Posted a few times now but feel its getting to the point of warranting a build post now. Main things worth mentioning is what’s currently on the car, to give context, its a genuine TRXX R2 but the EF-JL was not in the car and an ED20 was in place instead.
Zerone coilovers (came with the car)
165/55 FC RX7 wheels
Copen Master cylinder
ED-20 (the original EF-JL head was destroyed and unable to get another unfortunately), I have given the head a simple port and polish, managed to pickup some low end torque (I believe) and will get it on the dyno soon. Eventually hope to do an EJ swap and then perhaps bike engine down the line.
Some camber bolts to fit the wheels.
Big Ali radiator and custom air intake placing the intake to the left of the left of my front numberplate basically getting ram air.
Future plans are to 3D print some new bushes out TPU to replace and stiffen some corners up, also to test TPU capabilities. Further more will be getting a move break upgrade (I’m aware of the sirion → copen upgrade path but cannot justify/afford it currently but definitely will one day, I additionally really like my current 4x110 wheels.
I also competed in an auto test event on the weekend, managed to achieve 5th out of 20 cars being beaten only by cars with semi slicks so very happy.
Its extremely capable despite it having a fraction of the power of the other cars but small things that are needed is the suspension being fine tuned and the steering rack being upgraded like everyone says which leads me onto my question.
I have an EPS steering rack from the TRXX but currently run an L500 wiring loom cause of the ed-20 (will swap back to the original if I get hold of an EJ) and cause of that, I don’t have the wiring for the EPS system and nor do I care to wire it in. I’ve heard tails of the EPS TRXX rack being shorter so I’m curious if I could swap that rack in and run it without the EPS system hooked up. Does anyone know if that will be a problem?
Man the trxx sounds like a lot of fun and well done on 5th in the event. thats pretty impressive. I cant offer any advice on the rack as I have never had any experience with them. Hopefully someone else can help.
Thank you! Yeah I believe he contacted you about a shifter cable before he sold the car. I managed to get a cable in the end and fixed a few other bizarre problems it had too.
no worries! yeah he contacted me for that and surprisingly he asked for free shipping cost with lower price goods like i’m welfare. lol. luckily you’ve found it.
Ha! Yeah sounds like him. Yeah I’ve gotten creative to come up with low cost solutions so far. I know eventually I’ll have to contact you for something.
Update, got the car back in original livery with a black and white theme instead so looking very good. Additionally got some goodies from Japan including some black and white Mira floor mats, strut brace and an original steering wheel.
Only issue is this original steering wheel is great but it sits too far away from me and makes heel toe difficult as I can’t move my knee.
I would love to use this wheel but I need come up with a way to bring it closer to me. Ideally I’d like to adapt it to a boss kit so I can interchange it with some of my other wheels easily. I don’t suppose people have ideas on how I could potentially do that effectively.
Might for now make it a pretty shelf piece. I’ll swap back to my others. I’ll then swap my TRXX rack in and use it with no power steering and then I’ll figure out a good wheel size. There’s a really nice momo one that’s 350mm but I’m thinking 320mm will be a better size. Currently have a 280mm that is too small for comfort.
New development, competed in another AutoTest today. Managed to come 4th, bounced between first and second fastest for lap time but clipped a couple cones!
Upgrades have been made to the car, I pulled out my old steering rack and swapped in my TRXX rack bringing the turns down from 4 to 3.25 and them Fitted a quick release to the steering wheel.
When fitting the other rack, to help with clearance and since it was unnecessary, I did remove the motor on the rack and blanked it off which made installation possible without dropping the subframe entirely.
I replaced her o ring under the motor and used some rtv to seal the epicyclic gearbox inside up and prevent the oil leaking but works great! The tie rods need replacing so will do that soon and the rack feels more worn than the previous (because it is) but feels way better overall.
Next thing on my upgrade list is the drivetrain. Long term I wanna drop a jb-det in but for now doing what I can. I have the original TRXX gearbox and driveshafts and I know it’s supposed to be an LSD but from the jack shafts. Which makes me ponder, to use the LSD function, do I need to swap the entire transmission or just the drive shafts as clearly one is far easier than the other.
I’ve attached a picture of the driveshafts I have to aid.
the driverside shaft is only a jackshaft that is used to distribute the equal power to both sides of the car by giving equal length drive shafts to each side. It is not an LSD. It is similar but the LSD has like an outer casing and teeth in it also where in fits into the box. Use the jackshaft They are good.
Ahhhh okay I understand. That makes sense, alright I’ll probably fit that then. Needs a good clean up and new boots first. Thank you for the information.
Time for another post, rebuilt my jack shaft to install into my car but haven’t changed my mind and made a bit of impulse purchase but for big improvement. I’ve bought a jb-jl engine as it was going decently cheap and has the traits I was looking for.
So I’m going to start preparing the engine, my spare subframe and all the other bits to hopefully drop this lump in. The biggest worry is just the wiring to the body loom but that comes from my lack of experience! Doesn’t appear to be too many wires, just need to figure out which is for what.
currently going through my jb-jl for a standalone and so far I’ve seen that there appears to be a water temp sensor at the coolant inlet and outlet of the engine but I’ve now seen these two sensors at the back of the block, are these also water coolant sensors? Or is the one on the left coolant and the one on the right oil?
Atleast one will be coolant. the one closer to the gearbox side. Not sure on the other but looks like it. Some dais did have knock sensor’s also though. None of mine did, but they had the wire for them so no Idea what they look like.
Okay interesting, I plan to go speeduino so I doubt. I’ll use all of the sensors, only the crucial ones so I may just ignore some of them. Thank you though!
Agreed, one of them must feed the ECU for managing starting when cold so I won’t be surprised if the other manages the gauge. One exists past the thermostat so surely that one would read little till the thermostat opens.
. alright bud. but postage to UK is killing.
