I want to do to the outside yet)
Now it’s time to focus on making to go right.
I am currently pricing up and designing a custom cat back exhaust that I will fab up myself, also contemplating getting a set of headers of woodworx.
Anyway that’s all for now
It is possible to get a wheel nut with a 17mm head. That’s what I run but I’ve gone to a M12x1.25 stud also.
Wow that is slimmed down. The ones I have coming are 19mm and retain the factory m12x1.5. They also have a inverted hex, so they are smooth and round on the outside and require a tool like a large Allen key to tighten and loosen them. Main reason for chosing them is just a extra level of theft deterrent.
What was the reasoning to go for the 1.25 thread?
Fine thread is less likely to come loose. Plus less force is needed to get the same clamping force. So my preference from years of motorsport.
cool I would of never thought of that, handy bit of info to know👍.
Coarse thread are best in castings (less likely to pull threads - Nissan have this right Daihatsu not so good), fine threads for bolted connections.
So for example a coarse thead would be good for something like a threaded stud going in to a engine block, and a fine thead is good for where you are using a nut to hold the tension (I.e a wheel nut holding a rim on)?
Exactly. Fine threads are also less likely to come loose. Rememer a 360 turn of an M10 x 1 moves 1mm whearas a single turn of a M10 x 1.75 goes 1.75mm. Your arm force on a 300mm bar turning either of these will make the fine thread clamp down hard - but it will need more turns until you get to that point.
I am so excited today!! Finally got my new wheels on . . . sort of.
I took the time today to clean the back of my ssr’s and took them in to work to be balance. (they where so dirty the wights couldn’t stick on properly.)
While I was in the workshop I decided to see how much of the rear I had to massage in order for the rims to fit. Long story short none. I was so motivated by this that I borrowed some wheel nuts off the shelf and mounted up the whole lot. The car rides mint with no scrubbing at all, man I am so happy. But as I said they are “sort of” on, to finish the job properly I still need to do the following things:
Use my own wheel nuts (in the mail still)
Install the hub-centric rings (ordered from Finland of all places and still in the mail)
Lastly I should still grind a few mills off the rear arm as the tire is only clearing it by about 3-4mm, once the shocks and springs settle a bit more I’m sure it will start rubbing over the bumps.
So I have my next mod already planned and I think y’all are going to like it. More of a mod for shits and giggles but still awesome.
Watch this space!!
hay @Mr_Gormsby,
I have been doing some reading on your build thread and I just wanted to clarify a theory with you before I go out and try it.
In relation to a cold air intake if I make it longer can get more low end torque?
So if I get some 50mm PVC pluming pipe and follow the red line in the picture below do you think I would get any improvement?
I was thinking to remove the stock air filter and replace it with a cone/pod filter at the end of the pipe as low in the front as possible to get it as long as I can with out picking up dirt.
What are your thoughts on this. Am I on the right track or way off?