So far i have replaced the front lower control arms, cleaned the pcv valve and done an oil change tho unfortunately it burns oil past 5k on high mileage 15w-50 plus some lucas so i think it needs rings. It currently has a p1346 and i suspect i need to clean out the VVT solenoid or buy a new one as it doesn’t show symptoms of crank angle sensor.
As for plans for this car? OEM+ I want to keep it clean and close to original and take care of it. I will probably put some new shocks and some lowering springs and drive it for the rest of my life if possible!
Unfortunately sirions tend to be parts cars for other daihatsu’s, Gtvi’s for the k3ve2 in an L700 or the stock 3cyl sirions for the ejde in L2,5 and 600’s.
This is a common problem which can be solved with a common remedy. At least one oil change has been postponed too long, resulting in piston ring drain-clogging through varnish deposits.
What needs to be done is to remove the problem piston and then run a drill bit through the clogged ports behind the rings. No new rings necessary, unless the vehicle has excessively high milage. In which case, preventative cylinder retrification would be feasable
That would depend on previous owners’ or owner’s maintenance and driving habits. Piston-varnishing isn’t exactly an inspiring sign and the most wear an engine can experience is between cold start-up and having reached operating temperature. If the or all of the previous owners had a habit of driving the vehicle recklessly hard, during warm-up, doing so for 234k would likely warrant a preventative rebuild. The best way to quickly judge rebuilding or not would be to remove the valve cover and observe camshaft wear. If those look rough, you’d be better off doing them and that’ll give you easy access to pistons and bearings.
I once purchased a used ED-20 which was labeled to have had 194k, before it was extracted. The camshaft looked almost new, compared to my worn-out original which had only about 115k:
Of course, I’m not sure if that wasn’t a replacement engine or not, given that the vehicle’s odometer has no way of knowing. The piston to bore wear, however, looks like it has noticable side wear, indicating prolong periods of high-speed operation, since that’s when piston speed is at its highest. Whether the wear is excessive or not would be better off determining through measure and not simply visually
The sellar babied the car apparently didn’t ever take it above 5k so I think that also might have something to do with it, I don’t think they tagged on it hard when cold, tho it was sitting for 9+ months before I bought it so I’m hoping it’s just a case of oil settling and degrading in the passageways.
Sorry for thread hijack - can this be done without removing the cylinderhead? Will the piston come out from below or is the crank in the way? As a fellow K3-VE2 owner with oil consumption issues I’d be keen to try this - whats the easiest way to get at the pistons in order to drill out the drain hole?
it would be head off and sump off. Your pistons will need to go in through the top. It would be very tricky taking them out through the bottom firstly and not sure how you would get them back in through the bottom.
I replaced the Brake rotors so the annoying judder is gone and i gave him his nose (Front Badge) back, but more importantly i PASSED MY P TEST I CAN FINALLY DRIVE HER ALONE! … also i swear i own more than one shirt… lol
Should be relatively easy for them, since it used to be a stocked item, though may be more expensive than what they were before. The benefit here is that you can specify spring rates / height etc - so instead of ‘getting what they give you’, you can change it up. This is important as a lot of off the shelf kits have rear spring rates that are generally too soft.
Of course, if the budget is there, then BC Racing Coilovers are (i think) the cheapest/easiest entry into coilovers for the M1xx series. With the added cost, at least you get to set the ride height where you want.
Another option, since the AUD:Yen is pretty decent, is to jump on Buyee or any of the platforms to buy from Yahoo Auctions - they have some spring kits that would suit. The box would be large-ish, so with shipping it might not be that economical. Can also search via the Toyota Duet on those platforms, or the M100A / M101S / or via engine codes.
