Looks good to me. I’d start with that length. You can also extend right over towards the battery. Then after testing that drop the front section down to the lower edge of the bumper. How will you test for for improvement? I use a really steep hill and a tall gear. Do some runs at diff revs and see how it holds revs as the hill gets steeper (my hill ramps up to 18%). I’ve seen this tested on the dyno with other cars and works a treat.
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Awesome thank you. The hardest part is going to be finding a steep hill lol. Living in the desert everything is flat and straight, I do have one small incline I might be able to make work. As my car has no tachometer could I use the same test but go off the speedometer? Or will I have to install a tacho?
Choose a tall gear and see if it holds speed. Careful on subjective things. A change in sound, such as hearing an aggressive induction roar can have you think it is better. You could also try an app and do some standing starts or rolling acceleration (the latter holding the one gear). I should prob do the “app” thing more often but I live right on the side of a little mountain and “steep” is on the door step.
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A general rule of thumb is 13" long for 6000rpm, subtract 1.7" for every 1000 rpm higher you want an increase or add 1.7" for every 1000rpm lower you want an increase. For pipe diameter the general rule is cross sectional area of the pipe 25% larger than the cross sectional area of the throttle body. These are just guides to establish a starting point
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Smaller pipe diameter should increase torque. I saw a 20 foot long pipe attached to a car on a dyno. Killed power off but incredible torque. Length has an effect on air inertia, and there will be a perfect length for a given engine to pulse tune to induction frequency [more effective on ITB] (air going in hits a valve and sends a sonic pulse back out the pipe which upon reaching the atmosphere pulses back, done right the pulse is timed to occur at valve inlet/exhaust overlap and will keep some pressure in the cylinder [two strokes do this with an expansion chamber and taper wall reflection})
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So my sh!t$ and giggles mod arrived earlier in the week and while it has taken longer then I thought to install but it’s done now.
Heres a little clue for y’all
Yea I think we all know where this is going hehe. Sadly i am out of town for a few days and won’t be able to take a photo in all its glory at night till Tuesday.
Yep. I went all fast and furious on it lol. Just in time for Christmas so the local kids are going to love it 
. Full RGB 5050 leds with remote control colour change.
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I wanted to jazz up the interior a lil bit so decided to swap out the steering wheel. I have a air bag model so any nice nardi or mono was out of the question so decided to look at other higher spec dai’s. Yea Ozzy delivery stuff is bland. So I started to search overseas and found this tidy unit.
Extra points if you can guess what it’s off.
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Gino? Same as mine but not sure.
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That is indeed the same wheel. I assumed I had looked at all the dai versions, but the Gino slipped my mind darn it.
There a nice wheel hey. I never thought I would like woodgrain. I love how it’s actual wood and leather.
Better than my mums BMW! That’s plastic! Haha.
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Oh yea that’s for sure, it has a real nice feel. So this one is off a jdm m100 Toyota duet. I love how it was a direct fit and has the Toyota symbol just the add that bit of confusion lol. I was almost tempted to get all the matching wood grain trim but Decided that might of been a bit to much haha.
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well I finally got the trifecta today: all the parts I need, the time to do it, and lastly the motivation. Today I designed my new cold air intake with the knowledge I got off Mr Gormsby and mick.
Phase 1: Control
I mapped out a short test road around the block that included the only incline on a road for like a 50+km radius of my house. Got a feel for how the car performed in different gears at different points around the “track.”
Phase 2: out with the old and in with the new.
Haha Yea I couldn’t find all my bends in the beginning so just made this work to test the theory. So closed the bonnet and off I went up the hill. First impression pulling in 3rd gear was good, marginal put good. Oh and it sounded better 
. I didn’t get above 30km/h as the bonnet wasn’t held down at all.
Phase 3: take two
Found all the bits and managed to route it so the cone filter was down low in front of the engine to get the most cold air and get the pipe as long as possible.
Came out alright I feel. Doing the 3rd gear pull up the hill was inconclusive as the difference may of just been my sloppy technique on the clutch. But taking off from a intersection like normal it appears the get up the 50km/h not just faster but with more oomph. It does feel a lot nicer.
Phase 4: finishing touches
I will run with this set up for awhile to see how it holds up. While also looking into upgrading to a larger TB (any ideas?) and finding a more appropriately sized pipe to Match the TB in alu or s/s. Until then watch this space.
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Looking good!
Personally I wouldnt aim for a bigger throttle Body unless improving top end power at the cost of torque is your aim, and im sure Mr G would agree.
In my opinion the best bang for buck mods for a stock Motor would be a) what you have allready done with the intake and b) extractors. I would imagine there should be some locally avaliable perhaps through Pacemaker, otherwise you have tonnes of Options from Japan, Malaysia, Indonisia and so on.
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Larger throttle body will be of no use on stock motor, for extractors or a alloy intake ask @WoodWorx , Tom can get just about anything for these motors from Malaysia new or if on Facebook look up Rhys Timothy Dall, pretty sure he had some for about $100
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These are the $200 ones that I sell, get in contact on our Facebook page or inbox me for more information
$200 is not bad bro, is it possible to get a pic of the underside so I am able to see what is needed to attach it to the rest of the exhaust?
Same as standard manifold which makes it easier
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Note the poor fitment on #1 where the header does not meet anywhere near 90deg. So yeah, cheap Malaysian stuff from this person’s facebook page. Please prove me wrong by moving the advertisement to the correct “for sale” section of the forum and show some different angles and prove that major die grinding is not needed inside the ports due to mismatch of flange to pipe or poor welds. Length of primaries and size of collector would be useful too for anyone considering a set of these.
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Any more than 1 or 2mm diameter will not help and feel worse. Better to match port all connections, mill butterfly pivot, add counter sunk screws and add a 7deg or less taper to the TB inlet in a lathe. Find an online calc to figure out your exhaust primary length (look for stuff on V6). Sight diff in length of primaries won’t matter much as a 3cyl will not benefit from equal length or from a true collector as the 120deg between combustion events mean no pulse tuning. I run wide band O2 and was fairly picky with where my sensor would be located, so if you figure that is important watch for that location.
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