Monday i returned the wrecker engine and got a full refund no questions asked. And shortly after that i brought my old cylinder block to the machineshop.
I could’ve taken the engine from the Sirion. But i just want it done properly now, i’m tired of running risks with wrecker engines. I’ve had to many bad experiences with them.
Picked up the cylinder block from the machineshop earlier today.
He said that the cylinders were perfectly in spec and the bearing shells were in great condition as well.
However, the piston rings were completely shot. The pistons practically fell out when he got the rod caps off.
The bearing shells and piston rings were replaced and the block and pistons were cleaned.
Took the valves out of the head yesterday. But i was to busy with work so no progress today.
Got all the parts and materials in today and i have nothing important to do at work tomorrow, so i hope to get most of it done tomorrow.
Didn’t get as far as i hoped i would. Cause it got too warm and i got exhausted.
I did clean the valves and the exhaust ports, put new valve stem seals in, put the head back together and bolted it to the block and put the timing belt and cover on.
I’m really happy i remembered to put a bolt in the cam gear before i took it apart. I learned that lesson the hard way on a Toyota 1KD diesel engine a while back.
The shorter cam (the intake) has a special gear that consists of 2 separate gears with a fairly strong spring inside. It’s to take up any slack between the intake and exhaust cam gears (mostly during acceleration and deceleration).
If you take the cams out without that bolt in there and then put it back like that, the system won’t work and you’ll have additional and unwanted noises coming from the engine. Plus the gears and cams will wear out faster.
It’s a real pain to rewind spring and there’s a big chance you’ll break the cam while rewinding it if you do it wrong or hold the cam wrong.
The bolt you’ll have to use is a M5 with normal thread pitch which should be long enough to at least poke out the back of the gear.
When mounting the AC compressor i had to clean the threads. I’m so freaking happy i had the right taps (metric fine) on hand.
It’s also really great to have tap extensions so you can go past stuff like in my case an engine mount and oil filter.
Got her running again. But i didn’t get the whole car done.
Once the engine was in i found that the torque converter wasn’t completely seated when i wanted to put the bolts in, which caused it to bind and i couldn’t turn it over.
After taking the transmission off TWICE i finally succeeded.
Didn’t put the exhaust on yet but i can already hear that it’s running much better than it did before.
I pressurized the AC system to see if there were any leaks. Spend 2 freaking hours looking for a leak that wasn’t really there. The ‘‘leak’’ ended up being the connection between the hose and gauge manifold.
I’ll fill the AC with refrigerant on Tuesday.
When putting the bumper back on i had to use self drilling screws, because every bolt snapped of when removing the bumper. Even the radiator mount. The rust is the only thing i hate about Japanese cars.
Replaced the speakers as well cause the sound wasn’t what it could/should be.
Why would someone use normal electrical wire and solder it straight to the speaker?!
Filled the AC system with refrigerant and it works really nice.
It’s cold but not ICE cold, but that’s fine. It just feels so good to know when pushing that AC button that i installed it and that it works.
I just registered her again and got insurance.
So i’ll start driving her again tomorrow.
I’ll try to post the tutorial for retrofitting the AC on a L7 sometime this week.
Just out of curiosity… Does any of you guys know if there’re any L7’s with an automatic and AC?
I can only find manual L7’s with AC.
Did a little research… My L7 might be the only automatic with AC here in NL.
looking at the manual there are certain options never delivered in the LHD automatics in certain areas.
From what i can tell automatics also never came with powersteering, but i’m not really sure yet on that one.
Some do come with power windows and mirrors though.
On another note, i just saw a 1.3 HC Terios for sale for 550,- while i was looking for a parts car for the Cuore.
And i noticed that the seller is 1 of my uncles mates.
The reason it’s so cheap is because the belt snapped and the valves are bent.
If my uncle will let me store the car at his place until i fix it, then i’ll buy it.
I’ve been looking for a new 4WD since i wrecked my Niva a little while back.
If i get it it will purely be a weekend warrior (except for the rare few times i’ll need it for other stuff). As i’ll keep my Cuore as a daily.
I picked up a tow bar a few days back, complete with the wiring for 35,- EUR.
I hope to fit it soon.
The rubber bushes on my front anti roll bar (where it goes through the control arm) are shot.
But not a single parts store can get them. Can’t even find them on ebay. Does any of you guys know if there’s another make/model that has bushes that are similar enough?
Cause i’m afraid to call the dealer and hear what they cost there.
Replaced the anti roll bar bushes today with some used ones that are in great condition.
But the problem is still not solved. So i guess i’ll have to get it aligned.
The old bushes don’t even look that bad.
I want the exterior to look a little better. I’m getting tired of looking at the scratches all over her.
But i’m not sure yet how to do it. I was thinking about either wrapping or a roll on/spraycan paint job. Cause a professional paint job is just too expensive.
I like the reversibility of wrapping but it’s also a lot harder and a bit more expensive than a couple of paint cans.
I also want to make her look a little sportier. Other than cutting the bumper up a bit, do any of you guys have some more ideas to get a sportier look?