660TRBO - Daily driven L2 turbo

Can’t believe how long it’s been since my last post… Lots happened last year, and the car had been put on the back burner, but I’ve been getting back into it lately.

I had both seatbelts redone by willshire motor trimmers here in Adelaide. It was about $20 more per belt to have the originals redone compared to buying aftermarket replacements. I opted for this so I didn’t need to go about making brackets for aftermarket belts. Both still retract well.

The high beams were an easy fix. One of the contacts was not reaching its point anymore. I cleaned them all and bent the bad one slightly so that it would contact when required. Fixed.

The car began having intermittent starting issues. I ended up finding one of the wires on the distributor plug had backed out and wasn’t contacting the other side. This took some time to figure out as the wires looked seated in the connector.

The car went through for its inspection in August and passed. I was pretty nervous, and I probably went a bit extreme on getting it as tidy and stock as possible, but hey… it was a good outcome! The inspector was so relaxed and genuinely loved cars, I was the last person of the day and we ended up talking cars for a little while which was good fun!

So with the defect cleared, let the fun begin… again!

I got all the turbo gear back on and running, although it was running rough. I ended up finding the earth wire for the map sensor had come loose on the ecu plugs. I fixed that, but it was still running poorly. I then tried a spare map sensor and that issue was sorted :+1:
Repinning into new connector

I was pretty stoked to have the car running again with the turbo setup back on it. It’s been a couple years!

Now, I have had parts to do a 4x100 conversion for a couple years, so with the car now defect free, on it all goes.

Most would know what parts go into the 4x100 swap as many have done it now. The only trouble I had was I bought aftermarket driveshafts which had 20 spline shafts. The internal cup for the jackshaft needs a 19 spline shaft. I was able to return the aftermarket one and found a second hand one from a l251 that I reconditioned. I also opted for m300 sirion front callipers as they share the same pad as copens, so more performance pad options!
Sirion drums on the back instead of going rear disk setup. I’ve seen most report that the handbrake didn’t work well after using applause rear disks. I wanted to keep a good working handbrake. Also I don’t think rear discs will be necessary for me.

Changing the stud pattern meant new wheels were needed. I picked up some 15x5 +45 enkei wheels, originally fitted to a Suzuki Ignis Sport. They are a good looking wheel and seem relatively lightweight. I have wanted a set of these for the car ever since I thought about doing the 4x100 swap, so I was pretty excited when I saw a set come up for sale!

I’m quite happy with how the car is progressing. I’m just wanting to use it to take to the odd weekend meet, track day and hill climb event.

I’m currently waiting to hear back about some tyres, and waiting for my winmax pads to arrive from compact motorsport.

Once I have those items I can get the car aligned and enjoy it again! I’m excited to see what it’s like with the better brakes and suspension. Once I’ve got the last few bits and have had a few drives I’ll be sure to report back. Thanks to anyone who is still tuning into this thread!


Love the Daihatsu centre caps on the Ignis wheels! What size tire are you looking at running on those wheels?

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Thanks, I was stoked that they fit. Just need to do something about the small gap around them.

I’m thinking of going for a ns2r in a 165/50r15 and 120tw. Going from 12s to 15s I’m hoping the car still drives ok - I thought perhaps keeping a smaller tyre in a stickier compound may be a good compromise


I have some copen wheels for my L251 Charade. Was thinking the same tyres, in 165/50 but 180TW. It will mostly be street driven with a few track days for fun. Hoping they are a good mix.


Tyres and brake pads received and fitted.

Nankang NS2Rs in 165/50R15 120TW, winmax competition pads in their W3 compound.

I learnt that the M3 Sirion calipers share the same pads as Suzuki Ignis sports. (As well as copens, but I already knew this) This opens up pad options a lot. If I knew this before, I probably wouldn’t have purchased the winmax pads, but I’m keen to see how they go.

Penrite racing brake fluid going in. I’ll finish bleeding the system tomorrow hopefully.

I’ve also found my front suspension top hats are stuffed. So I’ve purchased some adjustable camber tops. Waiting on them to arrive and will fit them before an alignment.

My list to do once the brakes are bled:

  • install camber tops
  • wheel alignment
  • add a muffler (too loud, I love it but I don’t want anymore defects)
  • new turbo intake and plumb back the catch can

It’s coming together, much slower than I hoped, but any progress is good. I bought a house last year and renovations have been taking up most of my time and money. Keen to get this all done so I can enjoy it again.


Good to know that the M3 brakes are the same as others. Sure means allot more options

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I think I had those pads on my GTVi Sirion. They were very dusty, a bit noisy. But on track day they were fantastic.

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I’m not looking forward to trying to keep the white wheels clean :sweat_smile: but good to hear you enjoyed their performance on track!

Sorry, I got myself confused. I had Ferodo race pads, not Winmax. You can disregard my message above.

I’ve been pretty unmotivated with car stuff. Just want to get this done so I can think about where I’m going to drive to instead of what needs doing on the car.

I have everything together, running M100 rear drums and M300 front brake setup (234mm discs, M3 calipers, winmax pads). I’m still running the L200 master cylinder which is 3/4” bore. The brakes are working, but the pedal engages so low. I’ve checked over the system a few times, and am wondering if I’m missing something. I’m hoping it’s not needing a bigger master cylinder (most don’t seem to need to when doing this brake upgrade?)

Any input is appreciated. I haven’t properly driven this since October 2020, keen to drive it again.

Also threw some gtvi skirts on :pinched_fingers:


Should not be the master cylinder. Bore and stroke is enough to run rear Applause calipers and front Copen calipers which area wise is greater than your setup. Have you had the master cyl off? Have you adjusted the pedals at all? You say “low pedal”, but is it a hard pedal? Are the rear drums adjust right up?

I’d put a brake line clamp onto a brake line at each corner. Do it one corner at a time and check the pedal. This will give you help you eliminate where the issue is.

Prob not this but a few times in the past thirty years I’ve come across either a broken brake or clutch pedal (yeah just recently fixed a broken clutch pedal on a Suzuki Swift - they parked it for five years thinking it needed a new clutch) or a loose/cracked pedal box.