I am now sorting a sensor trigger wheel for a crank sensor so will be using a lathe to take the face off the crank pulley where an AC belt would go to put a trigger wheel on. Which will be next week’s job.
I have additionally fitted the 22mm ARB back on my car which should feel way better.
Furthermore, I have now completely overhauled and installed L6 move brakes on the front which should be way better.
These not only look better but should perform better. I went to install L6 move cylinders on the rear tho too match and saw they would need some work as the face pattern isn’t right. I’m unsure how others resolve this? Do they take the back plate from l6 drums too?
For the rears take the whole L2 unit off trailing arm (4 nut and bolts), then put the move whole unit on with those same 4 nuts/bolts. Cant just replace the drum or the internals.
Just the fronts definitely make a big difference. I mean they do most of the braking. When I have 4x100 swapped mira’s or moves and used sirion brakes they are awesome. I did do a 4x114.3 swap on an L200 also and they were fantastic with with swift front brakes. I wouldn’t be to concerned if you dont get to them.
Seems my ef-jl gearbox bolts straight onto the jb-jl as I hoped and expected. For future gearbox reliability, I hear k3 gearboxes are used on turbo ejs, would a k3 box fit onto a jb then? Thanks.
I’ve made my shopping list for my standalone JB monster now too.
Recently acquired a custom fabbed intake, exhaust manifolds and turbo from someone else project they never finished. As well as a set of wheels with semi slick tyres. Naturally, everything will need modifying to work.
New intake manifold, sits a lot lower and is bigger should hopefully help with flow some. Especially as it upgrades the throttle body to a charade throttle body. Gonna need to modify and reroute some of the coolant lines at the back of the engine to make it work though due to the compact size of this manifold and the size of the throttle body. Worst case I’ll resort to stock but would like to use the shiny bits.
This is where it gets interesting, this manifold should flow a lot better than the log one and this bigger turbo should have some good power behind it but this is at the price of space. these stick further out and most likely going to collide to the beam where the bonnet latch is mounted. So likely will have to work that and use bonnet pins. That’s if it even clears the bonnet. The bonnet will also be close and likely melted, I might see if I can make an extension bit which will move the turbo down and pull it back in towards the block to make it more compact again. This will mean oil filter changes will be a bitch, may look at a remote oil filter.
These wheels are nice and meaty, should provide plenty of grip but I’ll have to fit some flares for now. Couldn’t get any small enough but I’ll make do cause I hate the look of these anyways but I only want them for when I run these semi slick wheels. Will remove them for when I run regular wheels.
Hi all, slowly made some more progress, got my wheels painted and toyo R888s. Fitted. Went on my first test drive and she is a bit of a monster in the corners but suffers on bumps on rough roads as expected from this extremely stiff suspension.
I had to cut quite a lot from the arches to prevent rubbing but am now safe and it’s been a blast! Now I’m running big l600 move brakes in the front, I’ve found the bias being way too far forward and over using the fronts. Thus this weekend I’m installing a bias valve to hopefully maximise control over this.
This is in preparation for a future track day this month. On that end I was wondering if anyone has information on track pads that I can use, I’ve found rear shoes available but yet to find anything to fit the front. Below I’ve attached a screenshot from the project mu website of what pads I have but mu no longer support this pad.
I’ve found that on the Sirion M101, there are upgraded* pads by a company called Black Diamond. I bought a pair for the front, and found them better than the Jurid pads that were on there - though less good apparently than the OEM Rally 2 pads which were Ferodo DS2500s.
DS2500s are still available, but aren’t cheap.
I got my Black Diamond pads from here:
though I’m not affiliated with them in any way. They arrived promptly, were a reasonable price and fitted my brake calipers though.
It doesn’t look on first glance like they list pads specifically for the L600 move, but Daihatsu would have used off-the-shelf calipers for it I’m sure - so just need to work out the disc diameter and go from there I’d have thought?
That’s ideal, thank you. I’ll have a dig but they do appear good! My work colleagues swear against ebc (“cheese is better”) but they also say it beats TRW or blue print so.
I’m far from an expert, but what I understand is that EBC pads - especially the track orientated ones (yellowstuff/redstuff) need a LOT of heat in them, or they are very wooden. If you fit them to a road car, they simply never get hot enough for you to get the most from them.
This would be compounded on a L200 by lack of weight, meaning the discs & pads are unlikely to really heat up - especially during 90% of normal road driving - and you won’t get the best out of them.
From what I have read, this is the core of the ‘criticism’ of EBC pads - simply incorrect usage for the product’s intended use case.
The ‘Ultimax’ range is specifically intended as a daily street driving pad so I would expect that they would be performant for what you want - even on track given the lightweight of the Daihatsu.
Unfortunately after looking closely. Those aren’t the correct pads for what I need. EBC do sell the correct pads but only as ultimax which would be insufficient for track use.
Since they have the template, perhaps I could contact about getting some better pad material used.
that’ll be a problem for later me anyways
