Like all headers no matter the brand, they are not a bolt on item and requires a little fiddling to get the most potential.
If you want every single hp out of a set of headers you would have to make them yourself like @Mr_Gormsby said but these are currently the only off the shelf headers for these cars currently available in Australia.
At the end of the day it’s up to the owner of the car on what they decide.
Everyone has their own opinions and not everyone has access to welders, lathes and tools to do it their self.
I’m simply trying to help out a fellow Daihatsu owner, feel free to inbox me on the forum and I can share more information.
So much information by all thank you. So TB will be staying stock now as I do not have the tools to pull off what @Mr_Gormsby is advising, my level of engineering is not there (yet).
Time to spend time on research I think.
Going to look in to the best materials to replace my intake pipe with and make it the correct length and diameter. At the moment I am using 50mm pipe at about 1m long in total. If I use the formula @Mick posted above the diameter needs to just under 45mm and then to work out where the length needs to sit I need to read a bit more.
Then its on to exhaust.
Mild steel 1"7/8 cat back system made by yours truly. I may end up making a set of headers in the future but I need to improve my welding skills as the whole collector part confuses me, So will have to practice on that.
And I think thats about all for now, my build funds are starting to run a bit low so may be awhile till any of this gets done but we will get there.
I just want to say a big thank you to everyone who has given me advice and daihatsu guidance, there is a lot I have learnt from you all and I will treasure the knowledge always.
Have a look at the pics of mine. The silicone bends I use have a more gradual radius. See if you can’t come straight off the TB and omit the factory rubber. Smaller diameter will increase torque as air speed will increase and the air charge will have more inertia.
All up a great effort there on your part. I spent days mucking around like you are. Was great learning.
The formula I posted had 2 parts, for the diameter and for length.
In regards to the length, this rule of thumb is all about achieving resonance (pulse tuning) but it is intended for 4cylinder engines. I’m not sure how it works with 3cylinder engines.
Perhaps Mr G could elaborate more on the topic or point you in the direction of some good reading material.
A great read, and has given me much food for though - any updates?
Did you end up having to grind away any metal to make the rears fit after any further settling of the suspension?
Hi mate sorry it has taken so long to reply, work has been crazy and any spare time I have is spent with the kids.
I haven’t updated anything as I am quite happy with the way she drives and handles at the moment, its near perfect for my needs. major thing really is a tidy up of some wires and trim pieces, and most likely a new clutch very soon as the current one is starting to slip under acceleration.
As for the rear suspension, I still check my clearances at least once a week. Although the inside of the wheel only has a few mm to spare, there is still no damage to the tires. But the out side of the wheel is a different story. I have had to roll the guards as they where cutting in to the tires. I bit the bullet and brought a guard roller, ten minutes later all was good and is still all good. A few rub marks inside the guard as well but nothing to serious.
I went for my first road trip with it the other day. Drove to the next town over for work which is 120km away and she didn’t miss a beat, even got up to 125kmh stable as. When I first got the car I didn’t dare go over 80kmh as it felt like I was driving on ice it was all over the show.
