I am now sorting a sensor trigger wheel for a crank sensor so will be using a lathe to take the face off the crank pulley where an AC belt would go to put a trigger wheel on. Which will be next week’s job.
I have additionally fitted the 22mm ARB back on my car which should feel way better.
Furthermore, I have now completely overhauled and installed L6 move brakes on the front which should be way better.
These not only look better but should perform better. I went to install L6 move cylinders on the rear tho too match and saw they would need some work as the face pattern isn’t right. I’m unsure how others resolve this? Do they take the back plate from l6 drums too?
For the rears take the whole L2 unit off trailing arm (4 nut and bolts), then put the move whole unit on with those same 4 nuts/bolts. Cant just replace the drum or the internals.
Just the fronts definitely make a big difference. I mean they do most of the braking. When I have 4x100 swapped mira’s or moves and used sirion brakes they are awesome. I did do a 4x114.3 swap on an L200 also and they were fantastic with with swift front brakes. I wouldn’t be to concerned if you dont get to them.
Seems my ef-jl gearbox bolts straight onto the jb-jl as I hoped and expected. For future gearbox reliability, I hear k3 gearboxes are used on turbo ejs, would a k3 box fit onto a jb then? Thanks.
I’ve made my shopping list for my standalone JB monster now too.
Recently acquired a custom fabbed intake, exhaust manifolds and turbo from someone else project they never finished. As well as a set of wheels with semi slick tyres. Naturally, everything will need modifying to work.
New intake manifold, sits a lot lower and is bigger should hopefully help with flow some. Especially as it upgrades the throttle body to a charade throttle body. Gonna need to modify and reroute some of the coolant lines at the back of the engine to make it work though due to the compact size of this manifold and the size of the throttle body. Worst case I’ll resort to stock but would like to use the shiny bits.
This is where it gets interesting, this manifold should flow a lot better than the log one and this bigger turbo should have some good power behind it but this is at the price of space. these stick further out and most likely going to collide to the beam where the bonnet latch is mounted. So likely will have to work that and use bonnet pins. That’s if it even clears the bonnet. The bonnet will also be close and likely melted, I might see if I can make an extension bit which will move the turbo down and pull it back in towards the block to make it more compact again. This will mean oil filter changes will be a bitch, may look at a remote oil filter.
These wheels are nice and meaty, should provide plenty of grip but I’ll have to fit some flares for now. Couldn’t get any small enough but I’ll make do cause I hate the look of these anyways but I only want them for when I run these semi slick wheels. Will remove them for when I run regular wheels.
that’ll be a problem for later me anyways
