Hey all,
My mom drives a Trevis which according to the registries isn’t able to use E10 fuel. Does anyone knows why? What parts cause this model to not be able to use E10 since the later models are able. So what changed?
E95 prices are getting ridiculous (+€2 a liter now) so my mom is thinking of selling it to get a newer one that can handle E10.
I hope that anyone knows!
Unfortunately I don’t have any exact information, but according to a German service information flyer all Trevis from may 2008 / VIN JDAL651S000009008 onwards are E10 compatible. The flyer says that there was a conversion kit available for earlier models, so maybe you can get your hands on one or a dealer will have a list of what it consists of. I suspect it will be something minor that needs to be changed.
e10.pdf (116.4 KB)
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Okay thanks, now at least I know there is a chance. Am not able to find such a kit yet but I’ll make sure to check with the dealers in the hope they won’t rip me off (they will). At least, let’s hope that they know of such a kit… the dealers lack allot of knowledge.
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Ofcourse no dealer knows of a conversion kitt, apparently I’m the first one to ask… Does anyone have a link or some more information about the parts that needs to be changed? Maybe I can order those parts.
obviously, I can’t comment on your country but the cheaper petroleum in Australia is e10 which is either 94 or 91 octanes depending on the service station you go to. then we have a range on non-E fuels in 91,95 and 98 and then our the less available 85.
The worst fuel we have is by far e10 It burns quicker and over time ruins the rubber of fuel line thus creating clogging and blocking. The funny thing is most everyday driver’s use e10.
This probably doesn’t help at all with your question but I wonder if an ecu with a flex fuel reader would do what you need or a different ecu from another country that uses e10 to make sure your fuel ratio’s are correct.
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The cars runs just fine on E10. We really only have 2 types of fuel over here. E10 (octane rating of 108) with up to 10% ethanol and Euro 95 with up to 5% ethanol (with an octane rating of 98). There is also Euro 98 but that’s only available at the big gas stations. We had Euro 101 (real racing fuel yo) but that has disappeared.
So the difference isn’t really that big but apparently E10 will ruin the engine. I’ve been contacting allot of dealers and what I now think is that the rubber fuel lines and the rubber seals of the injectors wil perish.
All the mechanics I spoke to advised to keep driving on E95 since is more fuel efficient and the engine stays happy longer.
I’ll be testing with my car how efficiënt it is with both types of fuel. The m300 gets around 17km per liter.
My mom drives allot and with the crazy fuel prices now she could safe allot of money by driving on E10. But if that means that the engine will give more problems I’m not sure if it’s worth it. And maybe if the E95 is really more fuel efficient the cost won’t add up against the negatives.
I’ll keep researching and if I find anything else I’ll be sure to post it here
I’ve been using e10 for a decade and can’t see how the higher octane would ruin anything. The cars I’ve used it in are all 90’s varieties. Yes, some here say it will ruin things. But I am yet to see anything beyond rumours. Simply don’t let it sit for a long time without draining things, I’m talking several weeks of sitting.
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I Agree with @Mr_Gormsby - the ‘compatibility’ issue is that the presence of Ethanol in E10 fuel has the potential to damage rubber fuel lines which were not originally specified for exposure to ethanol when the vehicle was made. Ethenol degrades rubber, ultimately leading to it cracking and potentially spraying pressurised fuel everywhere in a hot engine bay. The risk of this actually happening I would suggest is very small, especially if the vehicle is regularly inspected (e.g. MOT test or local equivalent)
The damage would only occur if the fuel is left to sit for a long period in the fuel lines, so regular use ought to be fine. If you wish to take action then all that is required is to replace any sections of rubber fuel hose with E10 compliant hose. The majority of the system will use metal lines I suspect, so it will only be small sections which need converting.
What you want to find out is the diameter of the fuel hose on the vehicle, then look for fuel hose that is ethanol resistant to Marine specification - ISO7840 A1 is what you want. If you really want to go belt&braces though look for certified E85 compliant fuel hose.
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