Wooki3 the L60 Handivan

If going to the trouble of making something custom, for hillclimb perhaps consider different engine mounts. The std ones in mine allowed huge amounts of tramp. They have since been solid filled by machining some aluminium to fill all the holes (did use Sikaflex as a short term solution) and plated the sides with large Delring spaces to stop side movement. Does it only get used for “the hill”? If so just solid mount - it will only be a pain at idle. If you have a lathe and welder. On my Datsun 1200 club car I made engine mounts out of these https://www.sparesbox.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/488x400/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/0/106300-a1639-1-a1639.jpg.

You might also drop a kilo of weight doing this.

Cheers Rob, I might do the solid conversion. The interior is gone, only a dash and two fixed back buckets will remain.
How solid are we talking?
I considered making the mounts from polyurethane HiAce rear leaf bushes.

1 Like

You could go metal on metal and have no earth issues. This could also make the engine and box a partial structural member. Something like your leaf bushes would all you to soften things up if needed by drilling out sections or buy two-part hobby rubber and mould your own with the hardness of softeness you want.

Also consider getting engine and box as far back as possible. Mine is back 25mm and could have gone another 15mm. Shaft angles would still be fine. May do this one day, as well as running it a bit lower.

1 Like

I ended up with Hyundai Lantra lower control arm bushes, $32 for the pair and it came with crush tubes. So far the mounts have only cost $32, the materials were either free or in the scrap bin.

3 Likes

There isn’t that kind of room with the EJ-DE in a L60.

2 Likes

It was time to clean the sub frame, the factory bushes are in excellent condition but I think it would be better to solid mount.

The new brakes pictured with the old. Looking forward to making these work with the HiJet struts.

4 Likes

Fitted the HiJet struts with L55/60 strut tops.

Here you can see a bearing in the strut top, seeing as they weren’t moving freely, they were sprayed with wd40 and will be packed with marine grease later.

Getting ready for a 4*100 mm pcd conversion. I will try and get a shot with the wheels fitted to show the little bit of poke

2 Likes

nice work man what wheels are you going for this I thought about hi-jet myself but for move (now that Im doing 4x100 on it) it would be too low I think.

My RS Watanabe’s pictured in post one.

1 Like

ooops I think I should have looked up first hahahaha!

1 Like

I decided to mock up the set up a little. I need to change the angle of the ball joint as well as push it about 10-15 mm further outwards to correct the positive camber issue but I also realise that this is at full droop of the suspension and will change upon compression of the set up.

2 Likes

With help from another mate we set about making the lower control arms camber adjustable.
Why not use camber bolts? Well basically I want to use the m12 bolts that hold the hub to the strut, to make steering arms that line up with the factory position. This also means that changing the Ackerman angle means we can tune a car’s suspension to different tracks/events.


3 Likes

I hope they are no Chinese rod ends. Big risk there if they are.

I bought them from CBC Bearings. They are made in Korea.

2 Likes

I will also point out at this time that these are not Teflon automotive heim joint and are regular heim joints. It is merely for the purpose of fabrication to buying the cheaper option and when the car hits the road and it feels okay, I will then upgrade them to the better quality heim joint.

2 Likes

As of yesterday I still am playing with the set up, I am about to solid mount the sub frame to the chassis. This will eliminate any play in the frame, and keep suspension geometry in a fixed point.
Next step will be back to modifying the lower control arms to add another 5 mm of adjustment.

2 Likes


Getting the basics done, the sub frame is actually in the correct position with the rubbers but I want more precision with suspension geometry.
My tig welder doesn’t like galvanised steel or whatever Daihatsu coated the frame in as the tungsten was deforming a bit with the tack welds. So I’ll blast the frame at work and bring it home to tig weld it neatly.

3 Likes


With the sub frame now solid mounted, attention can be turned to the lower control arms. Need to shorten them another 5 mm to get the more adjustment closer to 0° camber.

4 Likes

Not sure why you think you need zero camber. Plus you want the track as wide as possible. Strut front end needs neg 2.5 or more. I am at about neg 3.5 right now with about 4 deg castor. Zero for drag racing. For your little thing at at least start around neg 1.5.

2 Likes

Cheers Mr_Gormsby, I don’t want 0 camber at ride height, I am aiming for 0 camber on full suspension extension. Mainly so if I do manage to hit a bump and come down on the suspension that the wheels wont be in contact with the road with positive camber. If that make sense.

On that note, the sub frame and lower control arms are almost finished, next will be to make the steering arms (actually looking forward to pro ackerman angle steering arms).

1 Like